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Surf session counter: 3918
Tuesday May 14 2013 08:22:33 PM
Created: Friday May 17 2013 08:22:49 PM
Modified: Friday May 17 2013 08:22:49 PM
Saturday May 4 2013 08:23:22 PM
Created: Friday May 17 2013 08:23:40 PM
Modified: Friday May 17 2013 08:23:40 PM
Friday May 3 2013 05:07:01 PM
Created: Saturday May 25 2013 05:08:03 PM
Modified: Saturday May 25 2013 05:08:03 PM
Wednesday May 1 2013 04:38:03 AM
Got there for the incoming tide (a few hours before high tide). I think I've discovered that I like it better than high or outgoing tide. More waves in many spots and less crowding in the popular spots.
I'm still learning so I managed to catch a few and get my feet on the board. Still not 100% upright yet. But determined... :)
Did get hit by a wall on my last wave. I had to spin fast or get clobbered as I saw it grow fast. Didn't quite have enough momentum and it tried to flip me. I managed to push up enough to keep on my board... but it ended up a beachbreak by the time it broke.. so no visibility.. just shit loads of sand. I managed to walk out of the water before the next break came and figured it was my sign to take a break. The whole patch sat flat after that one... so I called it a day. Only saw a few more rollers come in after that when I got changed and came back down to be a spectator.
Saw one guy get a good head gashing over in the Jetty. His head dented the crap out of the rail on his beautiful custom board. He was more worried about the board then the blood gushing down his head. lol Funny thing is I'd be exactly the same way about my board. ;)
Created: Thursday May 2 2013 04:55:09 AM
Modified: Thursday May 2 2013 04:55:09 AM
Wednesday May 1 2013 12:00:00 AM
Created: Saturday May 25 2013 05:03:50 PM
Modified: Saturday May 25 2013 05:05:13 PM
Monday April 22 2013 11:00:00 AM
Created: Tuesday April 23 2013 09:13:15 AM
Modified: Tuesday April 23 2013 09:13:15 AM
Sunday April 21 2013 07:30:00 AM
Created: Tuesday April 23 2013 09:12:10 AM
Modified: Tuesday April 23 2013 09:12:10 AM
Saturday April 20 2013 09:30:00 AM
Created: Tuesday April 23 2013 09:10:46 AM
Modified: Tuesday April 23 2013 09:10:46 AM
Monday April 1 2013 08:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday April 3 2013 12:07:15 PM
Modified: Wednesday April 3 2013 12:07:15 PM
Sunday March 31 2013 10:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday April 3 2013 12:05:43 PM
Modified: Wednesday April 3 2013 12:05:43 PM
Saturday March 30 2013 08:30:00 AM
Created: Wednesday April 3 2013 12:04:18 PM
Modified: Wednesday April 3 2013 12:04:18 PM
Saturday March 30 2013 07:22:53 AM
Created: Saturday March 30 2013 07:25:17 AM
Modified: Saturday March 30 2013 07:25:17 AM
Saturday March 9 2013 09:30:00 AM
I went to surf at low tide. I expected bad waves but they were really good !
I started on a left, very good, long and hollow (i got a barrel) but it was in the current. After one hour, I crossed the channel to surf the right : no current and very good turn. I got a good backside barrel (but I diden't get out)
Created: Saturday March 9 2013 06:23:14 PM
Modified: Saturday March 9 2013 06:23:36 PM
Thursday February 28 2013 09:00:00 AM
The swell was small and long. The tide was big (coef 100 ! ). But We found a small left that was very fun to surf ! It was in the current but it was rippable. after weeks of big swell, it was a real pleasure to surf like this. I put only 2 stars because it was other after 1 hour because of the tide.
Created: Sunday March 3 2013 09:55:08 AM
Modified: Sunday March 3 2013 09:55:08 AM
Wednesday February 20 2013 09:00:00 AM
The swell was annouced BIG (2.5m, 13s). Tibok thought it was possible to surf on a specific bank. I was not agree but I was wrong...
When we arrived, it seemed impossible to surf : too big, too much current, to much close outs. But a right seemed to break always at the same place.
We decided to jump into the water. It was huge and hard to pass outside. But we found really good waves to surf, big and hollow. Some ghost sets (3m...) washed from time to time the peak.It was a hard session.
Luke Egan has been cut by his fins : 7 points at the hospital !
I will never forget this session !
Created: Saturday February 23 2013 01:03:14 PM
Modified: Saturday February 23 2013 01:03:14 PM
Tuesday February 19 2013 02:00:00 PM
The swell was very long (12s period). Waves at le gurp were not big enough : only 1.20 - 1.50 m. But it was barreling !! Waves were very fast : the take off was hard because the peak was moving all the time. As they were nobody in the water, I made a mistake about the size and took a board too big : the 6'8". Nethermind it was ok and I got 2 big tubes. A good session.
Created: Tuesday February 19 2013 05:56:42 PM
Modified: Tuesday February 19 2013 05:57:32 PM
Saturday February 16 2013 02:00:00 PM
The tide was a little too low and the sandbanks not perfect. I got 2 left tubes ! That's why I put 3 stars. But except those 2 waves, it was not so good.
A good session though with the sun !
Created: Tuesday February 19 2013 05:52:18 PM
Modified: Tuesday February 19 2013 05:52:18 PM
Sunday February 3 2013 01:24:23 PM
Created: Wednesday February 13 2013 01:24:45 PM
Modified: Wednesday February 13 2013 01:24:45 PM
Saturday February 2 2013 01:23:27 PM
Created: Wednesday February 13 2013 01:24:00 PM
Modified: Wednesday February 13 2013 01:24:00 PM
Friday February 1 2013 01:22:26 PM
Created: Wednesday February 13 2013 01:23:08 PM
Modified: Wednesday February 13 2013 01:23:08 PM
Thursday January 31 2013 12:18:42 PM
Created: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:19:07 PM
Modified: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:19:07 PM
Wednesday January 30 2013 12:17:15 PM
Created: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:17:54 PM
Modified: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:17:54 PM
Tuesday January 29 2013 12:15:44 PM
Created: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:16:22 PM
Modified: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:16:22 PM
Monday January 28 2013 12:13:09 PM
Created: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:13:43 PM
Modified: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:16:39 PM
Sunday January 27 2013 12:11:44 PM
Created: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:12:22 PM
Modified: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:15:02 PM
Saturday January 26 2013 12:10:18 PM
Created: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:10:58 PM
Modified: Wednesday February 13 2013 12:15:19 PM
Friday January 25 2013 03:00:00 PM
The tide was high but I went to the south and found a very good peak. I was alone. I got very good hollow waves and a lot of rights which unusual on this spot.
The surf was 150m long with big carves.
A very good session !
Created: Saturday February 2 2013 10:48:24 AM
Modified: Saturday February 2 2013 10:48:24 AM
Tuesday January 22 2013 12:00:00 AM
Great spot!! In the summer is crowded, but if you wake up early there are few surfers outside.
This wave when is not so big is soooo fast. You gotta put all the speed you can to link the sessions.
I got a lot of waves passing through the rock they call "El Diamante" all the way to the beach.
Even when the locals said it was not so perfect, was way better then the best day in Rio de Janeiro, where I live.
I just returned from there and I miss the wave so much. I´ll try to go again next year, but after March.
Created: Thursday February 7 2013 06:55:13 PM
Modified: Thursday February 7 2013 06:55:13 PM
Thursday January 17 2013 03:00:00 PM
What a cold surprise, if seems that sans banks are back. I got fun walls and very waves. It was pretty to catch them. I got one good tube. In fact I took my biggest booties and it was hard to surf with them.
Nethermind, it was a really good session.
Created: Saturday January 19 2013 09:25:24 AM
Modified: Saturday January 19 2013 09:28:04 AM
Sunday January 6 2013 11:44:01 AM
Was stayin in Ballina about 15km from Enniscrone so decided to go check it out.. managed to get a good few waves.. nothing massive but some nice clean left handers up neat the harbour. Was good to surf somewhere new. wouldn't mind headin back again on a bigger day to see what it's like!
Created: Wednesday January 9 2013 11:48:19 AM
Modified: Wednesday January 9 2013 11:48:19 AM
Sunday January 6 2013 08:35:00 AM
Nearly same conditions as yesterday : I woke up early and arrived at the dawn. Long powerful waves were cranking :1.5m to 2.5m on the biggest ones.
I was alone and went to the south peak. In fact it was less perfect than yesterday but still very good !
I have a criteria : at the take-off, if you need to paddle down to take the wave, then it's big and hollow.
and my preffered one :
Created: Sunday January 6 2013 01:25:07 PM
Modified: Sunday January 6 2013 01:25:07 PM
Saturday January 5 2013 08:30:00 AM
I woke up at night and went to the north. I was not sure that it was the good plan. But when I arrived, I disovered perfect hollow waves whithout any surfers ! I jumped into the water and surf alone for 45mn.
I got maybe the longest waves I ever had in Bordeaux : 200m ! (long paddle back)/ After people came but it was not a problem. The most interesting sets took time to come in so I didn't took so many waves.
What a session !
I met Zitoune on the parking.
Created: Saturday January 5 2013 01:33:04 PM
Modified: Saturday January 5 2013 01:33:04 PM
Friday January 4 2013 11:00:00 AM
Sometimes every elements are here but it doesn't mean a good session. Long swell but too long (13s period), no wind. I went to Le grand Crohot and found perfect waves but they were unsurfable: the peak moved too much and it seem impossible to catch a wave.
I decided to go up north to Le Pin Sec. There was an incredible left, with a long hollow tube. I went at this peak with few other surfers. it was hard to catch waves but when you got it, it was superfast. My problem was a bodyboarder at the inside who tried to catch waves but refused them ! So it was very very frustrating as I let pass few bombs because of this... After the tide was too low...
Created: Saturday January 5 2013 01:26:02 PM
Modified: Saturday January 5 2013 01:33:18 PM
Friday December 28 2012 09:45:00 AM
After my failure at Nez Bayard, I cruised along the coast and went to Jx, a semi secret spot. I have heard about it since several years but never saw it worked. It was a big target for me. When I arrived, I discovered a fun pointbreak (in Normandy !). What a surprise !
The wave isn't very difficult and very fun with long walls. It breaks along the point. The landscape is great. Waves were only 1m but they were enjoyable. I think the wave can be very good at 1,5m height with a tube at the start.
I got plenty of waves as I was alone. My best memory this year in Normandy !
The video : https://vimeo.com/56500099
Yes it was a good session !
Created: Sunday December 30 2012 05:20:26 PM
Modified: Sunday December 30 2012 05:20:26 PM
Friday December 28 2012 09:00:00 AM
All the parameters seemed to ok to surf Nez Bayard : 2.5m W swell, 11s period, SW wind, right time for the tide.
Waves cranked on the reef : big 2m slab with rare opening tubes. it seemed good.
But it was just too big : waves closed out in the middle of the cove where it's usually the channel to paddle out to the reef.
I jumped into the water and I have been caught by this close out. In fact, it was not so difficult to paddle out but I felt a styrong current going out the cove. As I was alone, I didn't took the risk to have a problem and not being able to paddle back
I went out.
Created: Sunday December 30 2012 05:10:25 PM
Modified: Sunday December 30 2012 05:10:25 PM
Wednesday December 26 2012 02:30:00 PM
Waves were not very good. I got one or two nearly good, nothing more. Just good to be at home...
and a small video (ok it's not pipeline ) : https://vimeo.com/56510545
Created: Sunday December 30 2012 04:57:47 PM
Modified: Sunday December 30 2012 05:03:25 PM
Tuesday December 25 2012 02:00:00 PM
Waves were finally bigger than expected there. Got few fun ones. After I went to Dielette, expecting the spot working because of the swell but it didn't.
Check the small video : https://vimeo.com/56295267
Created: Sunday December 30 2012 05:01:25 PM
Modified: Sunday December 30 2012 05:01:25 PM
Sunday December 23 2012 04:22:00 PM
2 years after my last session here, the wave started to break again. We were 2 surfers in the water. Waves weren't completely regular but it was more than surfable. I got a really good one next to the rocks.?
The video is here : https://vimeo.com/56238702
Created: Monday December 24 2012 04:24:50 PM
Modified: Monday December 24 2012 04:29:18 PM
Wednesday December 19 2012 06:25:56 AM
Went for a swim here this morning - no waves, but tried to body surf the 1ft shore-break. Ate sand. Nice swim, shame no waves though !!
Created: Wednesday December 19 2012 12:57:59 PM
Modified: Wednesday December 19 2012 12:57:59 PM
Wednesday December 12 2012 02:45:00 PM
The swell was very long : 13s ! and the weather was cold : only 2°C in the afternoon.
I managed to take waves but only few of them were good. It was mostly close outs. Nut nethermind, it was a good session. got 5 really good ones.
Created: Wednesday December 12 2012 08:50:35 PM
Modified: Wednesday December 12 2012 08:50:35 PM
Saturday December 1 2012 09:00:00 AM
It was very very cold. With Loig, we were stuck in the fog. We jumped into the water and discovered powerful waves. Hard to take, fast to surf.
It was so cold that the waves literally smoked !
I took off on a long left : I avoid the tube but the run was so fast ! My best wave.
Then the fog due to the cold came in : it was very hard to paddle baxk as I couldn't see at more than 10m.
After 1h30, the size of swell increased. After a long right, I didn't been able to paddle back and went out. Lack of luck : 15mn after, the fog diseapeared.
Created: Wednesday December 12 2012 08:47:16 PM
Modified: Wednesday December 12 2012 08:57:52 PM
Sunday November 25 2012 04:15:00 PM
I came back here : the swello was bigger than yesterday and the waves seemed less organized. but they were better.
I got good long walls with two really good ones : big carves and top turns at full speed.
Enough to say that the winter has nearly began
Created: Sunday November 25 2012 08:26:25 PM
Modified: Sunday November 25 2012 08:26:25 PM
Saturday November 24 2012 09:40:00 AM
I found (again) Tibok and Dahomey. I got fun waves, hard to take. Only few of them were good. I got fun carves. It was a good session.
Created: Sunday November 25 2012 08:23:31 PM
Modified: Sunday November 25 2012 08:23:31 PM
Saturday November 10 2012 06:13:20 AM
People, please start making an effort to get out of the way when people are up and riding waves. This starts before the wave is 10 or 20 feet from you. You should be able to tell long before the wave gets to you whether you should go into the whitewater or over the shoulder away to the left of the curl on a right breaking wave. If you can't get clear of the rider's path, and the rideable part of the breaking face, you should be paddling into the whitewater. If you are paddling to the shoulder, you should be paddling AWAY from the rider so that you don't interfere with the rider's cutback, or force them to slow down.
When you position yourself in the water, waiting for waves, if the surfer to your left is better than you, you're in the wrong spot. Skilled surfers sit as deep as their ability allows them to sit without ruining waves for others. If you're less skilled than the surfer to your left, all you're likely doing is paddling for a bunch of waves you don't know yourself whether you'll make (because your ability level's not good) and making life miserable for surfers who would be allowing waves to pass to you if you would just be respectful and sit to their left. You can't get down the line as fast as a surfer with a better skill level than you, and that means you really have no business sitting deeper than them. It's a kook move to even try, so don't be surprised when they guy who surfs pretty well that you've been trying to sit inside of all days yells at you the first chance he gets.
When you surf with consideration for others, everybody gets more waves, especially you if you're not as good as others in the line-up. It's been way out of hand for years, but lately it's been really, really, really bad.
Created: Saturday November 10 2012 06:15:43 AM
Modified: Saturday November 10 2012 06:15:43 AM
Saturday November 10 2012 02:00:00 AM
Created: Saturday November 10 2012 04:46:57 PM
Modified: Saturday November 10 2012 04:46:57 PM
Wednesday November 7 2012 09:30:00 AM
I went to Grand Crohat because I was in the hurry and believed that the last big swells had changed the sandbanks. But they didn't changed !
Nethermind, I found Tibok and Zitoune in the water...again...
I got really good ones espacielly a left tube (hollow, fast, go in - go out)
Created: Saturday November 10 2012 05:23:27 PM
Modified: Saturday November 10 2012 05:23:27 PM
Sunday November 4 2012 09:56:12 PM
All time uncrowded session at the cave. Surf was getting bigger to the point where my 5 '11 stopped working.All the local boys were super cool. I loved Maui so much I am now back in California depressed because I scored amazing surf for 3 days at the Bay. The surf is cold, gutless, and small in Cali. I see why surfers from Maui hate California. I wish I had a wave like this in San Clemente. I wish I could live on Maui!
Created: Thursday November 8 2012 10:03:01 PM
Modified: Thursday November 8 2012 10:03:01 PM
Saturday November 3 2012 02:00:00 PM
It was my first session on this semi secret spot. Actually, the surf and this spot are pretty bad but the landscape and the access were so beautiful that I was very happy to surf here. Pierre was with me.
The spot has no defined peaks and waves were mostly closed out.
The video :
Created: Tuesday November 6 2012 10:03:05 PM
Modified: Tuesday November 6 2012 10:09:55 PM
Thursday November 1 2012 04:00:00 PM
It was my second session on the same spot but at high tide. We were only two ! I got fun waves, less fast than the morning but the take off was hardier a, with the tide, you had to take off nearly on the rocks then turn...
It was really enjoyable
Created: Tuesday November 6 2012 09:30:57 PM
Modified: Tuesday November 6 2012 09:30:57 PM
Thursday November 1 2012 10:30:00 AM
This spot starts to work with the incoming 4m swell. On the parking, I found Tibok ! What a surprise... We were only 5 surfers in the water which is unusual for this spot.
Waves were breaking at low tide just on the rocks and my surfboard touched the rocks several times. The surf was good, not very high but good.
The video : http://youtu.be/7Fafq39CTTI
Created: Tuesday November 6 2012 09:10:29 PM
Modified: Tuesday November 6 2012 09:20:13 PM