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Session: Costco Buddies

Written by CHarvey show CHarvey profile

Thursday March 16 2000 04:21:40 AM

Surf spot: Beacons, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 6

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'6"

Fins: 3

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Ordinary

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday January 16 2007 02:24:22 AM

Modified: Tuesday January 16 2007 02:24:22 AM

Hits: 1417

Session:

Written by olasmaster show olasmaster profile

Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Ala Moana Bowls, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Nb waves ridden: 6

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: 7

Fins: 3

Weather and water temp: w

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Bowl

Description:

Wow! Sick wave...

Very tight local crew...3 hours and only 6 waves.

 I was one of two non locals. The other guy got heckled pretty bad by a mob of Hawaiins. Funny though, the dude making the biggest stink may have been born in Hawaii but was definately of Japanese decent. Anybody ever taken notice of what the Japanese have done to Hawaii? One local dude that was catching a lot of waves dropped in on me blatenly. He definately wasn't a purebred either. Not much really different here. Good waves always brings out the ugly greediness in people.

 Somehow the locs will make the unmakeable sections riding really close to the point of impact of the lip to the face and then just pull under the curtian and get shacked, so don't assume they ain't gonna make it!  Awesome to watch how wired they have it.

 This place has got the juice. Real mellow take off that just jacks at the last minute and throws out. Can't wait to surf it again.

Same little lineup crap at any localized spot. Just don't expect much and you will be rewarded.

I've worked up to this spot. 15 years water time or so and I was still low man on the totem pole. Be respectful and know your experience level.

 By the way...Thank you to the true Hawaiian King! Biggest hawaiian dude in the water gratiously gave up my wave of the day. Aloha and Mahalo.

If you want to see what it looked like. Go to Hawaiianwatershots.com and check out the 4/18/08 shots of Bowls.

 

Buddies:

Created: Saturday April 26 2008 08:09:18 PM

Modified: Saturday April 26 2008 08:09:51 PM

Hits: 2791

Session: Surfers Paradise - Nasty sand bars

Written by megcanada show megcanada profile

Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Surfers Paradise, Australia

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Established

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Weather and water temp: Beautiful sunshine

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Bumpy

Description:

This was my first surfing lesson ever. The shore break was killer, mainly due to the massive sand bars. Ate a lot of sand that day. Only after the lesson did the instructor suggest other places that were more beginner-friendly along the east coast of Australia. (See Noosa.)

Buddies:

Created: Saturday April 4 2009 12:49:06 AM

Modified: Saturday April 4 2009 01:44:57 AM

Hits: 1277

Session: 2nd light

Written by rssmscott show rssmscott profile

Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM

Surf spot: 2nd Light, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 12

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'8

Fins: 3

Weather and water temp: VAS rain 75

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Ordinary

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

VAS DRIVING RAIN TO SEMI GLASSY BIG TUESDAY? ALMOST WAS THE ONLY FOOL OUT FOR A WHILE AS A FEW TRIED BUT COULDNT MAKE IT. MET SOME COOL PEEPS SO THE VIBE WAS GOOD ALTHOUGH THE SURF WAS SUBPAR.

Buddies:

Created: Saturday May 30 2009 10:34:36 PM

Modified: Saturday May 30 2009 10:50:37 PM

Hits: 831

Session:

Written by mhaudiopro show mhaudiopro profile

Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Pantai Tungku, Brunei

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 20+

Length of the surf session: 4 min

Surfboard ridden: Manta Blunt

Fins: BSC Custom

Weather and water temp: Overcast and about 24

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Description:

Good waves coming in from the north west. Caught biggest and best waves crashing into the sandbar in the middle of the beach. Started at about 2pm and it was probably 1.2m then at about 4.30/5 the waves peaked and were close to 1.7/1.8. Fun left and right rides, even if they were short. Hopefully some more action in the south china sea will send some more waves our way soon.

Buddies:

Created: Sunday August 23 2009 07:30:14 AM

Modified: Sunday August 23 2009 07:34:04 AM

Hits: 2382

Session:

Written by skan show skan profile

Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Marina di Romea, Italy

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Sunday January 31 2010 07:31:51 PM

Modified: Sunday January 31 2010 07:32:43 PM

Hits: 827

Session: had the flu too

Written by dotdashdashdash show dotdashdashdash profile

Thursday November 18 1999 02:17:07 PM

Surf spot: Kuta Beach, Indonesia

Session's Rate:

Nb waves ridden: numerous

Length of the surf session: 4 min

Surfboard ridden: squashtail

Fins: 3

Weather and water temp: hot/hotter

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday November 18 2008 02:19:24 PM

Modified: Tuesday November 18 2008 02:55:35 PM

Hits: 1501

Session:

Written by dotdashdashdash show dotdashdashdash profile

Monday October 18 1999 02:23:46 PM

Surf spot: Lagundri, Indonesia

Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- One peak

Description:

99 kicked ass cause there were no aussies due to indos bad sentiment concerning east timor involvement.  lagundri had local kids only for almost a week and one guy from bangkok and me... and one kook.

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday November 18 2008 02:27:52 PM

Modified: Tuesday November 18 2008 02:27:52 PM

Hits: 2404

Session:

Written by Guruba show Guruba profile

Wednesday August 11 1999 05:33:58 AM

Surf spot: Maresias, Brazil

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Established

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday February 5 2007 05:35:07 AM

Modified: Monday February 5 2007 05:35:07 AM

Hits: 1829

Session: Noosa Love

Written by megcanada show megcanada profile

Saturday May 15 1999 01:00:00 PM

Surf spot: Noosa Main Beach, Australia

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Weather and water temp: Sunny, hot

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Description:

This was my second surf lesson. It started out as crap because the board they gave me had been repaired and broke. Luckily, the instructor, Sammy, had the afternoon off and offered a private lesson to make it up to me. How awesome was that!

The waves this day totally made up for the bad day in Surfer. Still ate a lot of sand, but I got up several times and loved every second!

Buddies:

Created: Saturday April 4 2009 12:49:50 AM

Modified: Saturday April 4 2009 01:44:12 AM

Hits: 885

Session: Huntington

Written by miguelsp show miguelsp profile

Sunday February 21 1999 12:12:37 PM

Surf spot: Huntington Beach, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: 6"7

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Ordinary

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

No me acuerdo demasiado bien, pero no tuve extaordinarias sesiones en esas fechas.

Buddies:

Created: Monday September 28 2009 02:15:21 AM

Modified: Monday September 28 2009 02:15:21 AM

Hits: 613

Session:

Written by Guruba show Guruba profile

Monday January 4 1999 05:12:28 AM

Surf spot: Praia Brava, Brazil

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular
- Mutant

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday February 5 2007 05:14:48 AM

Modified: Monday February 5 2007 05:14:48 AM

Hits: 1230

Session: Espana surf

Written by wannatommy show wannatommy profile

Friday July 10 1998 03:11:07 PM

Surf spot: San Antolin, Spain

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 15

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: pat rawson 6'8 pintail

Fins: thruster

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Fast

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Cool

I went to Spain on early july . I brought my beloved 6'8 Rawson pintail .

The waves could have been a little bigger , or my board a little more like a fish , but the waves were fun and i could take speed to ride the waves up to the shore and lay a trick onthis summer friendly wave . The place is so beautyfull , the apple juice is awsome , pepole are charming , our host was totaly amasing and we saw Carlos Santana in Oviedo or somewhere .

Spain is great . I love Spain

Buddies:

Created: Saturday December 23 2006 03:26:52 PM

Modified: Saturday December 23 2006 03:26:52 PM

Hits: 1446

Session:

Written by Guruba show Guruba profile

Sunday April 5 1998 05:17:43 AM

Surf spot: Riozinho, Brazil

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday February 5 2007 05:19:33 AM

Modified: Monday February 5 2007 05:19:33 AM

Hits: 1723

Session:

Written by Guruba show Guruba profile

Thursday February 5 1998 04:32:17 AM

Surf spot: Matadeiro, Brazil

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Established

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday February 5 2007 04:33:12 AM

Modified: Monday February 5 2007 04:33:12 AM

Hits: 1338

Session: The Big Sunday

Written by nickymancini show nickymancini profile

Sunday September 14 1997 12:00:00 PM

Surf spot: Fano - Lido, Italy

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: can't remember!

Length of the surf session: 4 min

Surfboard ridden: Bodyboard

Fins: no

Weather and water temp: 20 C and 18 C

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Over 100 meters of surfing all pier long! Was unforgottable...

Buddies:

Created: Sunday July 27 2008 06:41:54 PM

Modified: Sunday July 27 2008 06:41:54 PM

Hits: 709

Session:

Written by pccarrera show pccarrera profile

Saturday July 5 1997 12:33:15 AM

Surf spot: Pavones, Costa rica

Session's Rate:

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Friday January 5 2007 12:34:11 AM

Modified: Friday January 5 2007 12:34:11 AM

Hits: 2399

Session:

Written by Guruba show Guruba profile

Friday June 20 1997 06:06:48 AM

Surf spot: padang padang, Indonesia

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- One peak

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday February 5 2007 06:07:51 AM

Modified: Monday February 5 2007 06:07:51 AM

Hits: 2202

Session:

Written by ozsurfer101 show ozsurfer101 profile

Monday June 9 1997 11:08:18 PM

Surf spot: Pink rocks, Australia

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 5

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'8

Fins: 3

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl

Description:

My Comments: world class at size.

Session Highlight: barrels down the lline

Comment on Swell, Waves and Wind: big south swell, waves on point 4-8 feet, long barrels, crowded.

My Perfectible Points:

Air Temperature:
Water Temperature:

Buddies:

Created: Saturday December 9 2006 11:08:25 PM

Modified: Monday December 11 2006 11:15:33 PM

Hits: 1866

Session: Runaway schol for Surf

Written by wannatommy show wannatommy profile

Thursday September 5 1996 03:00:00 PM

Surf spot: Berck sur mer, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: maybe more than 20

Length of the surf session: 01H30 min

Surfboard ridden: Malibu

Fins: single

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Laughing

Berk

I was in a bordind school that year . What happend is that I felt like surfing rather than schooling in september , just after spending july and august surfing Lacanau ( France ) on my Pipe Dream 6'6 . My friend and i decided to stay in his parents for the weekend . My mate got his driving license a few month ago and I introduced him to surf during the past summer . his parents offered him a malibu . He became a surf searcher in about 3 month , and I could see the changes in him , like he got less potato couch , he spent less time sleeping , he felt really better .

the weather was more like a romantique and hard weather dark cloud painting and brown sea with tinny multipeak braeks sometimes glassy . Not really a surf spot ? I'd rather say the funniest uncrowded , unexpected surf spot . I spent 1h30 in the water , taking as much wave I could . After , we felt like having hot chocolate . There is a lot of " Pubs " around , you can find the crowd there while it's raining outside .

Ok , Berk isn't Uluwatu , but it's fine for me as far as I shared a really good time with my mate and surfed like a dum alone on this mud/sand beach , and I missed school for a day .

Buddies:

Created: Saturday December 23 2006 02:58:13 PM

Modified: Saturday December 23 2006 02:58:13 PM

Hits: 1270

Session:

Written by ozsurfer101 show ozsurfer101 profile

Wednesday September 4 1996 11:25:51 PM

Surf spot: Supertubes (J-Bay), South Africa

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 15

Length of the surf session: 4 min

Surfboard ridden: 7;0

Fins: 3

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

My Comments: first wave speed train 300m. Straight after that another one.

Session Highlight:

Comment on Swell, Waves and Wind:

My Perfectible Points:

Air Temperature:
Water Temperature:

Buddies:

Created: Saturday December 9 2006 11:25:56 PM

Modified: Monday December 11 2006 12:24:46 PM

Hits: 2761

Session:

Written by JM Bird show JM Bird profile

Sunday January 28 1996 02:00:25 PM

Surf spot: Dominical, Costa rica

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Light

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: World Coast 6'4''

Fins: 3

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Powerful
- Fast

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Surf de qualidade, um metrão, muito boas ondas, bem em pé e forte.

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday March 6 2007 03:05:41 AM

Modified: Tuesday March 6 2007 03:05:41 AM

Hits: 1729

Session: Exotic Gardens

Written by Glider show Glider profile

Monday September 11 1995 08:12:11 AM

Surf spot: Moonstone, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Established

Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- One peak

Description:

CarpNT_KW-sanddollar.jpg

Buddies:

Created: Sunday May 3 2009 08:13:44 AM

Modified: Sunday May 3 2009 09:54:44 PM

Hits: 1265

Session:

Written by timad show timad profile

Wednesday March 23 1994 10:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Kaisers, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 5

Length of the surf session: 1.5 min

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Saturday April 14 2007 05:03:57 PM

Modified: Saturday April 14 2007 05:03:57 PM

Hits: 1506

Session:

Written by ozsurfer101 show ozsurfer101 profile

Sunday February 10 1991 11:36:44 AM

Surf spot: Raglan - Indicators, New Zealand

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 15

Length of the surf session: 6 min

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak

Description:

My Comments: one day 6 hours, 6-8 foot Indicators, 4-6 feet Whale, 3-5 feet Manu.
Session Highlight: wave right through Indicators, 12 foot face.
Comment on Swell, Waves and Wind:
Techniques to improve:
Air Temperature:
Water Temperature:

Buddies:

Created: Thursday December 14 2006 11:38:51 AM

Modified: Thursday December 14 2006 11:38:51 AM

Hits: 2206

Session:

Written by Jdouble show Jdouble profile

Tuesday November 7 1989 02:36:38 PM

Surf spot: In Betweens, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 25

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: body board

Weather and water temp: 75/75

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Fun
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Bowl

Description:

Smile

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday November 28 2007 02:41:08 PM

Modified: Wednesday November 28 2007 02:41:08 PM

Hits: 972

Session: Birth

Written by HTavares show HTavares profile

Saturday July 1 1989 12:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Comporta, Portugal

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: try many

Length of the surf session: many min

Surfboard ridden: 1

Fins: 3

Weather and water temp: perfect for 30 minutes, no wetsuit

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Close out

Description:

My "surfing birthday". I dont remember the day but i sure still remember the feeling! And friends! and the days of that summer after the "birth".

 I was 16 years old. My brother 15. Another friend with a "Boogie Board" (that used to be the name of that fucking thing... now is "Body Board"). And two girl friends.

We took a strangers hike from the ferryboat at Setúbal. Walk thru the camping on both sides of the sandroad. It was high tide and we had to wait for about 2/3 hours to see waves breaking on the out side. Then we enter the sea and wait, with water by the waist and standing up with feets on the sand. Every time a wave came we jumped to the board - the timing had to be right - and let the wave take us until we believe it was ok to stand up and ride the foam.

 

Buddies:

Created: Sunday September 23 2007 03:30:54 AM

Modified: Sunday September 23 2007 03:30:54 AM

Hits: 1863

Session: The Cave

Written by Glider show Glider profile

Friday April 15 1988 08:27:00 AM

Surf spot: Lahaina Harbor - Break Wall, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Glassy

Surfboard ridden: Rockin Fig

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Fast
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- One peak

Description:

Surfing Lahina every morning, and The Cave all afternoon with Greggo & Lancer.. 

Buddies:

Created: Sunday May 3 2009 08:29:55 AM

Modified: Sunday May 3 2009 08:29:55 AM

Hits: 1055

Session:

Written by ozsurfer101 show ozsurfer101 profile

Friday December 11 1987 04:55:48 AM

Surf spot: Sanur - Grand Hyatt, Indonesia

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 4 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'6

Fins: 3

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak

Description:

My Comments: Sanur alone in 1987

Got 3 6 foot set waves before anyone paddled out, 200m. Offshore and perfect. Next day too big.

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday December 12 2006 04:57:55 AM

Modified: Tuesday December 12 2006 04:57:55 AM

Hits: 2148

Session: My First time I surfed peak to shoulder.

Written by stephendedwards show stephendedwards profile

Saturday December 26 1981 12:32:32 PM

Surf spot: Broadbeach, Australia

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: cant remember

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: 5'3" Sky round tail

Fins: Single

Weather and water temp: 21 deg C.

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

I remember it clear as ever.  I was only eight years old and had just got the board about a month before for my birthdaay.  I had already learnt to stand up about 9 months before hand on a boogie board and was still pretty green with a fiberglass board.  I was catching white water and got a sick reform in the shory.  It formed up on a mad left.  They kept commong ththrough consistently, but as a full super grom was strugglig to paddle against the rip.  I only got that one wave that was wearth talking about (or so I thought at the time!) and was so frothing that I went strait home to tell my mum.

 

The funny thing is that I have had sick waves almost every boxing day since.

Buddies:

Created: Sunday March 9 2008 12:58:24 PM

Modified: Sunday March 9 2008 12:58:24 PM

Hits: 903

Session: Thai

Written by DAKer54 show DAKer54 profile

Sunday July 16 1978 09:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Trestles, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 4 dozen+

Length of the surf session: 5 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'4" Rounded-Pin

Fins: single

Weather and water temp: hot/warm

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday March 5 2008 03:20:23 AM

Modified: Wednesday March 5 2008 03:20:23 AM

Hits: 651

Session: Initiatio to surf ( around 8 years old , on a 60's single )

Written by wannatommy show wannatommy profile

Wednesday July 6 1977 11:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Lacanau, France

Session's Rate:

Nb waves ridden: a few

Length of the surf session: donno min

Surfboard ridden: Farrely Single white and blue ( the lesh fixed on the single fin )

Fins: single ( with a holl to fix the lesh )

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Cool

COOL !

 My first session ever . I was born the same year , a few month ago .

I could hardly walk yet , so my father just sat me on this olddie Original Farrely single waxed with Parafine and pushed me into tiny waves .

The water was warm , I felt safe and had great fun .

Since that day , I returned to Lacanau every summer . I know this place for years now , and feel the same intense and incredible exitement each time I approach to Lacanau . It usually begins when I drive into " Lacanau Ville " . 

It has something with the shinning or something to me . it's hard to explain .

 

Buddies:

Created: Saturday December 23 2006 02:18:01 PM

Modified: Saturday December 23 2006 02:18:01 PM

Hits: 962

Session:

Written by Billington show Billington profile

Tuesday February 10 1976 11:53:09 PM

Surf spot: Windansea, United States of America

Surfboard ridden: Freemont/ Seagull

Fins: single

Weather and water temp: cold

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Description:

I surfed there mutiple times in the mid 1970's Chris Orourke was the best. He passed from Hodgkins disease. He had the place wired...

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday February 10 2010 11:57:27 PM

Modified: Wednesday February 10 2010 11:57:27 PM

Hits: 1043

Session: Merry Xmas

Written by DAKer54 show DAKer54 profile

Monday December 25 1972 05:30:00 AM

Surf spot: 56th St., United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: countless

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'-4

Fins: single

Weather and water temp: 60/60

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular
- Mutant

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

My mates and I surfed here damn near everyday.

She was a harsh teacher.

Pitched, or over the falls was a typical fate if your timing is off

Kick out and land on the back of the wave then you're gone.

Get it wired and the tube awaits.

Lee Pope was the master.  I first saw him take off in front of the jetty and he backdoored a 6 foooter.  He rode an eggy, green board with a black arrow.

Buddies:

Created: Saturday June 16 2007 03:25:14 AM

Modified: Wednesday January 2 2008 06:05:16 AM

Hits: 951

Session:

Written by RayBans show RayBans profile

Tuesday July 14 1970 12:59:59 AM

Surf spot: Staircase, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 12

Length of the surf session: 2hrs min

Surfboard ridden: Bill Streambridge Starship

Fins: 1

Weather and water temp: warm sun 55 water

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out

Description:

First tube ride...I can still see the hole...30+ years later

Buddies:

Created: Thursday April 12 2007 04:12:05 PM

Modified: Thursday April 12 2007 04:13:46 PM

Hits: 1128

Session: Scary ...

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Thursday January 1 1970 12:59:59 AM

Surf spot: Piha, New Zealand

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: Several

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: Longboard

Fins: Single

Waves height: 4.5m-6m / 15ft-20ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Mutant

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks

Description:

 Phia  phiaphia2

 

Back in the late 60’s was over of the northwest coast of the north island of New Zealand at a spot called Phia with three buddies from the Gold Coast, OZ. A pacific cyclone in the Tasman Sea was producing giant surf added to the fact that NZ (being volcanic) has little continental shelf and has a huge tidal difference we had to wait for high tide to even think about trying to get out.

 

After high tide we watched from the shore and waited half an hour for a lull before we made it out through the mass of white water. We picked off a couple of the smaller (cleaner) but still overhead peaks that did not totally wall out when we looked out to sea and saw mountains marching in … feathering on an outside reef in deep water a mile out!

 

What to do … too far out to paddle in past the impact zone … not far out to make it over the top … I looked at my buddy as we scratched for the horizon and said “I’m going to take off on the first wave and prone out.”  “Yeah me too he said!”

 

As the first mountain walled up we both spun around … and took off.  I made the drop … shot way out in front of the wave … then proned out lying way back by the tail holding on with a death grip … took the concussion and bounced, slapped and skipped engulfed inwhite water all the way to the shore.

 

Robbie Acton made it also but Stu Adams kept paddling out to sea .... finally he took off on a monster … must have been 20 feet.  He made the drop and turn then just got wasted … (we looked around for help none he was on his own) took him an hour to swim in … got swept a mile down the beach and just collapsed on the sand ... his board disappeared!

 

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday December 20 2006 10:16:01 PM

Modified: Thursday June 7 2007 09:21:49 PM

Hits: 2133

Session: By the dawns early light

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Thursday January 1 1970 12:59:59 AM

Surf spot: Cresent Head, Australia

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: several

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: Longboard

Fins: Single

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Fast
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Bowl

Description:

Crescent Heads, OZSunbeam

 

 

 

Wednesday a November dawn in early summer at Crescent Heads on the north east coast of New South Wales, Australia 1967.  The first rays of gold and red upon the ocean revealed perfect lines marching in around the point with sets from shoulder to overhead feathering in the light SE offshore breeze. Warm water, sand and cobblestone bottom lined a rocky headland with a scattering of Pandanas Palms ... no one out!

 

My three mates and I had driven the several hundred miles south from Queensland on PCH in a Sumbeam Rapier (Hitchcock used the marque in the 1955 classic "To Catch a Thief" with Grace Kelly and Cary Grant driving a 1953 Sunbeam Alpine Roadster) owned my Michael Eaves whose parents were wealthy farmers who had seen the writing on the wall in South Africia (think the Mau Mau and Zulu uprisings) and emigrated to Australia. 

 

With our "Joe Larkin" longboards strapped to the roof rack we were seeking the perfect waves pictured in a OZ surfing mag of Nat Young arching on the nose at Crescent like Mickey Dora (my idol) at Malibu. I actually drove that car at 90 MPG on winding mountain road! 

 

 

 

 

We had slept in the car at the campground by the creekmouth in the bay and instead of walking all the way around the point to get out  we began the mile or so paddle out to the line up. 

 

 

After dispatching a few of the smaller set waves two of us tookoff  (both goofy) on a giant overhead peak ... hard off the bottom ... crouching through the bowl in front of the rocks then out onto the long glass wall ... we were climbing and dropping but as the wave boomeranged into the bay into what the locals now call “The Racetrack”  it got faster and faster ... I was inside and low my mate was up high in front and the wake from his board made the wave start to peel over my head  ... I crouched  down and grabbed a rail ... I could see light in the tunnel for a couple of seconds but then I was in the washing machine and making the long swim to the creek mouth. ... he rode it all the way!

 

Would love to go back in time to those waves today ... either lip smacking, tail sliding on my 7’ 2” MR design Twin Fin “SuperFish” or  screaming down the line on my super light, super fast, flat bottom ,down railed  9’ 2” x 23” x 3” x 19” x 14” x 5” 2 +1 (3.25” sidebites + 7” center fin) hybrid ... single stringer, modern high performance John-Luc Robert’s Longboard.

 

The “Joe Larkin” I was riding was typical of that time ... a three stringer 9’8” x 21.5” x 3.5” x 17” x 14” x 6” that weighed a ton ... had a soft rolled bottom and egg rails ... very little rocker and a  9” single fin.  Absolute JUNK ... do not understand people who go out today and order “retro” boards complete with a Hula Girl or some such on the bottom ... we had to suffer through them and to pay over a $1,000 US for a piece of junk that only Joel Tudor or Mickey Dora could ever ride just so they can look “cool”  is beyond me?

 

(Sunbeam Rapier 1956-69) 

Engine: cast iron block with aluminium head

4 ylinders.........................................

4Bore and Stroke...................................81.5mm x 82.5mmCubic

Capacity....................................1,725.c.c

Valves............................................O.H.V.pushrod

Compression atio...............................9.2:1

Carburetters......................................2 Zenith Stromberg 150 CDS

Fuel Pump.........................................A C Mechanical

Oil Filter........................................Full Flow

Maximum Power (net)...............................88.B.H.P at 5200 rpm

Maximum Torque (net)..............................100lb.ft at 4000rpm 

Transmission Clutch..............................Borg and Beck- 7 1/2 inch diaphragm spring

Top gear ratio......................1.0:1 (overdrive-0.803:1)

3rd gear ratio......................1.296:1 (overdrive-1.04:1)

2nd gear ratio......................1.993:1

1st gear ratio......................3.122:1

Reverse ratio.......................3.323:1

Overdrive type.......................Laycock D-type

Final drive.........................Hypoid bevel 4.22:1 

Maximum Speeds (MPH) Mean-lap (banked circuit)..........................98.7

Best one-way 1/4 mile..............................102.2

Direct Top gear....................................93.0O/d

3rd gear.......................................90.03

2nd gear...........................................72.02

1st gear...........................................30.0 

Acceleration times 0 - 60............................................12.0

Standing 1/4 mile...................................18.5

Sunbeam Alpine Roadster:

 

 

For those who've never seen the film, I should explain that the vehicle in question is not the Sunbeam Alpine familiar to many people – the car which eventually became the Sunbeam Tiger, powered by a Ford V-8. The Alpine in "To Catch a Thief" is from an earlier era. More a Grand Tourer than a sports car, it is far prettier than the later Alpine.

The Alpine that made its debut in 1953 was a derivative of the Sunbeam-Talbot 90 sedan and drophead (convertible coupe), which featured a 2267cc 4-cylinder engine and 4-speed transmission with optional overdrive. This car had a remarkably successful rally career, including a 1953 overall victory in the famed Monte Carlo Rally.

Sunbeam Alpine 

 

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday December 26 2006 09:33:31 PM

Modified: Thursday June 7 2007 09:21:26 PM

Hits: 1562

Session: Jan. Driftwoods

Written by revlin show revlin profile

Thursday January 1 1970 12:59:59 AM

Surf spot: Driftwoods, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: Lost

Fins: FCS

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday January 9 2007 10:13:30 PM

Modified: Friday January 12 2007 02:14:00 AM

Hits: 1386

Session:

Written by jcannon001 show jcannon001 profile

Thursday January 1 1970 12:59:59 AM

Surf spot: Tamarindo, Costa rica

Session's Rate:

Nb waves ridden: 5 or 6

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: Longboard

Fins: 3

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

best waves I had ever surfed.

Buddies:

Created: Sunday February 4 2007 03:44:06 AM

Modified: Sunday February 4 2007 03:50:17 AM

Hits: 2430

Session: Porthtowan holds it down

Written by radicalty show radicalty profile

Thursday January 1 1970 12:59:59 AM

Surf spot: Porthtowan, UK

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 50+

Length of the surf session: 6 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'6" Rusty Hipster

Fins: c5

Weather and water temp: overcast, chilly

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

awesome surf,  and unbelievably beautiful backdrop. thanks to locals Ollie and Josh for lending us their wetsuits when we thought we could man it out in out 2/2 springys, i will never forget surfing there so much fun,

Buddies:

Created: Friday May 4 2007 07:56:41 AM

Modified: Friday May 4 2007 08:01:03 AM

Hits: 1299

Session:

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Thursday January 1 1970 12:58:58 AM

Surf spot: The Island, New Zealand

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: None!

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: Longboard

Fins: Single

Waves height: 3.5m-4.5m / 12ft-15ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Hollow
- Tubular
- Mutant

Waves Shape:
- One peak
- Bowl

Description:

 

 

 

 

   TheIslandSpongeBay

 

 

 

 Island island

 

 

 1966/67  ... just prior to the Dora era in Gisborne NZ a bunch of ex pat Aussie terrorists surfers including myself,  Robbie Acton, Peter Sawtell along with a couple of girls (one who cried herself to sleep ever night over her boyfriend ... shutup) were living packed into a tiny house ... even had a sleeping schedule posted to the fridge, two per available bed ... the rest on the floor ... in rotation.

 

We surfed the local beaches and went on some trips with Lumpy Loagan the son of the owner of the local rag in his English Ford sedan to Makorori Point and Wainui ... he almost killed us one afternoon while driving too fast on an icy road in the Mahia Peninsular when a gust of wind from the mountains blew the car off the road and upside down into a shallow stream! However he also provided us with the local “groupie” girls if you know what I mean ... to whom we assigned colors : Little Red, Big Blue & Miss Green ... forget why ... anyway enough said about that!

 

 X_1948_Ford_English_Anglia_3668_11242006041116_16435

 

 

A giant storm system was producing huge swells closing out all the local beaches so we drove out to a place called Sponge Bay on a gray nasty day.  Sitting on the cliff above we could see the entire bay and  Island more than a mile offshore ... huge pipes the equal of Banzi Pipeline, not just peaks but massive walls.... set after set were peeling, spitting and grinding off the island!  Way out to sea perhaps half a mile inside the bay and breaking almost sideways to shore was what looked to be a clean 6’ to 8’ A frame left-hand peak.

 Sponge Bay and “Inside Island” as it is known today was rarely surfed a that time before the advent of leashes and wetsuits except for a few hardy local Midway clubbies and HSOB Rugby Club surfers. Only really gets good a couple of times a year and really big south swells are needed to line it up properly.  

We decided to go for it ... no easy matter as the bay has no beach just shallow water with sharp layered rock formations up to the cliffs and a bottom covered with sea urchins.  After scrambling down we paddling out boards upside down until it was deep enough and made the long trek out to the lineup in cold murky water with floating debris from the storm surge.

 

Waves that had looked to be 6’ to 8’ from the cliffs were up close and personal  in reality ... 10’ to 15’. We all sat around and watched the sets roll by ... finally Peter Sawtell took off on a double overhead peak and disappeared into a huge bowl then popped up a hundred yards inside ... he made it! Gathering some courage I started paddling for one of the smaller ones ... it was hard to push through with the wind and spray rushing up the face of the wave into your face until I looked down into an elevator shaft ... I pulled back hard! As some one once said “big waves are not measured in feet .. but increments of fear”.

 

I knew I was in over my head ... with my inexperience in big waves and riding a totally unsuitable 10’ log I was definitely flirting with the Fates and paddled inside.  Peter caught a couple more standup tubes and not wishing to push his luck also called it quits!

Buddies:

Created: Friday December 29 2006 08:22:51 PM

Modified: Thursday June 7 2007 09:22:05 PM

Hits: 1614

Session: Fun Fun Fun ...

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Wednesday December 31 1969 08:59:59 PM

Surf spot: Ballina North Wall, Australia

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: Lots

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: Noserider

Fins: Single

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak

Description:

Sometimes the best sessions are not fleeting moments on giant waves ... a do or die adrenaline rush ... some times they are just pure well ... FUN.

 

 As usual during the crowded tourist infected summer on the Queensland , Gold Coast combined with typical strong NE onshore wind my mates and I would drive south down the coast past scenic Cabarita point over the hills and back along the coast road to the small community of Bryon Bay.  Byron is most easterly point on the Australian coastline complete with a historic lighthouse overlooking the headland from which you can see schools of sharks patrolling ... no incidents of attacks as the surfing spots of “The Pass” and “Tallow’s” lie inside plus we figured they were not very hungry as there was plenty to munch on.

 

The routine was to surf Tallow’s on the back side which was protected from the nor’easter (not unusual to see Bob MacTavish, Nat Young and crew out there during the late sixties and early seventies) and spend Saturday night at the local bar where you might lucky or at least get bombed ... remember driving a Ford wagon off a side road one night down into ditch ... opened the door ... barfed ... fell in it and woke up next morning feeling very seedy to say the least ... lucky some mates came by and got us out. 

 

Anyway one weekend as the wind was strong onshore and the swell huge we drove further south past Broken Head to the small sea side town of Ballina. At Ballina you could surf the protected north or south breakwaters ... shark heavens ... where the wind was cross shore or if the swell was big enough inside the Ballina River itself.

 

This day ... across a sandbar in the river where the freshwater met the ocean by a bridge peeled perfect waist high left handers ... a few locals out and a bunch of kids making sandcastles at waters edge. We ripped it up for three hours ... 85F degree water 90F air temp sand and silt bottom with a gentle breeze. Queensland and northern New South Wales is the land of right hand point breaks ... lefts are hard to find ... if you are a goofy you surf your backhand better than your forehand! 

 

On my last wave I snapped turned from the top walked up to the nose and stayed there ... used my knees to hold position as the wave broke perfectly all the way from the sandbar to the beach ... hoping some one was watching as I approached dry sand ... still on the nose ... pulled off a spinner and stepped onto a kiddy sandcastle!

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday December 27 2006 09:04:50 PM

Modified: Thursday June 7 2007 09:22:20 PM

Hits: 1602

Session: Cherry

Written by DAKer54 show DAKer54 profile

Monday April 15 1968 08:28:19 AM

Surf spot: Bolsa Chica, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 5

Length of the surf session: .75 min

Surfboard ridden: 8'6" Greek Mini Model

Fins: single

Weather and water temp: warm/cool

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Soft

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Wednesday March 5 2008 03:30:49 AM

Modified: Wednesday March 5 2008 03:30:49 AM

Hits: 530

Session: barrels

Written by daniel.perrella show daniel.perrella profile

Tuesday July 7 2009 03:30:25 PM

Surf spot: Caseys, Australia

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 40

Length of the surf session: 3 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'0''+181/4+2 1/4

Fins: m5

Weather and water temp: 16-19

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Hollow
- Tubular

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Bowl

Description:

nice barrells

Buddies:

Created: Friday September 21 2007 05:41:43 PM

Modified: Friday September 21 2007 05:41:43 PM

Hits: 1342

Session:

Written by pullnside show pullnside profile

Monday June 8 2009 04:56:43 AM

Surf spot: Lahilahi Point, United States of America

Nb waves ridden: choke!!

Waves Quality:
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Bowl

Description:

Beware!!! If u not one local watch out!!!

Buddies:

Created: Thursday September 11 2008 04:59:20 AM

Modified: Thursday September 11 2008 04:59:20 AM

Hits: 791

Session:

Written by Guruba show Guruba profile

Monday February 5 2001 05:15:57 AM

Surf spot: Riozinho, Brazil

Description:

Buddies:

Created: Monday February 5 2007 05:16:30 AM

Modified: Monday February 5 2007 05:16:30 AM

Hits: 1519

Session:

Written by bouki show bouki profile

Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Baobab, Senegal

Description:

Plutôt que Le Baobab, mieux vaux surfer l'embouchure de la Somone. C'est à 100 métres vers le nord :)

Buddies:

Created: Saturday December 9 2006 10:39:40 PM

Modified: Saturday December 9 2006 10:39:40 PM

Hits: 1727

Session:

Written by guitarturtle show guitarturtle profile

Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Frenchies, Australia

Nb waves ridden: 2

Length of the surf session: 0.5 min

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Bowl

Description:

 

I have surfed out here, the dangers are probably sharks and rocks.

The wave itself is not really fast or heavy, but probably can get heavy.

I think it could be a long bowly left in the right conditions

Downgrade from 'pro/kamikaze' to 'sometimes break'

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday March 16 2010 01:07:23 AM

Modified: Tuesday March 16 2010 01:07:23 AM

Hits: 1355

Session: WERRI

Written by werri show werri profile

Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Werri Beach, Australia

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 3

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Waves Quality:
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

My Comments: VERY GOOD... AND WERRI DOES BREAK LEFT
Session Highlight:
Comment on Swell, Waves and Wind:
Techniques to improve: GO OUT MOR OFTEN
Air Temperature:
Water Temperature: COLD

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday December 12 2006 12:27:49 PM

Modified: Tuesday December 12 2006 12:27:49 PM

Hits: 1472

Session: Epic Blackies

Written by Chuck D show Chuck D profile

Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Blackies, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: a few

Length of the surf session: 1.5 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2"

Fins: future fins:

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

My Comments:
Session Highlight:
Comment on Swell, Waves and Wind:
Techniques to improve:
Air Temperature:
Water Temperature:

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday December 19 2006 12:22:09 AM

Modified: Tuesday December 19 2006 12:22:09 AM

Hits: 817

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