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Surf session counter: 3663
Saturday December 22 2007 10:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Torrance Beach The Avenues, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Length of the surf session: 1.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'10 Fish
Weather and water temp: 55
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Went out with Tony and his friend from San Louis named Codi, whose girlfirend's dad owns San Louis Surf. First session with new fish. Burnout was crowded so we surfed Ave I. Backwash was strong. Waves were big, and I caught a couple, but wasn't able to ride any of them.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday December 25 2007 09:20:11 PM
Modified: Tuesday December 25 2007 09:20:11 PM
Hits: 477
Friday December 21 2007 09:30:00 AM
Surf spot: The Bend, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: 30
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: bodyboard
Weather and water temp: hot day,cold water.very windy
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Ledgey
- Hollow
- Tubular
- Mutant
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Close out
Description:
i surfed wamberal first for around anhour and a half,shit waves totaly blown out strong on shore wind.went to tezza got good waves at the bend more protected from wind than wambii.the bend had soild little waves, closeouts throwing out wide sucking up will off banks lots of fun.good open barrels fast sections to hit plenty of speed,unlike wambii early powreless waves waste of time,the bend made up 10 times over.nice session
Buddies:
Created: Saturday December 22 2007 10:12:15 AM
Modified: Saturday December 22 2007 10:12:15 AM
Hits: 944
Thursday December 20 2007 07:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Barber's Point - Coast Guard Jetty, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 15-20 over 3 days
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 9' 0
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: comfortable
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
We rented a cabin for three days at Nimitz beach right on the cove. I was able to surf this break at sunrise every morning for about two hours and never saw another surfer, several turtles and one shark but no surfers. The waves were not epic in fact they averaged about waste to shoulder with the very rare head high. Surfing the south in the winter is always hit or miss, but also very few people. Trying to surf after the trades picked up was futile as the already small swell was blown out and choppy. I will be returning in the spring to catch an awesome sunrise swell with a beautiful view of the south shore to Diamondhead.
Buddies:
Created: Monday December 24 2007 04:29:16 PM
Modified: Monday December 24 2007 04:32:35 PM
Hits: 1140
Tuesday December 18 2007 06:40:00 AM
Surf spot: Forries shorey, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 30
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: nmd bodyboard
Weather and water temp: water very very warm but lots of wind
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Soft
- Ordinary
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
strong wind picked up from early in the morning, very choppy.hard to even paddle into some waves.got a some nice wedging ramps good sections to hit at times.with such powerless swell any wind at all let alone the winds of today leaves no chance of good waves.
Buddies:
Created: Monday December 17 2007 11:53:45 PM
Modified: Monday December 17 2007 11:53:45 PM
Hits: 779
Sunday December 16 2007 05:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Mocambique, Brazil
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'11 weatherley
Fins: K 2.1
Weather and water temp: cloudy / good
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday December 23 2007 11:21:11 PM
Modified: Sunday December 23 2007 11:21:11 PM
Hits: 1042
Sunday December 16 2007 10:00:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 15-25
Length of the surf session: 2h30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7'6
Fins: fcs
Weather and water temp: really good but cold
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Powerful
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday December 18 2007 10:14:30 AM
Modified: Tuesday December 18 2007 10:14:30 AM
Hits: 458
Sunday December 16 2007 09:00:00 AM
Surf spot: 1st Street Jetty, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind Strength: Very strong
Nb waves ridden: 10+
Length of the surf session: 4 hours
Surfboard ridden: BZ Hubb
Weather and water temp: a:61°F w:53°
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
Description:
big low went right off the coast night before
warm SW > WSW winds
25+ mph offshore winds, strong ground swell held up all morning and winds didnt kill swell as fast as usual due to more powerful swell
a few overhead sets
very bad east current in water
best peak was 1 1/2 - 2nd street
had one left large dry barrel, mostly large and long open face turns
Buddies:
Created: Monday December 17 2007 09:01:25 PM
Modified: Monday December 17 2007 09:01:25 PM
Hits: 928
Saturday December 15 2007 10:00:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0" Fish
Weather and water temp: Air: 1°C ! Water: 13°C
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Fast
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Close out
Description:
The surf was bad all along the coast yesterday... I just went into the water to have a surf without any illusion on the quality...Still only close out.... I want to move in other regions !
Buddies:
Created: Sunday December 16 2007 11:06:42 AM
Modified: Sunday December 16 2007 11:09:36 AM
Hits: 703
Saturday December 15 2007 07:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Queens, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: 9' 0
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: rainy / warm
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
A small winter south bump came in with some E/NE trades at 10-15. Conditions were glassy but small and crowded. It was a fun day with some new fiends who are a bit more familiar with the town breaks and crowds. It was a very nice way to start a rainy Saturday.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday December 16 2007 06:22:19 PM
Modified: Sunday December 16 2007 06:24:41 PM
Hits: 1065
Friday December 14 2007 12:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Ventura Point, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: lots
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: Longboard
Fins: Single
Weather and water temp: Sunny / Chilly Water
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Today I paddled out during my lunch break to "de-stress" myself from the ridiculous work day I was having.
Eventhough the surf was incredibly small (waist high and mushy) I at least fill 100% better then I would I had NOT gone out.
Sometimes just getting out there for a quick session makes a world of difference in my life :)
Sounds like we'll have more surf in the next few days - STOKED!
Buddies:
Created: Friday December 14 2007 11:33:17 PM
Modified: Friday December 14 2007 11:33:17 PM
Hits: 922
Friday December 14 2007 11:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Praia Mole, Brazil
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'9 weatherley
Fins: MT + YU
Weather and water temp: cloudy / good
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday December 23 2007 11:16:52 PM
Modified: Sunday December 23 2007 11:16:52 PM
Hits: 541
Friday December 14 2007 10:00:00 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 1
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Weather and water temp: Air: cold -2°C, Water: 13°C
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Close out
Description:
I expected that after the big tempest of the past 2 weeks, the sandbanks will be better. But the nightmare continues: beautiful sunny day, long swell but it's still unsurfable !
Check the 2 pics below: no way to surf
Buddies:
Created: Friday December 14 2007 01:17:33 PM
Modified: Friday December 14 2007 01:19:39 PM
Hits: 797
Friday December 14 2007 09:00:00 AM
Surf spot: The Bend, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 20-30
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: bodyboard
Weather and water temp: 21C good temp 4 the weather of late
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Close out
Description:
went 4 wave with clint to tezza surfed the bend the best swell in long time shame there were no sand banks.all sets closing out not even time to bottom turn before wave closed out ,no time to hit anything.got a few good close out barrels with some size ,but as always its quality not quanity i want.slightly crowded.cant complain best wave 4 long time.great weather very hot.
Buddies:
Created: Friday December 14 2007 07:51:04 AM
Modified: Friday December 14 2007 07:51:04 AM
Hits: 707
Friday December 14 2007 08:00:22 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: muchas
Length of the surf session: 4 hours
Waves height: 3m-3.5m / 10ft-12ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
Description:
La mejor sesión de éste año, incluso mejor que Dean.
Huracan Lola trajo unas montañas de agua...
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday December 18 2007 07:51:35 PM
Modified: Tuesday December 18 2007 07:51:35 PM
Hits: 1957
Thursday December 13 2007 12:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Praia Mole, Brazil
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 6
Length of the surf session: 0:45 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'11 weatherley
Fins: K2
Weather and water temp: sunny / good
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday December 23 2007 11:14:46 PM
Modified: Sunday December 23 2007 11:14:46 PM
Hits: 425
Wednesday December 12 2007 08:54:01 PM
Surf spot: South Point, Barbados
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6.3
Fins: 3
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Great wave - at last surfing from the Uk in board shorts. Fun, punchy left with fast take off and with the right lined up wave long long rides. Very easy to master once you get to your feet quick and line up for section after section. Good local surfers so respect the place, everyone is prety friendly with a mellow vibe if your not getting in anyones way. i was getting in the water every day for about 7.30am with only a couple out and getting plently of rides. Get's busiy about 4 ish and hustly; everyones padding up aginst the rip all the time to get in postion to get the longer rides. best wave i surfed on the island.
Buddies:
Created: Friday January 4 2008 09:00:33 PM
Modified: Friday January 4 2008 09:00:33 PM
Hits: 2341
Tuesday December 11 2007 10:30:39 AM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1h30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'2
Fins: fcs
Weather and water temp: good
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday December 18 2007 10:12:53 AM
Modified: Tuesday December 18 2007 10:12:53 AM
Hits: 492
Saturday December 8 2007 03:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Barranquito, Peru
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: Fanboard 6'7"
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: nice and shiny
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
La elección de la playa fue mala desde un principio por el señor talavera, y bueno, ni modo.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday December 9 2007 12:36:08 AM
Modified: Sunday December 9 2007 12:36:08 AM
Hits: 1290
Saturday December 8 2007 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Short Sands, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10+
Length of the surf session: 2.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 8'7"
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: sunny, 5c
Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
The water was pretty brown because of the storm, but there were a bunch of people out. I saw some frost on the drive out to the coast. It was fun, but died down in about an an hour and a half.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday December 11 2007 11:37:04 PM
Modified: Tuesday December 11 2007 11:37:04 PM
Hits: 1184
Friday December 7 2007 09:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Wamberal, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 25-30
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: bodyboard
Weather and water temp: the warmest water temp 4 ages,very sunny hot day
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Soft
- Ordinary
- Fun
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
small waves as per norm fun times thoe,the water is now the warmest it been in a long time.the size of surf 4 many of the past weeks is shit,need some swell soon.checked forresters beach no waves ended up at wambii not too good.
Buddies:
Created: Friday December 7 2007 11:09:29 AM
Modified: Friday December 7 2007 11:09:29 AM
Hits: 750
Thursday December 6 2007 12:00:00 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 12
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Weather and water temp: warm, almost!
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Fun
- Ledgey
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Great wave, really fun, good for begginners. dad got some awesome waves.
Buddies:
Created: Saturday December 8 2007 10:27:14 PM
Modified: Saturday December 8 2007 10:27:14 PM
Hits: 1687
Thursday December 6 2007 09:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Flynns Reef, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 6
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Weather and water temp: cold water, beatiful weather
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak
Description:
Really good day, great weather. when i went out there were only two guys there! then 2 more came. nice clean waves right into the shore. But the surf was dying off and everybody got out, so i got flynn's reef to myself!! i got a couple of waves then the swell died off and we went to YCW.
Buddies:
Created: Saturday December 8 2007 10:19:58 PM
Modified: Saturday December 8 2007 10:19:58 PM
Hits: 1456
Thursday December 6 2007 07:13:24 AM
Surf spot: Mavericks, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Length of the surf session: 4 hours
Surfboard ridden: 12'8.5" standup gun
Fins: single
Weather and water temp: foggy 52°
Waves height: Over 6m / 20ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
Description:
2 hour paddle out. went through the lagoon to the lineup. got lost in the fog. half mile past the green buoy and 1 mile south of the takeoff zone. picked up by John John Florence's video boat. scary session. Jeff Clark was not pleased - just shook his head in disgust and said, "heavy man...I don't even know how to respond to that one." Swell of the decade. It was pretty stupid to go out alone. That boat saved my ass.
Buddies:
Created: Thursday December 6 2007 07:29:29 AM
Modified: Thursday December 6 2007 07:29:29 AM
Hits: 2133
Thursday December 6 2007 06:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Ventura Point, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: So many
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: Short board
Fins: Tri-Fin
Weather and water temp: Partly Cloudy / Cold Water
Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft
Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
Description:
One of my best friends, Larry, was visiting me from Hawaii a week ago. We were both lucky enought to catch C Street on a fat NW swell that rolled in.
The swell hit the day he arrived (Tuesday)....sets were dbl overhead but really messy. By Wendesday sets were way bigger and outta control. We at least got to see a few brave souls doing some Tow-Ins at my locat spot (a very rare occasion)
By Thursday things got really fun for us. We caught our first session early in the morning around 6:30am. Wave heights were a few feet overhead and kinda tricky due to the fact that it way outta control the day before.
Things really got interesting later in the afternoon when we paddled out for the evening glass off. I would call the session border line epic for the simple fact that I was suring some sizeable waves with one of the best friends I guy could ever have!!!!
Buddies:
Created: Friday December 14 2007 11:43:21 PM
Modified: Friday December 14 2007 11:43:21 PM
Hits: 529
Thursday December 6 2007 03:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Woolamai, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Weather and water temp: good
Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft
Waves Quality:
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak
Description:
Great left hander, got some pretty good waves.
Buddies:
Created: Saturday December 8 2007 10:34:17 PM
Modified: Saturday December 8 2007 10:34:17 PM
Hits: 1414
Wednesday December 5 2007 03:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Praia Mole, Brazil
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 8
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'9 weatherley
Fins: CRV + YU
Weather and water temp: showers / cool
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday December 23 2007 11:10:33 PM
Modified: Sunday December 23 2007 11:10:33 PM
Hits: 469
Wednesday December 5 2007 10:24:43 AM
Surf spot: Bolsa Chica, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 7
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: shortboard
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: warm/60
Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday December 6 2007 03:29:38 AM
Modified: Thursday December 6 2007 03:29:38 AM
Hits: 973
Wednesday December 5 2007 10:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Flynns Reef, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: 3
Length of the surf session: 1.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5"9' thruster
Weather and water temp: cold
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Soft
- Ordinary
- Ledgey
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak
Description:
Waves were really bumpy.
Buddies:
Created: Saturday December 8 2007 09:57:06 PM
Modified: Saturday December 8 2007 09:57:06 PM
Hits: 1359
Wednesday December 5 2007 10:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Bolsa Chica, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 1
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: Bodyboard
Fins: Custom X
Weather and water temp: 55
Waves height: 3m-3.5m / 10ft-12ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Went out with Cook just for the experience. The waves were huge and the first time we tried to get out, we couldn't make it past the white water. When I finally made it out after resting, I found myself all alone in huge waves on a body board I hadn't ridden in well over a year. Two surfers paddled out to join me but they got pounded by a huge wave. After uneasily relaxing beyond the break, I caught one in and called it a day. Easily the biggest waves I've ever been in.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday December 25 2007 09:27:34 PM
Modified: Tuesday December 25 2007 09:27:34 PM
Hits: 543
Wednesday December 5 2007 10:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Refugio, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 20-30
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: longy
Fins: 1
Weather and water temp: 60/55
Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft
Waves Quality:
- Mutant
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
insane outside at low tide (1PM)
pitching wall though sectiony
uncrowded
probably best at Poles that day or El Cap (100+ units out)
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday January 2 2008 06:00:32 AM
Modified: Wednesday January 2 2008 06:00:32 AM
Hits: 521
Wednesday December 5 2007 07:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Seal Beach, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: several good ones
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: SuperFish
Fins: 2
Weather and water temp: 60F/70F
Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
- Close out
Description:
Big Wednesday is coming for Christmas ... two huge storms are converging 700 miles out for a direct hit on the California coast and still building with 25 foot faces expected ... woo nelly!
"Today (Monday) has been the proverbial calm before the storm. Outer water indicators are now going off, signaling swell is on the way. Surf will build Tuesday, peaking Wednesday with impressive size. The systems bringing this significant swell-event have continued to move towards our coastline, keeping their strength along the way. The storms kicking up this swell are now only 700-1000 miles from our shores, maintaining dangerously high seas. Now that offshore buoys are picking this up and models are in short range, the forecast can be refined even more...so here it goes...
Right now, the California Buoy has been hovering between 26 and 31 feet with 14-second periods over the past 8 hours or so, signaling the first of two swaths of swell headed our way. This has already hit most buoys along the Oregon coast with 25- 36-foot seas. In fact, the Tillamook, OR Buoy gets the gold star this afternoon, recording seas over 45 feet just a few hours ago. Closer to the California coast though things have been relatively quiet with the San Francisco buoy at 11 feet with 11-second periods, and the Cape San Martin buoy off the Central Coast at 6 feet with 14-second periods. Offshore buoys in SoCal are hovering around 2-3 feet with 13-second periods, but that will change rather soon.
As of this afternoon, all models are in full agreement with the buoys, and they're all saying the same thing: Batten down the hatches; some big surf is on the way. This will be the biggest swell of 2007 to hit the California coast. This doesn't mean it will be the "best" swell, nor does it translate into the safest swell by any means. Powerful wave energy will be hitting the coast, and to err on the side of caution to everyone, I have taken the high road on the forecast, giving the biggest case scenario.
In short, we're still pretty much on track since my last report Sunday morning with just a few tweaks in timing for various areas. To sum up the event, this swell will be from two strong storms with the first swath building on Tuesday with 270-degree energy and 14-second periods, then the second on Wednesday from again 270 degrees, but with long, 17- 19-second periods. The direct west angle means there'll be practically no loss from angular spreading decay, and the low angle will allow south facing breaks to see impressive size from the wrap. BUT...not all that glitters is gold...
A direct west angle has some downsides for SoCal. First, many direct west facing breaks could see close-out conditions; south facing breaks, where size will be smaller, would likely have better lines. The second pitfall to the 270-degree angle is that there will inevitably be shadowing from Catalina, affecting the SoCal coastline from San Pedro south to San Onofre. Areas affected by the island blockage will see smaller conditions as a result.
With this in mind, working the numbers this afternoon, here's how I'm calling it:
Tuesday the 4th WNW swell will increase as the first swath of 270-degree energy arrives with 14-second periods. By early to midmorning, areas north of LA should see sets running head high to a couple feet overhead at west facing breaks, then DOH by noon or so. Areas south of LA should lag by about 2-3 hours. By evening, west facing breaks could see size running 10-12 feet on the face. Since this swell is angled direct west, south facing breaks should pick up a good amount of wrap. Note though that as this swell fills in, there'll be an increasing risk of rip currents, especially during the outgoing tides. Alongshore currents are also a concern. Caution is strongly advised. As for winds, it looks like some NNE winds will pick up along the coast, but should stay below 14 mph in most spots, averaging 7-11 mph max most everywhere. More on the winds here, tides here, and wave heights here.
Wednesday the 5th gets even bigger big as the second surge in swell hits the coast. This too will be from 270, but with periods super long (for a NW'er) at 17-19 seconds. ETA for the peak of this swell should occur between 1:00 AM and 3:00 AM on Wednesday, but it'll still be big all day. Early to midmorning sessions are looking at surf at direct west facing breaks -- not affected by the Catalina Island shadowing -- running at least 15 feet on the faces. Some set waves could have face heights reaching 18 or 20 feet. Note that not all waves will have this size, and sets could be sporadic in size as well, ranging anywhere from relative calm at slightly overhead to monster walls at other times. South facing breaks working the wrap will be smaller, perhaps maxing out at DOH on the biggest sets. Also, please note that once this swell fills in, its long periods will no doubt make for disparity in size between breaks of varying bathymetry and westerly exposure. Breaks with steeper bathymetry that shoal well and refract the westerly energy ideally—especially those with excellent westerly exposure—will see bigger sets than the slower sloped, longboard-type breaks.
Additionally, this swell's long periods can produce deceiving lulls at times. Once this swell fills in, many waves may look surfable, while every now and then bigger waves could roll through. Adequate observation prior to a paddle-out is warranted and highly advised. And as mentioned previously, this swell will inevitably increase the risk of rip currents, especially during the outgoing tides. Alongshore currents are also a major concern.
At the sake of sounding like a broken record...this swell will not be for the inexperienced. Between the back- and board-breaking size, inevitable rip currents, alongshore currents, and likely incessant nature of this swell, it may be a good day to watch from shore. Know your limits, play it safe, and when it doubt, just stay out.
As for tide and wind on Wednesday, it looks like winds will be rather calm or lightly offshore in the AM. The tide though will be extremely high around dawn, receding throughout the morning, which will increase the risk of rip currents then.
Thursday the 6th it looks like this swell will start backing down, but models today continue to point to surf running DOH or so."
Did it live up to all the hype ... no. Read Surf Trips.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday December 4 2007 05:47:00 AM
Modified: Thursday December 6 2007 06:50:17 PM
Hits: 571
Wednesday December 5 2007 03:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Smiths Beach, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1.5 hours
Weather and water temp: cold
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Soft
- Fun
- Ledgey
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Fun session, got some ok waves.
Buddies:
Created: Saturday December 8 2007 10:09:26 PM
Modified: Saturday December 8 2007 10:09:26 PM
Hits: 960
Monday December 3 2007 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Praia Mole, Brazil
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'9 weatherley
Fins: CRV + K
Weather and water temp: cloudy / good
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday December 23 2007 10:59:07 PM
Modified: Sunday December 23 2007 10:59:07 PM
Hits: 271
Sunday December 2 2007 05:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Triangulo, Peru
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 1
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: Fanboard 6'7"
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: nice but cold
Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft
Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Hollow
- Mutant
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Un primer intento en Ala Moana, que es mi playa preferida, casi me mata... media hora luchando contra una corriente, al final salí con vida.
Probamos Triángulo, y la verdad que valió la pena, una ola bien pagada.
Buddies:
Created: Monday December 3 2007 02:21:07 AM
Modified: Monday December 3 2007 02:21:07 AM
Hits: 1282
Sunday December 2 2007 01:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Pavilosta, Latvia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10+
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Fins: FCS
Weather and water temp: 7C/7C
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
Description:
S wind
Buddies:
Created: Monday December 3 2007 08:05:55 AM
Modified: Monday December 3 2007 08:05:55 AM
Hits: 2157
Sunday December 2 2007 11:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Praia Mole, Brazil
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 0:40 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'9 weatherley
Fins: CRV + YU
Weather and water temp: sunny / good
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday December 23 2007 10:56:26 PM
Modified: Sunday December 23 2007 10:56:26 PM
Hits: 431
Sunday December 2 2007 10:30:03 AM
Surf spot: El Palmar, Spain
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: ...
Length of the surf session: 2,5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6,4 Peter Daniels
Fins: FCS 3000 Carbon
Weather and water temp: 10º and 18º
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday December 18 2007 08:48:51 AM
Modified: Tuesday December 18 2007 08:48:51 AM
Hits: 1806
Sunday December 2 2007 04:22:28 AM
Surf spot: Lancelin (back beach), Australia
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday November 2 2008 04:22:53 AM
Modified: Sunday November 2 2008 04:22:53 AM
Hits: 861
Saturday December 1 2007 02:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Collignon, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: 5-6
Length of the surf session: 1h hours
Surfboard ridden: 7'6
Fins: fcs
Weather and water temp: ok
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Ordinary
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday December 4 2007 09:28:00 AM
Modified: Tuesday December 4 2007 09:28:00 AM
Hits: 907
Saturday December 1 2007 12:00:00 PM
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 20
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5´9 Weatherley
Fins: CRV + YU
Weather and water temp: sunny good
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday December 23 2007 10:51:03 PM
Modified: Sunday December 23 2007 10:51:03 PM
Hits: 512
Friday November 30 2007 09:31:58 PM
Surf spot: Stuart Rocks, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: BZ Hubb
Weather and water temp: Sunny / Warm
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
- Fun
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday December 5 2007 09:33:47 PM
Modified: Wednesday December 5 2007 09:43:01 PM
Hits: 1214
Thursday November 29 2007 09:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Wamberal, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Nb waves ridden: 10 to 15
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: bodyboard nmd
Weather and water temp: hot day ,nice and warmwater temp
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Soft
- Ordinary
Description:
happy b'day not .went 4 wave at wambii not very good.very hot day got a bit sunburnt.checked foresters beach first flat as a lake pittiful.got no waves worth filming .no sand banks and no swell bad combo.
Buddies:
Created: Thursday November 29 2007 08:11:36 AM
Modified: Thursday November 29 2007 08:11:36 AM
Hits: 863
Thursday November 29 2007 09:26:09 AM
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday November 29 2007 09:26:26 AM
Modified: Thursday November 29 2007 09:26:26 AM
Hits: 1104
Wednesday November 28 2007 03:07:47 PM
Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 8
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Weather and water temp: Air: cold, 1°C Water:13°C
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Fast
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Still no good sandbanks on the coast. The swell was pretty correct but as it's a nightmare, I just get close-outs. I caught few good ones with a fun grab air (my first) and few good turns.
As the weather was sunny, it was a pleasure to be out event it was the session of the year... and it was my birthday
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday November 28 2007 03:10:49 PM
Modified: Saturday December 1 2007 07:40:31 AM
Hits: 940
Tuesday November 27 2007 08:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Ocean Park, Santa Monica, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: Jezebel
Fins: 2+1
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday December 30 2007 08:20:58 PM
Modified: Sunday December 30 2007 08:20:58 PM
Hits: 614
Monday November 26 2007 10:36:29 PM
Surf spot: Stuart Rocks, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Length of the surf session: 5 hours
Surfboard ridden: BZ Hubb
Weather and water temp: Sunny / Warm
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Fun
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday December 4 2007 10:38:05 PM
Modified: Wednesday December 5 2007 09:43:57 PM
Hits: 1021
Monday November 26 2007 09:45:00 AM
Surf spot: Barra da Lagoa, Brazil
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: 5'9 weatherley
Fins: MT+ 3D
Weather and water temp: cloudy / cool
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
Description:
Perdi minha 3D... escapou da prancha!!!!
Buddies:
Created: Saturday December 22 2007 11:52:48 PM
Modified: Saturday December 22 2007 11:52:48 PM
Hits: 515
Sunday November 25 2007 10:32:53 PM
Surf spot: Stuart Rocks, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Length of the surf session: 5 hours
Surfboard ridden: BZ Hubb
Weather and water temp: Sunny / Warm
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Fast
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
First time surfing the rocks.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday December 4 2007 10:36:02 PM
Modified: Wednesday December 5 2007 09:43:38 PM
Hits: 979
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