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Surf session counter: 3839
Tuesday October 9 2007 04:30:08 PM
Created: Tuesday October 9 2007 04:30:10 PM
Modified: Tuesday October 9 2007 04:30:10 PM
Tuesday October 9 2007 02:00:00 AM
I can't believe that now, and for the rest of my life, I can say I rode pipeline.
Sure, it wasn't epic, but it was great. 5-7ft and an occasional higher set made for a GREAT introduction! A little mushy in the beginning with a fat hight tide, but as the tide went down, things picked up!
I am stoked, I did it!
Created: Tuesday October 9 2007 08:31:02 AM
Modified: Tuesday October 9 2007 08:31:02 AM
Monday October 8 2007 04:56:17 PM
Created: Sunday October 14 2007 11:01:40 PM
Modified: Sunday October 14 2007 11:07:45 PM
Monday October 8 2007 12:00:00 PM
2 - 3 ft.... where are the waves???
Created: Tuesday October 16 2007 09:07:17 AM
Modified: Tuesday October 16 2007 09:07:17 AM
Monday October 8 2007 10:00:00 AM
No tan bueno como el día anterior.
Provamos ala moana, pero nada, no corría.
Created: Tuesday October 9 2007 01:28:22 AM
Modified: Tuesday October 9 2007 01:28:22 AM
Sunday October 7 2007 08:36:47 PM
Fun session.....had the place to myself.....water still warm... thought I saw Thrasher Shark in the zone..... wasnt a dolphin, thats fer sure......walked back towards the Rudder Room and caught Little Sunset going-off......4-6' pretty fun....gotta go to work. Maybe manana?????
Created: Sunday October 7 2007 08:40:49 PM
Modified: Sunday October 7 2007 08:47:24 PM
Sunday October 7 2007 10:00:00 AM
Well, as Yann said, this session was really bad. The swell was there but sandbanks not.
The first hour, I only took one right. The rest of the time, just waiting for a non-closing swell. beurk! Finally, we decided to go 100m north and take the small second-waves after the main swell crash on the main sandbank. It was much funny, I took several small waves during the last 30 min.
Then Olivier asked me if I had already seen a road deer swimming in the ocean... I said, What??? And it was true, something looking as a roe deer or a doe was swept along by the current (a baïne as we called them here). After some seconds, I decided to reach the animal and help him not to swim against the current but bypass the current by swimming side to the shore for a few meters, then returning to the shore more easily.
I join the animal very quickly, the current was on my side. He was certainly asking himself was was this stange animal on this white wooden stick :) I force him swimming in the good direction, then we reached the beach. As many people was interested by the scene, the animal was more scary by those pople than the waves (sic!) and preferred to jumb back into the waves.
This time, Yann helped me (he was swimming fast!!!). We forced him to return to the beach a second time, and said to everyone to step back. He was so exhausted that one more wave would kill him. He stayed closed to the shorebreak, so I had to carry him out... He was howling without beeing able to move. Really too tired to move forward.
He just walked 20m and laied down for some rest. We changed our clothes and 30min later, he went away into the dunes. Hope he will survive his surf session...
Incredible surf session !
Created: Monday October 8 2007 06:36:50 PM
Modified: Monday October 15 2007 10:12:14 PM
Sunday October 7 2007 09:00:00 AM
ARGHH ! still the same story: a beautiful swell, no much wind BUT still no sandbanks, still no waves to surf ! it was a very frustating session.
But this session was UNBELIVEABLE on one point.
Did you ever surf with dolphins ? yes ? me too...
Did you ever surf with sharks ? yes ? me too...
Did you ever surf with sea turtles ? yes ? me too...
Did you ever surf with dolphins ? yes ? me too...
Did you ever surf with seals ? yes ? me too...
Did you ever surf with tourists ? yes ? me too...
Did you ever surf with Kelly Slater ? yes ? me too...
Created: Sunday October 7 2007 03:43:49 PM
Modified: Wednesday October 10 2007 10:41:46 AM
Sunday October 7 2007 07:00:00 AM
Got on my feet this session. Still haven't surfed yet. Felt good, feel posative about next week.
Created: Tuesday October 9 2007 03:11:46 PM
Modified: Tuesday October 9 2007 03:11:46 PM
Sunday October 7 2007 01:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday October 31 2007 07:34:26 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 31 2007 07:34:26 AM
Saturday October 6 2007 01:00:00 PM
El regreso después de mucho tiempo.
Formamos una buena comitiva y salimos todos en busca del reencuentro.
Created: Sunday October 7 2007 03:04:07 AM
Modified: Sunday October 7 2007 03:04:07 AM
Saturday October 6 2007 11:00:00 AM
2 ft... :(
Created: Tuesday October 16 2007 09:05:17 AM
Modified: Tuesday October 16 2007 09:05:17 AM
Saturday October 6 2007 09:30:00 AM
the swell had picked up since yesterday and the waves were bigger. pretty strong winds though. good waves, and adam and i got a couple that went all the way along the beach. we thought it was gonna be the same as yesterday so dad brought the longboard over and mum brought the bodyboard. but it was extermely hard getting outside, specially for dad because he had the long board. he was only out for about ten minutes, then got caught inside and went in. there was no crowds because of ramadan. the highlight of the session for me was making two off-the-lips.
Created: Sunday October 7 2007 02:32:23 AM
Modified: Sunday October 7 2007 02:32:23 AM
Saturday October 6 2007 07:05:28 AM
Created: Sunday October 14 2007 11:07:12 PM
Modified: Sunday October 14 2007 11:07:12 PM
Friday October 5 2007 12:30:00 PM
In the water... Mick Fanning, Phil McDonald...
Created: Tuesday October 16 2007 09:02:58 AM
Modified: Tuesday October 16 2007 09:02:58 AM
Friday October 5 2007 09:00:00 AM
one of the smallest days ive had in male. fun waves though, and some nice lefts. no one else out because of ramadan.
Created: Sunday October 7 2007 02:20:30 AM
Modified: Sunday October 7 2007 02:34:22 AM
Thursday October 4 2007 12:30:00 PM
a bit of crowd for so few waves....
Created: Friday October 5 2007 08:53:28 AM
Modified: Friday October 5 2007 08:53:28 AM
Wednesday October 3 2007 12:20:00 PM
crap waves biggest sets were knee high.
Created: Wednesday October 3 2007 09:01:21 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 3 2007 09:01:21 AM
Wednesday October 3 2007 09:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday October 31 2007 07:47:54 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 31 2007 07:47:54 AM
Wednesday October 3 2007 07:00:00 AM
nice fun waves. peaking at the same place and making nice rights. also made some good lefts. small but great session
Created: Wednesday October 3 2007 08:54:37 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 3 2007 09:02:06 AM
Monday October 1 2007 09:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday October 31 2007 07:20:18 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 31 2007 07:20:18 AM
Monday October 1 2007 04:30:00 AM
onshore winds and low tide meant the waves weren't that good. it was almost impossible to catch waves because it was so ledgey.
Created: Wednesday October 3 2007 01:41:10 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 3 2007 01:41:10 AM
Sunday September 30 2007 06:30:00 PM
Created: Wednesday October 3 2007 09:52:05 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 3 2007 09:52:05 AM
Sunday September 30 2007 11:40:00 AM
waves were all closing out at the start but then the swell dropped a tiny bit and the waves became good.
Created: Sunday September 30 2007 10:11:28 AM
Modified: Sunday September 30 2007 10:11:28 AM
Sunday September 30 2007 07:00:00 AM
Created: Friday October 5 2007 08:53:19 PM
Modified: Friday October 5 2007 08:53:19 PM
Sunday September 30 2007 02:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday October 31 2007 07:43:46 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 31 2007 07:43:46 AM
Saturday September 29 2007 05:30:00 PM
Created: Wednesday October 3 2007 09:48:54 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 3 2007 09:48:54 AM
Saturday September 29 2007 11:15:00 AM
Tide too high really, bit cleaner on the inside...
Created: Monday October 1 2007 01:42:11 PM
Modified: Monday October 1 2007 01:42:11 PM
Saturday September 29 2007 11:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday October 3 2007 03:58:36 PM
Modified: Wednesday October 3 2007 03:58:36 PM
Saturday September 29 2007 10:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday October 3 2007 03:54:41 PM
Modified: Wednesday October 3 2007 03:54:41 PM
Saturday September 29 2007 09:00:00 AM
The swell was perfect, yes perfect. The wind was perfect. But there wan't any waves to surf ! it was a one kilometer close-out. I was very desappointed.
Created: Sunday October 7 2007 03:33:56 PM
Modified: Sunday October 7 2007 03:33:56 PM
Saturday September 29 2007 07:00:00 AM
Board paddled fine. Tried to get up 4 times and fell each time. Trying to get my timing back.
Created: Friday October 5 2007 04:13:09 PM
Modified: Friday October 5 2007 04:13:09 PM
Saturday September 29 2007 12:00:00 AM
Hit the water with my brother Adam at 9o'clock. waves were nice and clean, sets about 5-7ft and making nice waves. Surfed till 11, then we went in for a quick break (bout 20mins) then went out again. waves had picked up and were about 7 ft. Great fun for about 1 hour, then the swell dropped off and the sets went down to about 2-4ft. so, took the long board out and got a few waves, then wnt in at 2pm. Great day.
Created: Friday September 28 2007 02:55:24 PM
Modified: Wednesday October 3 2007 08:58:49 AM
Friday September 28 2007 10:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday October 31 2007 07:39:50 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 31 2007 07:39:50 AM
Friday September 28 2007 09:00:00 AM
It was nice and sunny and had consistant 2ft sets at the corner and the break just next to it. the break next to the wall was bigger,faster and hollower.
Created: Saturday September 29 2007 01:19:59 AM
Modified: Saturday September 29 2007 01:19:59 AM
Tuesday September 25 2007 04:55:54 PM
Fall came in on the wings of a fast mover (the Boeing C17 guys over in Long Beach were doing some delam repair on a B-1 bomber ... took off on full after-burners and did a low, slow flyby ... what a hell of a racket ... every car alarm within 10 blocks went off) anyway temp dropped from an all time August record of 113 F at the beach to 68F and water temps dove from 72F to 58F!
Fun sessions the past few weeks among the frolicking sting rays of breeding season ... some nasty hits. Tony still has an open sore on the side of his foot from a week ago ... nurse, nurse it hurts! My buddy "Bruce" has never had the pleasure ... yet! He trys to keep his feet from touching the bottom ... at all times!
Ruby Tuesday: September 25th
Dawn patrol this morning ... perfect conditions ... very slight offshore wind ... clear, pale blue sky with an orange and yellow sun just peaking over the Sana Anna mountains at 6.15AM. The mixed south and west swells were smaller than yesterday's sometimes overhead sets ... about chest to head high ... but much cleaner ... tide was a little high (if we had had a early morning minus tide with the incoming push of a mid morning high of say 5 feet it would have been epic) but still super.
Just three of us sitting outside of Crabs ... taking off on the other side of the peak, through the bowl to the inside wall. Tom scored an overhead set wave ... deep, no paddle take off ... under the bowl ... racing across the wall in perfect trim on the high line. Bob snagged a clean head high wall and held a perfect cheater five all the way, with the rising sun back lighting the spray. I took off steep & deep on my Super Fish crouched under the bowl and hit the shoulder at max speed ... Tom had just taken off saw me coming and pulled out ... leaving me a perfect wall to set up: smack, smack, smack's off the lip.
The crew sitting inside were impressed ... you guys all get perfect 10's!
Yesterday was bigger and Bruce was king ... taking off on overhead, bumpy shifting peaks and yelling ... watch out coming through!
August:Yes you can ... nose ride a Fish! Was out surfing the dawn patrol on the sandbar at the San Gabriel river mouth by Seal Beach (Ray Bay) the past week riding my MR design 7'2" "Super Fish". Knee to waist with occasional chest or better set waves ... glassy summer conditions, 70F air ... 70F water.
Anyway was doing the short board snap snap pivots coming easy off the bottom and setting up a big smack off the top when a knee high long glass wall popped up across the inside bar ... why not go high, step up and cheater five like my 9' 0" ... yeah it worked!
Once I discovered it would work ... fun fun fun .... of course you can't stay up there as long.
Best wave of the week ... was sitting outside with a couple of buddies by Cuda's (North Wall) when the wave of the day (clean head high peak) rolled through ... party wave .... everyone paddled ... I yelled going left ... Tony who was on the other side went right leaving my buddy River Bob the meat in the sandwich.
Bob took off right ... saw Tony and changed his mind ... my Fish has a tendency to hang high and needs a steeper face to drop in so Bob was already at the bottom of the trough when I dropped down at max speed .... saw him out of the corner of mr eye and launched out and up like a rocket coming up in the perfect spot right under the lip ... a couple of pumps and a big arc cutback as the wave hit deeper water .... Bob was left to get swallowed by white water ...
"Nice bottom turn" he said "was following your track but did'nt quite make the section"!
Sorry Charlie ....
Created: Thursday September 20 2007 04:58:58 PM
Modified: Wednesday September 26 2007 06:09:01 AM
Monday September 24 2007 06:13:50 PM
Hit the water at 5:15 - Still dark. It was a bit bigger than I anticipated, but still not the 4-6 that Surflie.com was hyping. Got two good waves, snapped my leash, and went to get another from the car. When I got back, all of Malibu had arrived, with their friends.
Fortunately, it was breaking outside the rock, so they were more like buoys than competitors. There was one guy on the inside though that didn't seem to understand etiquette (there's always at least one here!). However, he did understand a few buckets of water in the face.
It was good to see a couple other regulars there. It's always nice to surf with guys who know how to lineup and share.
Lotsa fun! Sea you out there!
Created: Wednesday September 26 2007 06:25:27 PM
Modified: Wednesday September 26 2007 06:25:27 PM
Monday September 24 2007 01:08:26 AM
insane as always big crowd though just got to go deep and risk it
Created: Monday September 24 2007 01:10:43 AM
Modified: Monday September 24 2007 01:10:43 AM
Sunday September 23 2007 09:00:00 AM
It was not as big as we were expected. We should have go to Lacanau. Nevermind, it was a good-small-fun session.I take some fun small and hollow waves (lefts).
Created: Sunday September 23 2007 03:51:02 PM
Modified: Sunday September 23 2007 03:51:02 PM
Saturday September 22 2007 09:00:00 AM
Created: Tuesday September 25 2007 09:09:30 PM
Modified: Tuesday September 25 2007 09:09:30 PM
Friday September 21 2007 07:53:04 PM
Surf spot: ,
Caught Dean early and surfed all day. Tad had the ski and he was running Guyo Pinto to the boys so we didn't have to paddle in, AN EPIC SESSION. On cane swells like Dean Cannons is super ledgy and you can get super worked, but if Cannon's is maxed then don't worry there are 3 other spots that light up, Sandbritches, Z-flys and A-Bombs so there's plenty of room for everyone. Nice to see this spot get some recognition, very fickle but it goes off when you can catch it. Locals are there really old dudes from way back, very mellow except for Tony C, he's a real prick and will pull your leash and splash water in your face when you go for the big sliders, he's usually down at Sandbritches when it's going off, best to avoid him. Rob is cool though.
Created: Wednesday June 25 2008 08:04:07 PM
Modified: Wednesday June 25 2008 08:04:07 PM
Friday September 21 2007 10:07:48 AM
Created: Saturday January 5 2008 10:09:48 AM
Modified: Saturday January 5 2008 10:09:48 AM