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Session: Come September (update)

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Thursday September 4 2008 12:49:14 AM

Surf spot: Ray Bay, United States of America

Surf Trip: Hot August nights ... ( 17 August 2007 - 17 August 2007)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: lots

Length of the surf session: 3.5 min

Surfboard ridden: 9'2

Fins: 2+1

Weather and water temp: 70F/70F

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Ledgey
- Fast
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl

Description:

Finally some good waves!  Dawn patrol "Ray Bay" San Gabriel Rivermouth, Los Alamitos Bay, Seal Beach. Perfect conditions, after week's of onshore, South 'Catalina Eddy' wind and knee high crumble. Early morning negative, building to a five foot plus late morning high tide and smooth glassy conditions. A mix of fading NW windswelll and building S/SSE groundswell from Chile with bigger southern hemi, coming up from Pitcairn, peaking Thursday plus new swell from New Zealand still in the forecast!

The RiverDrC Ray Bay sequenceMullet Reef

The river was chest to shoulder high with occasional bigger sets on the the tide push. At low tide we had 'point break' lines coming in from the 'Middle's' across 'Crabs'.  A little walled with sections but pick the right wave and fun, fun, fun. As the tide came in the break moved over to the north wall at 'Baracuda's' and got bigger and better! 

Wave of the morning: Mark Burke's rail grabbing, back-door peak, tube.

For about an hour it was going off! Head high peaks ... long rights across the bowl or snappy short left-handers. Got worked on a big left peak. Took off deep in the bowl, came up and out off the bottom as the lip peeled over, then the backwash and refraction off the breakwater pushed the wave back into itself! It jumped up to a couple of feet overhead and the wall vanished into a square box! I started free falling down the sheer face, then it concussed, boom, on back of my board (thought it was going to break in half). Just swatted my board like a bug and blew me up ... I had my wetsuit top pulled down to my waist and I finished up nose down, with my wetsuit around my knee's and my bare butt sticking up in the soup!

Wednesday morning update:

This morning we had plenty of size from building SE/SW southern hemi swells but no NW to cross it up, so pretty walled out. If you picked the right wave it was "Speed Racer" all the way! 

Ray Bay

Spooky Movie:  

The fog was a big problem, it rolled in so thick, at one point you could barely see the end of your board! I was out at Cuda's by the north wall when visibility vanished. Got totally disorientated, drifted over to the middle of the river mouth and started paddling the wrong way, out to sea! If I had come across another lone surfer with a better sense of direction, I would have finished up in the shipping lanes!

After that nasty shake-up, paddled inside, caught a set wave across and stayed in the pack at Crab's by the south breakwall! Fog never did lift while I was out there, even past 9 AM. You still could not see the breakwall, as I quickly found out. Hooked up on a nice shoulder high screamer across the inside sandbar on my 7'2" Super Fish. Steep take off, couple of quick pumps across the walll and it started to tube, crouched down and grabbed the outside rail ... just grinding; then I saw a dark shape rushing at me, holy shit ... the rocks ... BAIL OUT!

Wave of the morning: Surfer Tom's high line, high speed, wall.

Thursday Morning update:

Clean, clean, clean but smaller and really crowded! Some nice nose ride's across the inside sandbar by Crab's. Photo thanx to Tom.

Crabs

Check out them "Hot Legs"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsvsCHTwaJs

legs
.
"Who is this surfer showing such subtle inside rail movement, counter balanced by a weight shift to his trailing foot as he negotiates this little snapper from the tip? That poised, casual stance, could it be ... yes it's... Da Cat?"

TheCat

Foot in mouth 

 

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday September 3 2008 01:38:13 AM

Modified: Monday September 8 2008 07:04:30 PM

Hits: 1074

Session: Backhome

Written by RegnierGomes show RegnierGomes profile

Wednesday September 3 2008 01:00:00 PM

Surf spot: Costa da Caparica, Portugal

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 1

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'10

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Thursday September 18 2008 08:01:35 PM

Modified: Thursday September 18 2008 08:01:35 PM

Hits: 533

Session:

Written by Hannah1502 show Hannah1502 profile

Tuesday September 2 2008 04:14:41 AM

Surf spot: Crackington Haven, UK

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Very strong

Waves Quality:
- Mushy

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Sunday November 2 2008 04:16:03 AM

Modified: Sunday November 2 2008 04:16:03 AM

Hits: 1702

Session: all day holiday

Written by MYA3666 show MYA3666 profile

Monday September 1 2008 06:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Bolsa Chica, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 10+

Length of the surf session: 10 min

Surfboard ridden: chuck dent & 8'6

Fins: thruster

Weather and water temp: 73/70

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

bad sess predtion said 2-3ft poor to fair cond. also a big tide swing (-.1to5.1)swamped things out no shape had a few fun rides but overall was weak. at least i get to surf quit often

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday September 2 2008 07:40:03 PM

Modified: Tuesday September 2 2008 07:46:58 PM

Hits: 774

Session: The length and breath of C-Street

Written by necromagus show necromagus profile

Sunday August 31 2008 02:00:00 PM

Surf spot: Ventura Point, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: 9.6 Yater Spoon

Fins: Single

Weather and water temp: 70,65

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

Went to C-Street with Andri and his french friend Dad (Daaad).  Went in at the far left side, surfed/paddled my way all the way to the right most peak, and then back.  Probably 5 miles of paddling.

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday September 9 2008 08:06:26 AM

Modified: Tuesday September 9 2008 08:06:26 AM

Hits: 1239

Session:

Written by travis111 show travis111 profile

Sunday August 31 2008 07:06:59 AM

Surf spot: Shark Island, Australia

Description:

i was out about 2 weeks ago it was only about 3-4ft clean n i have not ever seen as many cock heads out in one break in one day all the semi pros that live in nulla n emerald crew are all fuk wits dropping in on yu no matter wat i would have understood them droping in on me if i was out there giving them no respected but i was and they just put that bak in ur face when yu call a wave and if ur ever out there n theres a kid called baker he has braces n hes bout 17  if the cunt calls a wave just drop in on him hes the biggest faggot out 

Buddies:

Created: Sunday August 31 2008 07:12:11 AM

Modified: Sunday August 31 2008 07:12:11 AM

Hits: 1659

Session:

Written by gdphischer show gdphischer profile

Sunday August 31 2008 05:42:36 AM

Surf spot: Naples Pier, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 14

Length of the surf session: 2 1/2 min

Surfboard ridden: Hubb 42.5

Fins: Churchill

Weather and water temp: 85F

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Ledgey
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

Shorebreak lefts north side of pier, not epic like venice prob was but good...

Buddies:

Created: Monday September 1 2008 05:45:46 AM

Modified: Monday September 1 2008 05:45:46 AM

Hits: 1250

Session: Prefect !

Written by yann show yann profile

Saturday August 30 2008 08:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 25

Length of the surf session: 2:30 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'0"

Weather and water temp: Air: warm 22°C, Water: 20°C

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Bowl

Description:

What a good surprise! I thought we will find only powerless 80cm. When I came at the top of the hill, I saw a incredible left whith noone on it... All surfers stayed on the right which was obviously less good. I just ran....I understand that it was because of the strong current.

Nethermind, I surfed nearly alone for 45 mn with incredible lefts. only one meter but the wave was cranking along a perfect sandbank. I have tried all the manoeuvers I knew !!!

After people came. Longboards were not very cool as they took waves without politness. We changed of surf spot but the tide was now too low.

yb080830grandcrohot1 The wave is a bit hollower thant on this photo. You could surf 80m.

yb080830grandcrohot2 yb080830grandcrohot3

show the potential of the wave.

Buddies:

Created: Saturday August 30 2008 02:46:34 PM

Modified: Saturday August 30 2008 02:46:34 PM

Hits: 738

Session: last of a dying swell

Written by necromagus show necromagus profile

Thursday August 28 2008 09:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Sands, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 3

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: 6.5 Fish

Fins: tri

Weather and water temp: 70,65

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Soft

Description:

One more time with the new fish, trying to get some last waves out of this swell.  Decent session, almost nobody out, but not too many waves either.

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 28 2008 09:25:54 PM

Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 09:25:54 PM

Hits: 1004

Session:

Written by Kelly C. show Kelly C. profile

Thursday August 28 2008 06:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Seal Beach Pier Northside, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Light

Length of the surf session: 1.5 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Friday August 29 2008 07:52:24 AM

Modified: Friday August 29 2008 07:53:05 AM

Hits: 896

Session: small stuff at campus

Written by necromagus show necromagus profile

Wednesday August 27 2008 04:00:00 PM

Surf spot: Campus Point, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 3

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: 9.6 Yater Spoon

Fins: Single

Weather and water temp: 70,65

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Soft

Description:

Annie, Maggie and I went to campus for a session.  It was mushy and a bit crowded (for the number of waves).  Annie used the new fish board, and liked it.  Got a ride on it.

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 28 2008 09:23:40 PM

Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 09:23:40 PM

Hits: 674

Session: Nice Wednesday

Written by nickymancini show nickymancini profile

Wednesday August 27 2008 03:49:37 PM

Surf spot: Fano - Lido, Italy

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 20

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: Longboard 9.2

Fins: 3

Weather and water temp: 27C and 23 C

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

Very nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 28 2008 05:52:01 PM

Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 05:52:01 PM

Hits: 922

Session: Frustration

Written by RegnierGomes show RegnierGomes profile

Wednesday August 27 2008 10:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Hendaye, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: ZERO

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'10''

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Mutant

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 28 2008 01:06:27 AM

Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 01:06:27 AM

Hits: 1423

Session: Bof...

Written by yann show yann profile

Wednesday August 27 2008 10:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 7

Length of the surf session: 1:30 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'8"

Weather and water temp: Air: warm 25°C, Water: 20°C

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

I expected good waves but the spot closed out...Frown

I just surf outside banks but it was not very good. Just big.

 

yb080827grandcrohot3yb080827grandcrohot2

At the end, it was hard to come back because of the BIG clos out. It was hot!

yb080827grandcrohot1

Buddies:

Created: Saturday August 30 2008 02:39:47 PM

Modified: Saturday August 30 2008 02:39:47 PM

Hits: 677

Session:

Written by Kelly C. show Kelly C. profile

Wednesday August 27 2008 08:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Seal Beach Pier Northside, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Light

Length of the surf session: 1.5 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2"

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Fun  time =) Got one good left just before I left.

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday August 27 2008 11:08:30 PM

Modified: Wednesday August 27 2008 11:08:30 PM

Hits: 749

Session: Has potential

Written by sg7 show sg7 profile

Wednesday August 27 2008 06:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Macao, Dominican Republic

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 1

Length of the surf session: 1.5 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2"

Fins: 4

Weather and water temp: 84F

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

Beautiful, RAW beach. Not much surfing this time of year, though.

Fallen palm trees everywhere. At least they weren't floating around in the waves like I heard from before.

If you're going to go, make sure you go with another person because if you drown, no one will know. The whole time, the only signs of life I saw were wild dogs wandering, couple of fishermen that walked by.

Fortunately, I was acquainted with a local surfer there, Roberto, who drove me over to the beach early in the morning. Here's the scoop from him:

- There are probably only a crew of 10 surfers in the whole Punta Cana area

- On Macao, you need a minimum of 8 foot waves in the summer to form a break, and 2 foot waves in the winter to form a break. So come in the winter. Or bring a longboard in the summer.

- You can ride waves for 50+ seconds during the winter. 

- Punta Cana is considered the north-facing part of the Dominican as opposed to the south-facing side. The main differentiator are the hurricanes...hurricanes always strike the south-facing side of the island, not the north. The reason is because the Dominican has 2 tallest mountain ranges in the Carribbean on the center of the island: the Central and the Oriental. They form a barrier that keeps most hurricanes on the South Coast. This was true, as Hannah didn't touch Punta Cana, but slammed San Salvador on the South. So don't expect many hurricane waves in this region. 

As we left the beach, he spoke of a secret spot called Caligula (sp?) that is the best spot to find waves during the summer. Never saw it.

All in all, if you want to surf during year-round in D.R., go to Puerto Plata.  

 

Buddies:

Created: Thursday September 18 2008 04:03:05 PM

Modified: Thursday September 18 2008 04:03:05 PM

Hits: 7514

Session: Good Good

Written by yann show yann profile

Tuesday August 26 2008 10:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 15

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'0" fish

Weather and water temp: Air: warm 27°C, Water: 21°C

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

I just return from Japan but we decided to go to the beach as conditions were good.

I good really fun waves, hollow and tubular. I worked on the rotation of my shoulders. A good session.

yb080826grandcrohot1 show the potentiel: 1.5m, 50to 70m of surf...

yb080826grandcrohot2 me at the end of the wave. Doesn't represent the surf this day

Buddies:

Created: Saturday August 30 2008 02:36:17 PM

Modified: Saturday August 30 2008 02:36:17 PM

Hits: 603

Session: Emma Wood and Mondo's on the new board

Written by necromagus show necromagus profile

Tuesday August 26 2008 09:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Emma Wood, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 6

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: 6.5 Fish

Fins: tri

Weather and water temp: 70,65

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

I had to stress test my 6.5 fish board (my first hand shaped board).  Emma Wood was big and tubular, but it was too much of a close-out to get any decent rides, so I went down the road to Mondo's.  I got a lot of rides there, but the mushiness of the waves there didn't really work with a short little fish.  Good news is that the board works great, paddles well, catches waves really nice.

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 28 2008 09:18:22 PM

Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 09:18:22 PM

Hits: 1409

Session:

Written by Kelly C. show Kelly C. profile

Tuesday August 26 2008 08:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Seal Beach Pier Northside, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: bunch of short ones... nowhere to go

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2

Weather and water temp: overcast and 66

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Ordinary

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday August 27 2008 01:34:29 AM

Modified: Wednesday August 27 2008 11:09:20 PM

Hits: 694

Session: bahhh

Written by RegnierGomes show RegnierGomes profile

Monday August 25 2008 06:07:49 PM

Surf spot: Hendaye, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 3

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: 7'6''

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday August 25 2008 10:09:47 PM

Modified: Monday August 25 2008 10:09:47 PM

Hits: 1154

Session: A bit of fun with my bodyboard

Written by nickymancini show nickymancini profile

Sunday August 24 2008 03:00:00 PM

Surf spot: Fano-Sassonia, Italy

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 30

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: Bodyboard

Fins: no fins

Weather and water temp: 28 C and 23 C

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Ordinary

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday August 25 2008 07:59:36 PM

Modified: Monday August 25 2008 07:59:36 PM

Hits: 1173

Session:

Written by pullnside show pullnside profile

Sunday August 24 2008 10:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Laniakea, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: alot!

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: 5'4" makani

Fins: AM

Weather and water temp: 80

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Powerful
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl

Description:

Super fun out of season swell! da rights was so rippable. u could do multiple turns, snaps, float sections, boost some airs! da left was wedging just asking for sum 12 o clock snaps. sum wave had some little barrels. Was fun to see all da boys and girls out and ripping. I boosted a big air and Jeff Johnson was blowing my head up telling me how sick it was on my little board. He was checking it out and said Makani did a good job and i was surfing the board well! Was nice to see everyone and I can't wait for this winter! Aloha

Buddies:

Created: Sunday August 24 2008 03:49:50 AM

Modified: Sunday August 24 2008 04:02:22 AM

Hits: 1358

Session: A good day

Written by nickymancini show nickymancini profile

Sunday August 24 2008 10:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Fano-Sassonia, Italy

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 20

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: Mine

Fins: 3

Weather and water temp: 26 C and 23 C

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday August 25 2008 07:56:32 PM

Modified: Monday August 25 2008 07:56:32 PM

Hits: 1064

Session: 3rd session of the day

Written by pullnside show pullnside profile

Sunday August 24 2008 04:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Laniakea, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: not as much as earlier

Length of the surf session: 2 1/2 min

Surfboard ridden: makani

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Fast
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl

Description:

I was kinda spent form da earlier sessions, but still was fun. probably chill tomorrow cause i have rash on my stomach, thighs, and underarm. love days like this. i'm gonna have a few beer and crash out!  

Buddies:

Created: Monday August 25 2008 03:51:57 AM

Modified: Monday August 25 2008 03:51:57 AM

Hits: 1218

Session: little ones

Written by RegnierGomes show RegnierGomes profile

Saturday August 23 2008 07:20:00 PM

Surf spot: Hendaye, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 6

Length of the surf session: 0,45 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'10''

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Sunday August 24 2008 12:30:03 AM

Modified: Sunday August 24 2008 12:30:03 AM

Hits: 767

Session:

Written by Kelly C. show Kelly C. profile

Saturday August 23 2008 11:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Bolsa Chica, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2"

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday August 25 2008 10:20:19 PM

Modified: Monday August 25 2008 10:20:19 PM

Hits: 594

Session: finish

Written by yann show yann profile

Saturday August 23 2008 07:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Ataka, Japan

Surf Trip: West Japan, summer 2008 ( 04 August 2008 - 24 August 2008)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 5

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2

Weather and water temp: stormy

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Powerful
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

And th my last session in Japan was not the best. 12 surfers at the peak and the sell was powerful, close outs and mushy... I took several waves but none were good.

Nethermind, my trip in japan was good !

yb080823japan1

yb080823japan2 there is a guy in the water... and it's pretty big !

 

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday August 27 2008 09:26:44 AM

Modified: Wednesday August 27 2008 09:32:30 AM

Hits: 1648

Session:

Written by Kelly C. show Kelly C. profile

Saturday August 23 2008 07:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Bolsa Chica, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Length of the surf session: 2.0 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2"

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday August 25 2008 10:18:39 PM

Modified: Monday August 25 2008 10:18:39 PM

Hits: 476

Session: short and good

Written by yann show yann profile

Friday August 22 2008 04:30:00 PM

Surf spot: Ataka, Japan

Surf Trip: West Japan, summer 2008 ( 04 August 2008 - 24 August 2008)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 9

Length of the surf session: 0:45 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2

Weather and water temp: Air: warm, Water: 26°C

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

Just a look at Ataka and I decided to jump into the water. Waves were smaller than in the morning but the swell was longer and the waves were better. I took a lot of them and it was fun !

a good short session.

VIDEO

 

0808japan028 not very hollow but waves were opening on nearly 100m.

0808japan029 with good turns.

0808japan030 the wave is mainly a right but on the bigger ones, it can be a good left

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday August 27 2008 09:14:20 AM

Modified: Saturday November 8 2008 03:12:05 PM

Hits: 1758

Session: Converting Kevin & Stacy to Surfers

Written by necromagus show necromagus profile

Friday August 22 2008 10:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Campus Point, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 7

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: 9.6 Yater Spoon

Fins: Single

Weather and water temp: 75,65

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

Kevin and Stacy's third time surfing in as many days.  They are really hooked, and with my foot feeling good enough to get wet (I sprained in on my previous session) we had a great time out there.  They both loved it.  I bet they will be back soon.

Buddies:

Created: Monday August 25 2008 06:04:20 PM

Modified: Monday August 25 2008 06:04:20 PM

Hits: 610

Session: good waves

Written by yann show yann profile

Friday August 22 2008 07:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Ataka, Japan

Surf Trip: West Japan, summer 2008 ( 04 August 2008 - 24 August 2008)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 20

Length of the surf session: 2:30 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2''

Weather and water temp: Air: 25, water:26

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Ledgey

Waves Shape:
- One peak
- Bowl

Description:

Good surprise this morning: there were glassy waves! And they were pretty good. We were 3 to 5 surfers with 2 brasilians. I took a lot of waves. Waves were a bit weak but so;e of them were very good. I took a big hollow left.

All the surfers wear wetsuits. I didn't understood as the water was warm. But they explained to me it was to avoid "kurage" (jellyfish). But i didn't get hurt.

0808japan024 some of them were hollow

0808japan025 general view of the spot

0808japan026 a brasilian guy

0808japan027

Buddies:

Created: Saturday August 23 2008 02:26:29 AM

Modified: Wednesday August 27 2008 09:16:30 AM

Hits: 1578

Session:

Written by gdphischer show gdphischer profile

Friday August 22 2008 06:56:25 AM

Surf spot: Naples Pier, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: Hubb 42.5

Fins: Churchill

Weather and water temp: warm

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Close out

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Saturday August 23 2008 04:58:04 AM

Modified: Saturday August 23 2008 04:58:04 AM

Hits: 1216

Session: I've been working on the railroad

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Friday August 22 2008 02:09:57 AM

Surf spot: Trestles, United States of America

Surf Trip: Hot August nights ... ( 17 August 2007 - 17 August 2007)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: lots

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: Super Fish

Fins: 2

Weather and water temp: 70F/64F

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Fast
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- One peak
- Bowl

Description:

4:30 AM the alarm goes off ... knock it off the nightstand... it goes off again, pick it up and drop it on the floor, finally turn it off but Destruct'o my daughters 15 pound Himalayan is now awake, jumps up on the bed and sticks its paw in my ear ... wake up! OK feed the cat, get ready, open the door to put my JL Super Fish outside ... and the cat bolts ... now I have to chase her down. Finally load the Solara.

Destructo 017

Head down 7th Street, CD blasting a Marty Robbins cowboy lament, to the 405 Freeway south on-ramp, by Cal State University, Long Beach but first have to find a gas station that's open ... good 7-11 ... get gas and a cup of coffee ... big mistake.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L14UKBjC5Is&feature=related 

No traffic, keeping it under 80 MPH watching for CHP. Zip- Irvine, Zip-Mission-Viejo, Zip-Laguna Niguel, Zip- San Juan Capistrano, Zip-San Clemente now San Onofre, Cristianitos Road turn-off coming up. Fifty miles in 45 minutes, not bad.

Its not quite 6AM, sky is still dark purple and already there is a line of cars. Kids with boards under their arm riding bikes, skateboards and even an electric scooter. Start the long trek down the path to Trestles.

SignUppers

Half way down the hill the 7-11 coffee strikes ... Oh no, got to go, bad. Run behind some bushes, scaring a cottontail and squat, right on a prickle, ouch, then pee in my shoe, lovely! Cross under the railroad trestle by San Mateo Creek, couple of Egrets fly overhead, laughing. 

'Uppers' looks pretty good, not too crowded, 3-4 foot, low tide with clean glassy conditions. I want to surf 'Lowers' so I plod the extra half a mile down the beach in the hard sand by the waters edge. Boy look at all those Pelicans out in the break, wait a minute, there not birds, there people, can't be ... yes, must be close to 30 guys out, and its only first light!

Pelican TrestlesLowers

'Lowers' is a world class, perfect a-frame reef break. Sand and cobble-stone bottom with some seaweed. The peak is so clean and easy, its like a blank sheet of paper, you can draw anything on it.

It's waist to chest with occasional head high sets. Clean, paper thin, hollow lefts and rights. There are no long boards out there and the surfers are good, very good and very, very good! Guys taking off deep in the peak, come flying off the bottom into a snap 360, or blasting out of the tube into another 360 or a front-side air!

Paddle outside with an older guy and a board builder from Puerto Rico, who just got back from surfing 10 foot Tavarua with Sonny Garcia, he is over here looking for a computer cad shaping machine. My 7'2" Super Fish can out paddle their 5'6" Thrusters and actually snag some sick waves! The lefts were steeper with a following curl, but the rights were longer and had a nice inside wall. I surf my forehand better on my 9'2" so I was mostly going right. You take off right in the suck up in the middle of the peak, its a fast, steep hollow take off and you need lots of speed.

When everyone out there is so good you make sure you bring your 'A' game, don't mess up and work every wave, hard. About 8:30 AM the crowd thinned and with the tide push it got a little bigger, but still inconsistent. Even though each peak handles two guys, there is only one take off spot, so its a lot of paddle positioning work and the water was quite chilly, probably low 60's. I lasted until around 9:30 AM when the sun finally came out. Cold and dead beat limped up the hill (got a blister on my heal from sand in my sneaker) made good time back home ... took a shower and passed out ... to tired for breakfast!

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 21 2008 02:30:59 AM

Modified: Friday August 22 2008 03:43:09 PM

Hits: 2249

Session:

Written by chris show chris profile

Thursday August 21 2008 05:00:00 PM

Surf spot: Le Truc Vert, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 7

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'3" SuperFish

Fins: Quatro

Weather and water temp: Sunny, water temp approx 20°C

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out

Description:

First try for Marina, Bruno's daughter. Conditionswere not perfect for an attempt! Established north wind,very strong current, and powerful waves. Marina did not succeed well.Only on her knees :( After this, I took several waves. 4 were good. A massive take off on a 1.5m swell. The shore break was not terrific but there were so many people on the shore it was difficult not hitting anybody! This is definitely not a spot for an august session...

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 21 2008 10:48:46 PM

Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 10:48:46 PM

Hits: 1473

Session:

Written by gdphischer show gdphischer profile

Thursday August 21 2008 04:51:39 AM

Surf spot: Naples Pier, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 12

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: BZ Hubb 42.5

Fins: Churchill

Weather and water temp: warm

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 21 2008 04:53:29 AM

Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 04:53:29 AM

Hits: 1110

Session: just me and shea

Written by pullnside show pullnside profile

Thursday August 21 2008 03:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Sand Island, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: choke!

Length of the surf session: 2 1/2 min

Surfboard ridden: 5' 4" makani

Fins: AM

Weather and water temp: 80

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- One peak

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Friday August 22 2008 07:03:50 PM

Modified: Friday August 22 2008 07:03:50 PM

Hits: 1204

Session: Nice...

Written by RegnierGomes show RegnierGomes profile

Wednesday August 20 2008 05:30:00 PM

Surf spot: Hendaye, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 9

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'10''

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 21 2008 11:40:18 PM

Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 11:40:18 PM

Hits: 1038

Session: Ouch!

Written by yann show yann profile

Wednesday August 20 2008 04:30:00 PM

Surf spot: Ataka, Japan

Surf Trip: Biscarrosse ( 25 April 2008 - 03 May 2008)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Very strong

Nb waves ridden: 12

Length of the surf session: 1:00 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2'' Aiko, rusty

Weather and water temp: Air: stormy, hot Water: 26°C

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Bowl
- Close out

Description:

Now the tropical depression was here. And it was big, windy. Nearly it was too much !

I jumped into the water to surf with 2 other surfers: at the peak, I discovered thet the other surfer was brasilian who was working at the local Sony's factory Surprised.

Waves were hard to surf and I was backside. But I got some good ones. Imagine a big shore break. You have to pay attention to the tripods. Don't coma at less then 15-20m or you will be projected by the rip into the tripods. Pretty ugly.

0808japan020  0808japan021

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 21 2008 09:46:35 AM

Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 09:46:35 AM

Hits: 1704

Session: Begin Surf Camp

Written by necromagus show necromagus profile

Wednesday August 20 2008 09:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Campus Point, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Strong

Nb waves ridden: 3

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: 9.6 Yater Spoon

Fins: Single

Weather and water temp: 70,65

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

Took Maggie's friend Jennifer out surfing for the first time.  She really liked it.  Also took my new, hand shaped 6.5 fish out.  It paddled and rode very well, but a fun broke out of it's binding and I had to take it in.

Buddies:

Created: Monday August 25 2008 06:01:14 PM

Modified: Monday August 25 2008 06:01:14 PM

Hits: 427

Session: Super Mushy Days

Written by berniedmj show berniedmj profile

Wednesday August 20 2008 06:44:49 AM

Surf spot: Tiburon, Mexico

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: A few

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: My egg

Fins: thruster

Weather and water temp: low 90's & mid 80's

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Soft

Waves Shape:
- One peak

Description:

Surfline said we're "supposed" to see a build up by this afternoon and we didn't see anything except onshore winds & choppyness..  It's actually fun because there is no more than 7 people out.  Sometimes there'll be only 3 people out.  Anything more than 7 people would've really suck.  I was hoping to see a bull shark but we saw a few manta rays getting air.  Tomorrow supposed to be 8 feet.  I seriously doubt it.  Maybe 5 feet and that's pushing it.  The people in the line up are cool.  But then again, we're all tourist staying at Cardon resort.

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday August 20 2008 07:01:20 AM

Modified: Wednesday August 20 2008 07:01:20 AM

Hits: 3215

Session:

Written by simon show simon profile

Tuesday August 19 2008 01:50:53 PM

Surf spot: Le Penon, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 15-20

Length of the surf session: 2h20 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'4

Fins: fcs

Weather and water temp: really good

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Powerful
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday September 22 2008 01:51:37 PM

Modified: Monday September 22 2008 01:52:00 PM

Hits: 1418

Session: Fast Swell

Written by yann show yann profile

Tuesday August 19 2008 11:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Ataka, Japan

Surf Trip: West Japan, summer 2008 ( 04 August 2008 - 24 August 2008)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Strong

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 1:00 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2'' Aiko, rusty

Weather and water temp: Air: stormy, hot Water: 26°C

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Powerful
- Hollow
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Bowl
- Close out

Description:

I knew the swell was coming.But at 9am, it was completely flat. And I have to surf before 12 because we will go for a trip.

I decided to come back at 10h30. Waves were 50cm... I wait half an hour and waves increase until 70cm. I jumped into the water just to surf something.

0808japan015 the beginning of the session: smalle waves

But after 20mn, swell increased and I get fun 1,20m waves:

0808japan016 the right started to work

But the swell continued to increased until 1,50 solid!

0808japan017 It broke outside tripods.

As I was alone and the outside current was strong, I decided to stop.

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 21 2008 09:40:20 AM

Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 09:41:15 AM

Hits: 1215

Session:

Written by simon show simon profile

Tuesday August 19 2008 10:49:25 AM

Surf spot: Le Penon, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 5

Length of the surf session: 45min min

Surfboard ridden: 6'3 francky board

Fins: single fins

Weather and water temp: good

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday September 22 2008 01:50:26 PM

Modified: Monday September 22 2008 01:50:26 PM

Hits: 1313

Session:

Written by simon show simon profile

Monday August 18 2008 05:48:10 PM

Surf spot: Les Estagnots, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 15-20

Length of the surf session: 2h20 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'4

Fins: fcs

Weather and water temp: really good

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Powerful
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday September 22 2008 01:49:07 PM

Modified: Monday September 22 2008 01:49:07 PM

Hits: 1375

Session:

Written by Kelly C. show Kelly C. profile

Monday August 18 2008 08:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Seal Beach, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Light

Length of the surf session: 2.0 min

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday August 18 2008 08:52:03 PM

Modified: Monday August 18 2008 08:52:03 PM

Hits: 799

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