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Surf session counter: 3663
Saturday September 18 2010 10:00:06 AM
Surf spot: Ansedonia - Il Cartello, Italy
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: many
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: Stewart 9.0
Weather and water temp: 24
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday September 18 2010 08:28:59 PM
Modified: Saturday September 18 2010 08:28:59 PM
Hits: 768
Saturday September 18 2010 09:00:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 12
Length of the surf session: 1.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: Fish 7S
Fins: 4
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
- Fun
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Petite session sympa avec un fort courant de nord. Il fallait y rester au pic!!!!
Buddies:
Created: Saturday September 18 2010 12:24:20 PM
Modified: Saturday September 18 2010 12:24:20 PM
Hits: 769
Saturday September 18 2010 08:30:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'8" fish
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
It's the end of the summer... The weather starts to be cold. Waves were short and hollow. After 40mn the currents were strong and waves get worse.
Not a good session even I took some good ones.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday September 19 2010 09:48:33 PM
Modified: Sunday September 19 2010 09:48:33 PM
Hits: 709
Thursday September 16 2010 09:00:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Nb waves ridden: few
Length of the surf session: 0.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: Twin Fish
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- One peak
- Close out
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Friday September 17 2010 04:49:59 PM
Modified: Wednesday March 23 2011 10:21:05 PM
Hits: 802
Wednesday September 15 2010 08:30:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 30
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'8
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Bowl
Description:
We started to drive at 7:15 and arrived in the water at 8:0. The day was beautiful: a classic september session.
Waves were powerful and a bit cloe out. BUT 50% were opening... 1.5, sometimes more, of hollow walls. SWOP wanted to take some photos with my fish. Gloups ! I didn't want to go with my too small board in these monsters....
I went with the fish. I got incredible waves: one was a hollow drop them a thick lip on 20 meter in front of me, backside...and I passed through !!! The board was great...
after 1h30 with the fish, I decide to take the 6'4" because I was exhausted. And the party was still on ! lefts and rights !
What a day !
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday September 15 2010 10:19:18 PM
Modified: Sunday September 19 2010 09:45:46 PM
Hits: 687
Saturday September 11 2010 07:45:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 40
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'8" fish
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Bowl
Description:
Classic sandbank
Classic september
A good session to remember !
First peak: we were just 3 then 6 (with 3 longboards). Thanks to the guys, the longboarders were very polite and didn't take all the waves ! I took fun tubes and a long one... My fish is a good board !
After 3:30, I went to the other peak (was a little better) to salute Swop. But the atmospher ewas very very bad because 2 or 3 stupid surfers. One of them even hit my board: I have to repair it !
Buddies:
Created: Sunday September 12 2010 10:15:01 AM
Modified: Sunday September 12 2010 10:15:01 AM
Hits: 662
Friday September 10 2010 08:30:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 3
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7' 2"
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: Good
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday September 12 2010 06:16:05 PM
Modified: Sunday September 12 2010 06:16:05 PM
Hits: 858
Friday September 10 2010 08:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 20
Length of the surf session: 2:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'4"
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Powerful and multipeak. Hard to surf but beautiful drops. With the low tide, it has stopped to work. A good session but not the best sandbank.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday September 12 2010 10:08:41 AM
Modified: Sunday September 12 2010 10:08:41 AM
Hits: 597
Wednesday September 8 2010 09:02:24 PM
Surf spot: Punta Blanca, Canary Islands
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: long
Weather and water temp: 20
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Tubular
Description:
08.09.10 was a big wednesday for me: my first wave :-)
spot: punta blanca
pay attention to the reef
Buddies:
Created: Friday September 24 2010 09:05:55 PM
Modified: Friday September 24 2010 09:05:55 PM
Hits: 1177
Sunday September 5 2010 12:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 20
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'8" fish
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
It was a classic session: 1.5m, glassy and a good sandbank. A little crowded but the atmosphere was good and everyone got his waves. It's the first time I really test my newfish: good but a little too heavy.
I went out for lunch with the girls then came back in the water. The peak stayed good despite the small onshore wind
Buddies:
Created: Sunday September 5 2010 05:48:13 PM
Modified: Sunday September 5 2010 05:48:13 PM
Hits: 721
Saturday September 4 2010 10:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Montalivet, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'9" Swop
Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
Le Porge closed out so we went (Gaby, Fred and Loig) up North. We stopped at Montalivet. Waves were powerless but surfable. Everything was wrong for me: my back foot was sliding and I couldn't surf my new board very well, I lost my two lens and didn't saw very well the set coming...
I got 2 really good waves. Better than nothing.
On the return, I bought a pad. It's a pity for the decoration of the board !
Buddies:
Created: Sunday September 5 2010 05:41:19 PM
Modified: Sunday September 5 2010 05:41:19 PM
Hits: 814
Friday September 3 2010 08:34:56 PM
Surf spot: Cotillo beach, Canary Islands
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: long
Weather and water temp: 20
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Bowl
Description:
I'm a novice so cotillo looks quite hard for me but a lot of fun there :-)
Buddies:
Created: Friday September 24 2010 08:38:18 PM
Modified: Friday September 24 2010 08:38:18 PM
Hits: 1090
Friday September 3 2010 02:00:00 AM
Surf spot: La Torche, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7"3
Fins: thruster
Weather and water temp: 25/17
Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft
Waves Quality:
- Hollow
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
Description:
session nickel avec un peu lachine à l'eau entre 9h00 et 12h00
A+
Buddies:
Created: Saturday September 4 2010 06:13:57 PM
Modified: Saturday September 4 2010 06:13:57 PM
Hits: 841
Thursday September 2 2010 10:07:06 PM
Surf spot: Flagler, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 2.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 8'6 Hybrid
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: Warm
Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
Hurricane Earl produced some good sized swells early with offshore winds.Long lines with big walls. Earl packed a punch. Turned onshore later in the day but still plenty of swell. Surfed Flagler early and North Shore Park(old ormond pier) Later in the day. Fun Day!
Buddies:
Created: Friday September 3 2010 10:19:52 PM
Modified: Friday September 3 2010 10:19:52 PM
Hits: 886
Thursday September 2 2010 03:53:05 PM
Surf spot: 35th Street, IOP, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 5 hours
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday September 14 2010 03:54:38 PM
Modified: Tuesday September 14 2010 03:54:38 PM
Hits: 1074
Tuesday August 31 2010 12:01:37 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: A lot
Length of the surf session: 3-4 hours
Surfboard ridden: Body Board
Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
Was in Portugal for a short Holiday and figured i'd get a good surf while I was there... Went down to Gale beach which was a short walk from our appartment and tried to see if there was somewhere to rent a surf board.. (even a foamy would have done) but no.. in the full stretch of beach, Which is I dont know how many miles long there was no where to rent. There was a surfer worked at the pedalo rental thing and after asking him where I could rent a surf board apparently the nearest place was the west coast. So in desperation I went to a local sports shop and bought a body board just so I could catch some sort of wave.
Headed straight to the beach and caught some good waves.. both left and right handers.. not quite the same as surfing but better than nothing. Waves got a bit dumpy at high tide due to the steep shore line. Hopefully will be able to head to the west coast next time im in Portugal. either that or fork out to bring my boards with me.
Buddies:
Created: Friday August 12 2011 12:29:16 PM
Modified: Friday August 12 2011 12:29:16 PM
Hits: 1191
Saturday August 28 2010 09:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 18
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'4
Weather and water temp: Air:17°C Water: 21°C
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
Description:
I just came back yesterday evening but I saw that It will be my only chance to surf this week. An dI have Kaifu in mind: I need to surf with more engagement if I want to score tubes...
The swell was onshore but surfable and with power. It was better than I thought and I tested to take off more inside than usual.
As the tide got lower, the waves were hollower. My 6'4" is just a dream !
Buddies:
Created: Sunday August 29 2010 10:21:00 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 08:54:39 PM
Hits: 751
Wednesday August 25 2010 09:48:23 PM
Surf spot: Cayton Bay, UK
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10+
Length of the surf session: 1.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: Spider
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: Sunny. not sure on temp
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
Realy good session, nice and sunny with a light offshore breeze. The tide was just going out when we got there. Surfed to the left as you had down the pretty steep path. Initially only a couple of other surfers in the water when we arrived. A few more came a little later, but you could hardly call it crowded! There we some nice waves coming through with the odd 6 footer thrown in to keep it interesting! First time I have surfed Cayton Bay when it is not either really small or closing out. What a great beach break! Need to get some booties next though, after an hour and a half my feet were starting to get pretty cold. All in all a good morning surfing, shame work had to go and spoil it!
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:59:10 PM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:59:10 PM
Hits: 1222
Monday August 23 2010 01:43:47 AM
Surf spot: Valdovino, Spain
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'2"
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: warmer!
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
Description:
midtide out-going. Not bad! Fun rights, and a friendlier left (also mushy) for the beginners nearer the island.
I went out with Flo, his second session of the day. And he actually went out for a 3rd. Who else had 3 surfs today... um... Stanti, yeah! Stanti and Stanzi's last night:(
Tomorrow, smaller, time to GoPro!
Buddies:
Created: Monday August 23 2010 01:53:24 AM
Modified: Monday August 23 2010 01:53:24 AM
Hits: 910
Thursday August 19 2010 08:57:04 PM
Surf spot: El Paredon, Guatemala
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Surfboard ridden: funboard
Weather and water temp: always nice and warm
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
I just had a great week of surf in Guatemala at El paredon surfcamp. I was lucky with the waves. Everyday sunshine and at nights sometimes a shower. No crowd at all and beside surfing i realeased some baby turttles, reading in a hammock, hanging out with the other guests and some locals. the beach is excellent for running or walking. I am a beginner but i had really fun riding some waves!
Ciao Alice
Buddies:
Created: Thursday August 19 2010 09:01:48 PM
Modified: Thursday August 19 2010 09:01:48 PM
Hits: 1874
Thursday August 19 2010 02:28:52 PM
Surf spot: Dreamland, Indonesia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 1
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'6'' de loc. très fine
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: Good
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Une session très courte sur Bali. Après avoir été voir Uluwatu et manger là bas, on est passé par Padang Padang et finalement choisi Dreamland pour les enfants. Parking payant 15.000 Rp et loc excessive; ils demandaient 200.000 Rp pour 1h de surf; j'ai finalement eu le prix Lombokien à 50.000 mais ils n'étaient pas très cool.
Dreamland est un shore break, ça casse au large sur du sable avec de gros remous. J'ai trouvé la vague très molle et avec la 6'6'' galette de loc que j'avais, c'était même pas la peine :-(
Buddies:
Created: Friday August 20 2010 04:33:32 AM
Modified: Friday August 20 2010 04:34:08 AM
Hits: 1655
Wednesday August 18 2010 03:46:02 PM
Surf spot: Shipwrecks, Indonesia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 2
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: KMX de loc?
Fins: 3 and 2 !
Weather and water temp: Partilly clooudy & nnice temperature
Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Bowl
Description:
Je suis parti à la rame du bord, à côté de Puri Nusa. C'est long! Je dirais qu'il y a bien 700 m voir plus. La passe est marquée par un drapeau rouge qu'il faut laisser sur babord. De l'autre côté, sur le reef, il y a pas mal de poteaux en bois.
Je suis arrivé au peak un peu fatigué, avec ma 6'4'' de location... et bien pour un gros 2m50, c'était un peu léger! Il y avait une dizaine d'Ozies à l'eau avec un super niveau qui se gavaient. Bref, à moins de partir plus à l'inside qu'eux, c'était pas simple de se caler pour en prendre une!
J'en ai pris une moyenne de 2m environ, fait trois ou quatre virages et je me suis retrouvé un peu près du reef. Assis sur la planche, les pieds touchaient! Bref, c'est une vague assez chaude et il ne faut pas trop la faire durer car au fond, il n'y a vraiment pas d'eau du tout.
Je ne sais pas si c'est sur cette vague ou la suivante mais j'ai fini par casser ma dérive tribord. Je ne m'en suis pas aperçu tout de suite; ça devait être sur une vague où je me suis fait boiter. Ca explique aussi les deux ou trois gamelles qui ont suivies... essayez de surfer une droite bien creuse sans dérive tribord!!!!!
Le soleil se couchait et j'ai pas trop traîné pour rentrer, on commençait à plus trop voir où il fallait passer pour rentrer!
Buddies:
Created: Thursday August 19 2010 02:00:36 AM
Modified: Friday August 20 2010 04:28:28 AM
Hits: 1383
Monday August 16 2010 03:54:06 PM
Surf spot: Mehdya Beach, Morocco
Session's Rate: 
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday August 26 2010 03:55:02 PM
Modified: Thursday August 26 2010 03:55:02 PM
Hits: 1212
Monday August 16 2010 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Shibagaki, Japan
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0"
Weather and water temp: Air: Sunny 30°C. Water: 28°C
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Ordinary
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
I was back in Komatsu (Japan sea) after the Shikoku travel. A classic meteo situation occured: a WSW wind flow in the Japan sea passed off Komatsu but straight into Noto Hanto. No swell in Komatsu but will there be in Noto Hanto ?
We went by car in one hour only which was the first good surprise. I found at Shibagaki a fun beach break to surf. Nothing special but enoughto do the move. There are also 2 good reef breaks around and I will check them in my next trip.
The session confirms the good potentil of Japan: not as good as in France but there is enough to surf.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday August 29 2010 10:08:22 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 10:08:22 AM
Hits: 1360
Sunday August 15 2010 09:41:10 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'6" hybrid
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: perfect
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
On 2 days, only 1 other guy out each day. 3rd day all to myself. A bit of a wait between sets, like a southswell lull. Took my 11 yr old daughter out here for learning in consistent, glassy 3' waves, she freaked out when she saw all the blowfish. There really is a lot of them here. Rocks are also full of urchins. Surfed at the eastern end of the beach where you can walk in on sand and the reef/rocks in the line-up are consistently at least 3' deep.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday August 22 2010 10:11:42 PM
Modified: Sunday August 22 2010 10:11:42 PM
Hits: 2471
Saturday August 14 2010 05:34:02 PM
Description:
Not a bad combo. Fun to bring out the cortez and the NSPs. We have a new addition to the quiver. An 8'O that's been getting all the attention. Haven't had a go on it yet, since my last experience with our longest board, a 7'2" ended bad. I tried to stay on when I should have fallen... People don't do a layback on big board for a reason 'cause when you don't make it, and the board is still in the wave, it can push straight at your back and it hurts!
I'm fine, tho it was a bit scarry to have backpains in the water...
Anyway the 6'10" was fun enough, and we are looking at 2 flat days, but if the wind is on, we would have some wind chop to surf, which is why we love galicia!
Buddies:
Created: Sunday August 15 2010 05:37:58 PM
Modified: Sunday August 15 2010 05:37:58 PM
Hits: 892
Tuesday August 10 2010 02:39:04 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 13
Length of the surf session: 2.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: Bilt Funboard
Fins: Thruster FCS
Weather and water temp: Cloudy. water 20 degrees celcius
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday August 15 2010 02:43:51 PM
Modified: Sunday August 15 2010 02:43:51 PM
Hits: 1327
Tuesday August 10 2010 09:49:16 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 0:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0"
Weather and water temp: Air: Sunny 30°C. Water: 28°C
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
We were going up north to finish our traval in Shikoku. We passed on the road along a "bad" spot of the area. But I was surprised to see this waves and I just jumped for few minutes to take some of them. (as my family was waitind, I just had few minutes).
In 15min I took 5 waves (a performance with 60 surfers on 2 peaks): as the swell was south, the spot was pretty good.
Note: there are some waves on the opposite island
Buddies:
Created: Sunday August 29 2010 09:54:07 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 09:54:07 AM
Hits: 1516
Tuesday August 10 2010 05:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Kaifu Rivermouth, Japan
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Weather and water temp: Air: 27°C. Water: 27°C
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- Bowl
Description:
Kaifu ! It's maybe the mos tfamous japanese spot. It's the rivermouth standard. On a big swell, it's a long hollow right. On a medium or small size, it's a slab on a sand/gravel bar. You have a 1.5m to 2m peak on a no more than 1m deep water: I have done several freefalls and I could stand up on the sand bar with the water at my hips...
There are a fierce competition here with very good / professionnal surfers in the water. Hopefully, the conditions were pretty mellow (for the standard here !!!) and we were only 3 at the beginning.
I took 10 waves but I surfed well only 4 of them. I didn't have this sensation since Tahiti: I didn't have the level to surf this spot well. The waves were too fast and too hollow for me. It was the first time I felt that my wonderful fish Maurice Cole was not the good board: too small and too wide... I felt I didn't have enough engagement. And it was just a bad day for locals!!!
It's just a wonderful incredible wave !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-nqMdwtY3g
this peak of me shows how incredible is the wave. It's only a small swell, 1,20m, but with the wonderful sandbank and the rip, it turned into a hollow big and powerful wave, very hard to take. If you are a good surfer you can tube at nearly every wave.
a surfer from Osaka. Fierce at first then we started to talk.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday August 29 2010 09:48:41 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 10:23:42 AM
Hits: 1578
Monday August 9 2010 03:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Takegashima, Japan
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Weather and water temp: Air: 30°C. Water 28°C
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Bowl
Description:
10 years ago, I have bought the japanese surf spots atals. As it was in japanese, I just saw the photos. I remarked a photo with no mention of a beautiful surf spot. It was a dream, the type of dream wich make you travel. I didn't even knew where it was...except it was a reef in Shikoku.
We passed at this reef this afternoon at low tide: there was no wave but I recognized the landscape. It was Takegashima ! We went to do snorkelling and the tideraised up. When I came back to quit the area, I saw a small wave with a surfer. I jumped in the water via the etrapods and surf it.
The surf was far than exceptionnal but as it's a reef, the wave really surfable. And the water was so clear. And the landscape was beautiful. And I was so far from home. I just enjoyed so much this session. The other guy was a japanese on a single. A fierce local. But after 30mn, as I kept a low profile, we started to speak. He explained me that the spot is usually totally crowded.
The wave got better with the rising tide. I had to come back.
Buddies:
Created: Thursday August 26 2010 01:15:19 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 09:33:25 AM
Hits: 1405
Monday August 9 2010 05:30:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0"
Weather and water temp: Air: 27°C. Water 27°C
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Again Ozaki early in the morning but surfers are already there...
Waves were better than yesterdeay but this spot has nothing to be compared to Monobe.
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:10:44 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:10:44 AM
Hits: 1303
Sunday August 8 2010 04:00:00 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Weather and water temp: Air: 27°C. Water 27°C
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
Description:
We stopped at Ozaki in a pension 200m from the spot (tokumasu pension). It's a beachbrea and it's crowded with surfers from Osaka. The beach is the same that thoses I have seen in Tahiti: black sand, green mountain fallen directly into the sea, peaky waves.
I was surprised: 20% are girls and they surfed better than me !!
surfers slept into their cars during the week end
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:04:06 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:06:26 AM
Hits: 850
Sunday August 8 2010 08:40:22 AM
Surf spot: Monobegawakakou, Japan
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Weather and water temp: Air: 27°C. Water 27°C
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Bowl
Description:
I knew Monobe was good. I didn't have any forecasts but I wake up at 4:45 and drive 30mn to Monobe. Will it be better than yesterday ? swell, no swell ? localism ?
When I arrived, it was A-Frame ! with already surfers in water. The left was better than yesterday. I started the session with only 2 surfers wich is incredible in Japan for this spot.
I took around 15 waves and because of the rip, I just surfed 1:15. What a session ! The morning lights with the tropical storms were amazing. The other surfers started to talk after 30mn (the regular asianobservation...)
Even if I will not surf more in Japan this year, I was very happy to have found this quality of waves.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WNOKaprMto
I didn't understood why they are waiting...
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:51:12 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:56:40 AM
Hits: 742
Sunday August 8 2010 01:00:41 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 8
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: Bodyboard Manta Indo 42
Weather and water temp: water 17º. Air 24º
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
Waves Shape:
- Close out
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Monday August 9 2010 10:00:00 AM
Modified: Monday August 9 2010 03:46:04 PM
Hits: 1163
Saturday August 7 2010 12:50:29 PM
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday August 7 2010 12:55:59 PM
Modified: Saturday August 7 2010 12:55:59 PM
Hits: 925
Saturday August 7 2010 12:35:22 PM
Session's Rate: 
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Friday August 13 2010 12:36:33 PM
Modified: Friday August 13 2010 12:36:33 PM
Hits: 1108
Saturday August 7 2010 05:15:00 AM
Surf spot: Monobegawakakou, Japan
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Weather and water temp: AIR:30°C
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Bowl
Description:
I was visiting Japan since ten days mainly in the mountains of Shikoku, far from the shore, far from internet and the forecasts. It was the first day we were near the shore. We were driving to our hotel at the end of the day when I decided to see the very first spot on the road. I didn't even knew that Monobe was a major rivermouth spot of Japan. I didn't even knew where the wave was.
It situated at the end of the airport. I climbed on the jetty and, surprise, there were waves. Not good waves but punchy waves. No surfers. In fact, it was the beginning of the first typhoon swell of august.
I started to surf, a little afraid because of the very strong rip from the rivermouth. Why there was no surfer ? Waves were very hard to take, steepy, shallow, sand and boulders. Then some surfers appeared. I has been blocked underwater after a reentry : the wave is just powerful !
The landscape of mountains in the summer is incredible. After the session, I realized that this spot is a difficult and famous one and I was lucky to havesome waves here alone.
the take off is hollow and hard because of the rip
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:20:17 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:05:45 AM
Hits: 607
Friday August 6 2010 04:29:37 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 11
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: Rip Curl
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: 28°C+
Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Hollow
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Une seule session sur Lombok; de passage en famille près de Kuta Lombok... On s'est arrêté à Grupuk. Il y avait là à peu près tous les surfeurs de Kuta, à croire que c'est le seul spot du coin (à Kuta, c'était un peu torchon, faut avouer). J'ai croisé James et Rob, deux Anglais qui arrivaient de Kuta et on a partagé le bateau. Un bon quart d'heure pour rejoindre la vague. Il y avait une bonne dizaine de surfeurs à l'eau, mais c'était ok. J'ai pris 11 vagues de 2M+. Puissants, de bons murs au take off! La vague est rapide mais pas trop. Au fond des rochers et des algues; je me suis fait rouler une ou deux fois; c'est noir mais il y a de l'eau. Une vague "safe". Une belle session avec soleil couchant et des mecs cool à l'eau.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday August 8 2010 04:36:00 PM
Modified: Friday August 20 2010 04:28:41 AM
Hits: 2492
Tuesday August 3 2010 11:56:44 PM
Surf spot: Salinas San juan, Spain
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Established
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6.10 18. 1/4
Fins: fcs
Weather and water temp: 28ºc - 16ºc
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Media Marea subiendo, dos picos bien definidos, derecha e izquierda, sin viento, serie potente en la orilla. El mejor dia del verano.
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday August 4 2010 12:00:55 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 4 2010 12:00:55 AM
Hits: 1091
Monday August 2 2010 06:00:00 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: B52
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:29:35 PM
Modified: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:30:05 PM
Hits: 1104
Monday August 2 2010 10:57:33 AM
Surf spot: Valdovino, Spain
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 2
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'2"
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
B4 breakfast surfs are hard for me 'cause I love breakfast. But it looked so good, and we have had just baby surfs for a few days now. Actually since the full moon. They say that if the waves are shit during the full moon then it stays shit for a solid week. It's true. Anyway the week of scheis is over, and bring it on!
This wave is not like it was last year, with the full on peeling wall, but beachbreaks are like this, sometimes its good, and sometimes it's avg. So the wall is a bit shorter than it use to be, but still, a meter is a meter, and glassy is glassy.
Flo got some good ones, and I got a couple of lefts that are happy. Martin, Lukas, and Nils joined in a little later. On my last wave, I was going for a big (for me) right.... and i just wasn't committed enough to go. My board went anyway, and I entered the washing machine.
The wind still hasn't picked up... and I think Pantin is on the agenda for the after lunch surf, and it's definitely gonna be a 3 surf day:)
-Marilyn
Buddies:
Created: Monday August 2 2010 11:14:30 AM
Modified: Monday August 2 2010 11:14:30 AM
Hits: 951
Sunday August 1 2010 06:00:00 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: B52
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:25:02 PM
Modified: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:27:06 PM
Hits: 1042
Sunday August 1 2010 06:48:59 AM
Surf spot: San Onofre, United States of America
Nb waves ridden: 15+
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 8' longboard
Fins: tri
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Monday August 2 2010 06:50:55 AM
Modified: Monday August 2 2010 06:50:55 AM
Hits: 955
Saturday July 31 2010 02:00:00 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 2.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: B52
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:21:51 PM
Modified: Tuesday August 3 2010 11:31:28 PM
Hits: 1018
Friday July 30 2010 06:18:06 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 8 each about
Length of the surf session: 2.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7.2" to 8"
Weather and water temp: frio
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
It looked like shit but we went in anyway as it was Lukas's first session in 2 years. We go, biggest boards possible, and it turned better! Some good lefts, and a couple of locals even pulls some alley-oops (or whatever they're called).
It stayed good for a solid hour, and then it got closey when the tide came up too much.
Anyway better than as forecasted. The boys also got to test out the locals' longboard(skate) while lunching at the cafe. Beautiful weather and good vibe. Yay-ya.
Buddies:
Created: Saturday July 31 2010 06:21:45 PM
Modified: Saturday July 31 2010 06:21:45 PM
Hits: 970
Wednesday July 28 2010 03:05:46 AM
Surf spot: Valdovino, Spain
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Very strong
Nb waves ridden: 5 each about
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7'2" polyester. 7.2" epoxy. my 6'3
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday July 29 2010 03:09:13 AM
Modified: Thursday July 29 2010 03:09:13 AM
Hits: 837
Tuesday July 27 2010 06:10:00 AM
Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'8" fish
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
There was still a small summer swell. Enough to jump into the water !
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday July 27 2010 11:03:34 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 27 2010 11:03:34 PM
Hits: 614
Tuesday July 27 2010 06:10:00 AM
Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'9 spider
Fins: FCS
Weather and water temp: Overcast but not cold
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Soft
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Hoped for early morning Glass - but slight wind blowing. Full high tide as day started and had a lot of closeouts, but as tide started to drop, the swell which was still small, but a bit longer and cleaner than previous days, started to produce some decent waves on the sets.
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday July 28 2010 02:25:21 PM
Modified: Wednesday July 28 2010 02:25:21 PM
Hits: 568
Monday July 26 2010 07:15:00 AM
Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'9" Swop
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
I was just hungry of surf and wanted to test my new surf before going to Japan. Nothing to say: waves were crappy but I had a better feeling with my new board.
I went with Richard.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday July 27 2010 11:01:47 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 27 2010 11:01:47 PM
Hits: 531
Monday July 26 2010 06:52:00 AM
Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 8
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'9 spider
Fins: FCS
Weather and water temp: Overcast but not cold
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Soft
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
More swell than previous days, but very messy with short period and lots of overlapping waves, no real peak, and a fair amount of current. the conditions were poor, my surfing was awful... ahh tired arms!
Buddies:
Created: Monday July 26 2010 11:54:06 AM
Modified: Monday July 26 2010 11:54:06 AM
Hits: 586