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Surf session counter: 3669
Thursday April 19 2007 03:26:36 AM
Surf spot: Lescuale's House, France
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday April 19 2007 03:34:08 AM
Modified: Thursday April 19 2007 03:34:08 AM
Hits: 1301
Thursday April 19 2007 12:58:55 AM
Surf spot: Blackies, United States of America
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday April 19 2007 12:59:37 AM
Modified: Thursday April 19 2007 12:59:37 AM
Hits: 736
Wednesday April 18 2007 06:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Big Bay, South Africa
Description:
This was the craziest surf session ever. Ernst & I went out, just after I bought my new board. We were also the only "dumb" people in the water, apart from a few kite-surfers. Needless to say, our session wasn't very long, and it must've been the worst ever!
Buddies:
Created: Saturday April 21 2007 10:42:02 PM
Modified: Saturday April 21 2007 10:42:02 PM
Hits: 2716
Wednesday April 18 2007 10:25:45 AM
Surf spot: Kewalo's, United States of America
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday November 1 2007 10:26:52 AM
Modified: Thursday November 1 2007 10:26:52 AM
Hits: 929
Tuesday April 17 2007 08:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Brighton Beach, Australia
Description:
Alot of effort just to blog a sesh at Brighton, but it deserves special mention cos it's been that long since good waves have hit Perth!!!
Had the morning off work so I was looking foward to this day for a few days. All the reports looked alright - variable winds ahead of strong nor-westers, so I figured it might only be good for a little while in the morn. Rocked into the carpark to be greeted with a glassy ocean and head-high, moderately peaky waves. Ended up staying offshore for 3 hours or so... good fun!
Buddies:
Created: Thursday April 19 2007 01:33:16 PM
Modified: Thursday April 19 2007 01:33:16 PM
Hits: 1120
Monday April 16 2007 02:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Anse Bertrand, Guadeloupe
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 16 2007 02:19:00 PM
Modified: Monday April 16 2007 02:19:00 PM
Hits: 3362
Monday April 16 2007 01:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Carcavelos, Portugal
Description:
maré demasiado cheia
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday April 18 2007 04:37:01 PM
Modified: Wednesday April 18 2007 04:37:01 PM
Hits: 793
Monday April 16 2007 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Praia Mole, Brazil
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday April 17 2007 04:53:54 AM
Modified: Tuesday April 17 2007 04:53:54 AM
Hits: 745
Sunday April 15 2007 05:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Praia Mole, Brazil
Description:
With Vanderlei!
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 16 2007 12:29:59 AM
Modified: Monday April 16 2007 12:29:59 AM
Hits: 635
Sunday April 15 2007 04:17:30 PM
Surf spot: Kuta Beach, Indonesia
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday April 15 2007 04:22:25 PM
Modified: Sunday April 15 2007 04:22:25 PM
Hits: 3468
Sunday April 15 2007 09:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Carcavelos, Portugal
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday April 18 2007 04:34:45 PM
Modified: Wednesday April 18 2007 04:34:45 PM
Hits: 593
Sunday April 15 2007 07:37:48 AM
Surf spot: Suckouts, United States of America
Description:
Arrived about 6:30a.m. In the water by 7:00. Waited between sets and had a long, but uneventful paddle out, used the channel north of the two main peaks. Sets of overhead plus rolled through every 10 min or so. Saw several magazine quality barrels, rode 7 or 8 waves, great drop in from the outside, about a 49 yard ride and then the wave lost it's juice. Overall, a great day, definitely worth the price of admission.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday April 15 2007 07:45:13 AM
Modified: Sunday April 15 2007 07:45:13 AM
Hits: 1772
Sunday April 15 2007 04:21:10 AM
Surf spot: South Beach, United States of America
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday April 24 2007 04:35:12 AM
Modified: Tuesday April 24 2007 04:35:12 AM
Hits: 1291
Saturday April 14 2007 11:00:00 AM
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday April 18 2007 04:31:13 PM
Modified: Wednesday April 18 2007 04:31:13 PM
Hits: 838
Saturday April 14 2007 07:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Lacanau Supersud, France
Description:
I was a little disappointed. The swell raised up during the night but it was not as clean as yesterday. it was not the best time to have a session as it was the low tide. Netherless, I caught few good ones. I started on the same sandbank than yesterday but I finally moved to a better right.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday April 15 2007 01:23:50 PM
Modified: Sunday April 15 2007 01:23:50 PM
Hits: 908
Friday April 13 2007 06:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Lacanau Supersud, France
Description:
HAAAAA ! I waited for this session all the day. I went only at the end of the day to be sure that this spot will be uncrowded. The waves were just perfect: the swell rise up during the day. The lefts were more than 100m with no section but just a long rippable wall... It was not tubular but it was hollow enough to have plenty of speed.
The sea looked like oil, we were only 4 surfers at the end with to much waves to be able to take them all. Unfortunately, I don't have any photos (I made a mistake with my camera)
Buddies:
Created: Sunday April 15 2007 11:57:24 AM
Modified: Sunday April 15 2007 11:57:24 AM
Hits: 1080
Friday April 13 2007 09:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Lacanau Supersud, France
Description:
Whooo, It was a superfun session at Supersud. The waves were perfect but not very hollow. Thanks to my fish, It was rippable.
Some photos of this morning session
Buddies:
Created: Sunday April 15 2007 11:52:26 AM
Modified: Friday April 20 2007 03:58:20 PM
Hits: 929
Thursday April 12 2007 04:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Floreat Groyne, Australia
Description:
It was summer so like always there was f*ck all swell. For some reason (proably global warming) a large storm was brewing nd it was bringing in a fairly sizeable cold front. We figured that we only had 2-4 days before it cleared up. So we went and started checking evry where for surf. There was some fairly decent surf coming in especialy around the reefs (toms especialy) but with winds of up o 30 knots it was totaly blown out. After missing out on the first day nd the end of the storm now in sight we decided that we had to get a surf in.
The winds where going crossshore right from the word go so we rode down to the 3rd groin. Having never seen another surfer out there (due to the shalowness of the banks) we were a bit skeptical about wether we could make it. In the end we went out got pitted few times but once the crowds started coming in we decided that it wasent worth risking snapping our sticks. After that we went and surfed basicaly anything that we could possibly find in the end we tried for a little wave at bennion (boogabox) but the tides where not right nd the reef kept popin up halfway as u were shaked. Even though we still stayed out 4 a little while until some unluck c*nt didnt pll out in time nd snapped his brand new stick. After that we decided to save our sticks nd move on. We went to get lunch nd by the time we where back the winds had massivly picked up back arond to 30 knots again.
Later that day we were walking down past the groin only to find that it was absoltutly going off. We ran back got our boards nd went straight out. There was only 4 others ot but with us that made 8 nd for the groin that can be prety crowded as it only has one peak to take of on. But it didnt matter cos the sets where very regular and very good. Floreate is the perfect spot for filming 2 cos u just stand on the groin nd get the whole wave. The wave itself was perfect. The suprisingly powerfull peak started 5 - 10 metres out from the groin so ud have to eifer take off on an angle nd risk it over the falls or go for a very sketcy bottom trn. Once you made the take you could either pull into a barrel or just get som speed for the nxt section where the wave actually never broke(the break rip). Once out of the barrel u normally had 3-4 sections that you could rip on then the wave would give u this section to bust an air on if you had the skill (and Balls) before it washed basically onto the shore. u then just cold jump back into the break rip and paddle out with ease. This day was absoltly epic as we got som epic footage and a great surf to start of summer with.
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday February 7 2007 08:58:50 AM
Modified: Saturday February 10 2007 01:09:07 AM
Hits: 1384
Thursday April 12 2007 09:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Praia Mole, Brazil
Description:
Tubes and airs!! :D
Buddies:
Created: Friday April 13 2007 06:13:44 PM
Modified: Friday April 13 2007 06:13:44 PM
Hits: 661
Thursday April 12 2007 09:00:00 AM
Description:
The weather was perfect: sunny with a completely glassy sea. The waves were really small: only 2 feet. Hopefully I hada longboard. As the small waves were absolutely perfect, the session was good and funny.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday April 15 2007 11:46:39 AM
Modified: Sunday April 15 2007 11:46:39 AM
Hits: 760
Wednesday April 11 2007 11:00:00 AM
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday April 12 2007 03:56:53 AM
Modified: Thursday April 12 2007 03:56:53 AM
Hits: 710
Wednesday April 11 2007 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Anse à la Bouelle, Guadeloupe
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 16 2007 02:27:50 PM
Modified: Monday April 16 2007 02:27:50 PM
Hits: 2964
Wednesday April 11 2007 08:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Malibu, United States of America
Description:
Malibu has sand and cobblestone bottom, three point breaks, a pier, a creek and a lagoon. The outer point has kelp beds and is a hard breaking fast tube that grinds over the reef. The middle break is a peak than runs into a bowl that runs into a boomerang that runs into a long , long wall ... half way to the pier.
We arrive ... its 8:30AM and its GOING OFF! (See Boo Hoo surf trip.)
You only make one in three waves from either the outside or the middle break but when you do ... WOW!
First point is a perfect wave but you are three deep on a good day!
We paddled out in the small bay in the middle... the tide high enough we didn’t have to rock hop and avoided the rip and the whitewater.
Easy paddle right into the lineup without even getting my hair wet. First wave ... took off on a inside shoulder high peak, crouched low as I got covered up through the bowl, the wave crunching on the tail of my 9’2” Jean -Luc Robert’s performance longboard, knocking it sideways and then spitting me out onto the shoulder!
Malibu is usually a paper thin, perfect shape, toes on the nose or climbing and dropping wall ... not today ... never seen it break so hard and fast particularly with an incoming tide ... the section’s were coming down in sheets!
Next good wave ... same story ... shoulder high inside peak ... but this time feeling more confident and the wave sucking less hit the bowl in a high line, screaming cheater five, yelling at some guy trying to drop in ... made it out to the shoulder my 7” center fin slipping slightly as the wave broke ... couple of turns up the nose again then back and out before I hit a close-out section.
Found the best way back to the line up was take the whitewater to the sand, walk back up to the bay and paddle from there ... otherwise you had a long paddle with a strong rip with heavy sets with guys crashing into each other right in front of you.
Got caught inside as a beauty a couple of feet overhead swept through ... some bare chest guy in (54F water 56F) air outside got lucky and rode it almost all the way to the pier. I caught the next big one ... hit the bowl and it stood way up, suspended, towering over me ... would have been epic ... then not one but two guys dropped in on the shoulder and collided ... I bailed out and called it a day ... two and a half hours, cold water, beat up from getting hammered on the ones I didn’t make and shivering even in my 4/3 with the building light onshore breeze.
Stuart being his first time there never really got the feel of the place. He paddled out to the kelp bed by the outer point and tried to take off inside the hot shot shortboarders .. wrong ... got totally smashed or dropped in on. He finally came back inside and caught a couple of smaller ones.
Outside guys on modern quad fish were ripping ... pump pump ... cover-up ... pump pump ... tail side ...pump pump ... floater ... pump pump ... boom! On the really clean big sets guys were riding all the way across ... one young kid went way out on the shoulder did a roundhouse cutback and as he hit the lip pulled off two 360’s down the face then pump pump out to the shoulder again!
The cameras were knee deep on the sand as we dashed across PCH dodging traffic including a Ferrari and a Lambo to Jack In the Box for a late breakfast, laughing as a Mexican nanny struggled with tow head young twins (a boy and girl) outfitted with blue leather reins and both running different directions.
Thank God the road was open on the way home and an hour later hit the sack without even taking a shower for a two hour nap! Life without a wife!
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday April 10 2007 10:35:23 PM
Modified: Thursday April 12 2007 05:10:58 AM
Hits: 2260
Tuesday April 10 2007 05:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Praia Mole, Brazil
Description:
With Vanderlei and Andre Trial... my leash fucked up! shit!
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday April 11 2007 06:44:14 AM
Modified: Wednesday April 11 2007 06:44:14 AM
Hits: 583
Tuesday April 10 2007 01:05:44 PM
Surf spot: Lawrencetown - Plan B, Canada
Description:
Well this was my second time surfing, and I gotta say I did way better then my first day a couple years ago!
Buddies:
Created: Friday August 10 2007 01:09:19 PM
Modified: Friday August 10 2007 01:09:19 PM
Hits: 2300
Written by im the best body boarder ![]()
Tuesday April 10 2007 10:39:49 AM
Surf spot: Newcastle beach, Australia
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday April 10 2007 10:41:25 AM
Modified: Tuesday April 10 2007 10:41:25 AM
Hits: 1186
Tuesday April 10 2007 04:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Doheny, United States of America
Description:
It was a nice south swell....thought doho would be breakin good so i went to go longboard and SCORE! these nice shoulder/head high waves just rollin through some reeeaaal nice rights of middles...caught one so nice caught it in middles ended up past the other side of the creek. it was doheny at its best. good times.
Buddies:
Created: Thursday April 12 2007 03:17:11 AM
Modified: Thursday April 12 2007 03:17:11 AM
Hits: 951
Written by im the best body boarder ![]()
Monday April 9 2007 11:51:21 AM
Surf spot: Nobbys Beach, Australia
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 9 2007 11:52:53 AM
Modified: Monday April 9 2007 11:52:53 AM
Hits: 947
Sunday April 8 2007 05:50:00 PM
Description:
At Lacanau south in the evening. Ok, Ok, This session was just for testing the new board with bad waves: 1m waves powerless with onshore wind. Even if it was not perfect, the board was good enough to have some fun.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday April 15 2007 11:43:43 AM
Modified: Sunday April 15 2007 11:43:43 AM
Hits: 726
Sunday April 8 2007 04:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Praia Mole, Brazil
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 9 2007 01:08:08 AM
Modified: Monday April 9 2007 01:08:08 AM
Hits: 562
Sunday April 8 2007 04:00:00 PM
Description:
Well the waves were indeed big this weekend. But most of the beach is just straight and the waves come straight in without any direction at all. This led to huge close outs that smashed down with a roar.
There was a 5.4 and 4.3 earth quake nearby on Friday. So this meant that the lifeguards weren't letting anyone do more than put a couple feet in the water. Everyone was keeping their eyes open for a tsunami. But the quake was up in the mountains and there were no major problems.
Sunday followed with 3 quakes just offshore in the ocean, 4.8, 4.8, and 5.0, around 8am. I didn't hang around to wait for a tsunami or tidal wave. But the radio was telling people to stay away from the beaches and that no swimming was allowed at all. I guess certain areas near the beach were being volunteerly evacuated.
I found a few areas that might be doable with smaller waves, but in general I wasn't really able to find anything great. The water was considerably colder than up north in Lima, but with the wetsuit it shouldn't be too bad. I did not see single person (other than myself) the entire weekend with any sort of board or intention to surf.
I drove up to Camana and then from Matarani to Punta de Bonbon. Down near Punta de Bonbon there were tons of farms and no real roads to the beaches (though there were a few signs). I didn't feel like 4 wheeling too much with the rental car. I'd advise bringing some kind of 4x4 for checking out those beaches.
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 9 2007 04:59:38 AM
Modified: Monday April 9 2007 04:59:38 AM
Hits: 1388
Written by im the best body boarder ![]()
Sunday April 8 2007 01:17:31 PM
Surf spot: Nobbys Beach, Australia
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday April 8 2007 01:18:45 PM
Modified: Sunday April 8 2007 01:18:45 PM
Hits: 1036
Sunday April 8 2007 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Consolaçao, Portugal
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday April 18 2007 04:28:16 PM
Modified: Wednesday April 18 2007 04:28:16 PM
Hits: 1135
Sunday April 8 2007 09:44:30 AM
Description:
Had a nice morning surf together with Carlos from Colombia. We went out at around 10 in the morning and paddled out north of the middle of Hoddevik, following a rip out. We then paddled almost all the way south. We had to adjust quite a bit from one set to the next, but when we finally were in the right spot, we caught some good, quite heavy waves. I was proud of getting three out of the three first waves I tried to surf this morning. The session ended after approx 1 hour, since we had to leave for Oslo, besides I was out of energy after a very light breakfast.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday April 10 2007 09:51:34 AM
Modified: Tuesday April 10 2007 09:51:34 AM
Hits: 3164
Sunday April 8 2007 07:00:00 AM
Description:
Haaaa, It's my first session with my new board. Great! it works perfectly. The waves were pretty good and I scored 2 tubes. The right was not as hollow and fast than the left. I was alone during all the session. It was a good choice to go early in the morning because, as it was the last possible session for the next days, it became really crowded.
Me on the right but I have surfed nearly only the lefts.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday April 15 2007 11:39:31 AM
Modified: Sunday April 15 2007 11:39:31 AM
Hits: 708
Saturday April 7 2007 04:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Mocambique, Brazil
Description:
After 15 days resting... back to surf!! :)
Buddies:
Created: Sunday April 8 2007 02:45:06 AM
Modified: Sunday April 8 2007 02:46:49 AM
Hits: 1106
Saturday April 7 2007 11:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Consolaçao, Portugal
Description:
pico da praia
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday April 18 2007 04:26:28 PM
Modified: Wednesday April 18 2007 04:26:28 PM
Hits: 1125
Saturday April 7 2007 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Anse Bertrand, Guadeloupe
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 16 2007 02:22:15 PM
Modified: Monday April 16 2007 02:22:15 PM
Hits: 2788
Saturday April 7 2007 10:30:00 AM
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 5 2007 04:00:54 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 5 2007 04:00:54 PM
Hits: 801
Friday April 6 2007 04:41:59 PM
Surf spot: Todasana, Venezuela
Description:
WAOOOOO sonn losss tubosss y tuboss!!!!! explotada la playita largaaa
con los panas MW
Buddies:
Created: Friday April 6 2007 04:44:48 PM
Modified: Friday April 6 2007 04:44:48 PM
Hits: 2135
Friday April 6 2007 04:36:05 PM
Surf spot: Cuyagua (Toda San), Venezuela
Description:
Buenazo por team MW huecaaaaaaa soo niceee
Buddies:
Created: Friday April 6 2007 04:40:16 PM
Modified: Friday April 6 2007 04:40:16 PM
Hits: 2319
Friday April 6 2007 04:21:26 PM
Surf spot: Choroni (Malecon), Venezuela
Description:
Tremendoo lugar para el surf
Buddies:
Created: Friday April 6 2007 04:24:52 PM
Modified: Friday April 6 2007 04:24:52 PM
Hits: 2320
Friday April 6 2007 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Anse Bertrand, Guadeloupe
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 16 2007 02:16:54 PM
Modified: Monday April 16 2007 02:16:54 PM
Hits: 2850
Friday April 6 2007 07:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Rabbit Hill, Australia
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday June 2 2007 05:44:45 AM
Modified: Saturday June 2 2007 05:44:45 AM
Hits: 1415
Friday April 6 2007 06:20:44 AM
Surf spot: Oak street, United States of America
Description:
Super fun, but then the waves went with the tide.
Buddies:
Created: Friday April 6 2007 06:22:21 AM
Modified: Friday April 6 2007 06:22:21 AM
Hits: 527
Friday April 6 2007 06:17:49 AM
Surf spot: Oak street, United States of America
Description:
Close outs, when it got good, all the best guys in Laguna Went out
Buddies:
Created: Friday April 6 2007 06:19:31 AM
Modified: Friday April 6 2007 06:19:31 AM
Hits: 614
Friday April 6 2007 06:15:03 AM
Surf spot: Thaila Street, United States of America
Description:
Fun lefts at hokuma
Buddies:
Created: Friday April 6 2007 06:16:24 AM
Modified: Friday April 6 2007 06:16:24 AM
Hits: 506
Friday April 6 2007 06:11:40 AM
Surf spot: San Clemente Pier, United States of America
Description:
Fun little contest, 7th overall bodyboarding, I don't know about surfing.
Buddies:
Created: Friday April 6 2007 06:14:01 AM
Modified: Friday April 6 2007 06:14:01 AM
Hits: 796
Thursday April 5 2007 10:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Anse Bertrand, Guadeloupe
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 16 2007 02:13:56 PM
Modified: Monday April 16 2007 02:13:56 PM
Hits: 2105
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