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Surf session counter: 3911
Sunday September 14 2008 04:50:24 PM
Created: Sunday September 14 2008 04:50:39 PM
Modified: Sunday September 14 2008 04:50:39 PM
Sunday September 14 2008 04:44:17 PM
Created: Sunday September 14 2008 04:44:50 PM
Modified: Sunday September 14 2008 04:44:50 PM
Sunday September 14 2008 04:00:00 PM
Maggie's sister Laura joined us for her first trip in the water
Created: Wednesday September 17 2008 09:35:10 PM
Modified: Wednesday September 17 2008 09:35:10 PM
Sunday September 14 2008 11:00:00 AM
Looked deceiving at first. Looked really choppy, the wave periods were probably 4 seconds.
But when I went in, they were fairly powerful for their size.
When low-tide went to high-tide, the breaks were long and good. When high went to low, the waves got shallower towards the shore.
Called my friend Wes halfway through the day, and we surfed to the evening.
Careful on the right towards the mouth of the river. Very shallow beach with a couple rocks.
Gulls started showing up in the middle of the afternoon and swarming the middle of the ocean. Freaked me out because of sharks, but Wes assured me that it's probably just baitfish.
Created: Thursday September 18 2008 04:15:05 PM
Modified: Thursday September 18 2008 04:15:39 PM
Sunday September 14 2008 09:15:00 AM
Nothing to say: North winds + low tide = bad waves, close outs and a bad session.
the only positive thing is that I have a thousands of big fishes in the water ! very impressive...
Created: Monday September 15 2008 09:08:17 AM
Modified: Wednesday September 24 2008 10:10:30 PM
Sunday September 14 2008 09:07:21 AM
Created: Sunday September 14 2008 09:55:59 PM
Modified: Sunday September 14 2008 09:55:59 PM
Saturday September 13 2008 12:20:04 PM
Created: Tuesday September 16 2008 05:53:51 PM
Modified: Tuesday September 16 2008 05:53:51 PM
Saturday September 13 2008 11:23:29 AM
Good first outing - great weather.
Managed to get one great wave - felt like I was going supersonic (til I hit the beach!)
Good fun - just need to work on the timing.
Only problem was the difficulty getting back into the water as the tide came in. As it got closer inland the power in the waves actually kept throwing me back out - not only me but the other three boarders who were also there (so I felt a little better).
Created: Saturday September 13 2008 09:26:55 PM
Modified: Saturday September 13 2008 09:26:55 PM
Saturday September 13 2008 10:00:50 AM
Created: Tuesday September 16 2008 05:52:45 PM
Modified: Tuesday September 16 2008 05:52:45 PM
Saturday September 13 2008 10:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday September 17 2008 09:33:40 PM
Modified: Wednesday September 17 2008 09:33:40 PM
Saturday September 13 2008 09:00:00 AM
LOTS OF FUN EARLY. RODE ONE OF MIKES BOARDS, CAUGHT LOTS OF FUN LINES.
Created: Sunday September 14 2008 12:25:49 PM
Modified: Sunday September 14 2008 12:25:49 PM
Saturday September 13 2008 08:00:54 AM
Created: Tuesday September 16 2008 05:51:31 PM
Modified: Tuesday September 16 2008 05:51:31 PM
Saturday September 13 2008 08:00:00 AM
GOT SOME SMACKS!!!
Created: Monday September 15 2008 02:16:53 AM
Modified: Monday September 15 2008 02:16:53 AM
Friday September 12 2008 06:48:06 PM
Created: Tuesday September 16 2008 05:49:12 PM
Modified: Tuesday September 16 2008 05:49:12 PM
Friday September 12 2008 08:00:00 AM
GOT SOME TUBES!!
Created: Monday September 15 2008 02:20:00 AM
Modified: Monday September 15 2008 02:20:00 AM
Friday September 12 2008 06:00:00 AM
MORNIN TIME FUN W/ GARY. CAUGHT BOUT' 5 FUN CORNERS AND SECTIONS RIGHT OFF BAT. THEN A FEW MORE HERE AND THERE AS THINGS WENT ON GREAT DAY GOOD CONDTIONS NOT SO MUCH OF A KOOK ANYMORE.
Created: Sunday September 14 2008 12:36:20 PM
Modified: Sunday September 14 2008 12:36:20 PM
Friday September 12 2008 12:06:30 AM
The river was chest to shoulder high with occasional bigger sets this morning, 6:30AM-9:30AM. Started off at Middles then moved over to the north wall at Baracudas. Clean, glassy conditions with some nice peaks. Take off deep, run out in front of the wave, then pull a hard bottom turn followed by a backhand snap off the lip then work the shoulder all the way across Middles to the south wall at Crabs.
Created: Wednesday September 10 2008 08:25:10 PM
Modified: Thursday September 11 2008 05:01:37 AM
Thursday September 11 2008 12:30:00 PM
Kewalo's was sick today!!!
Created: Thursday September 11 2008 04:51:33 AM
Modified: Thursday September 11 2008 04:51:33 AM
Thursday September 11 2008 08:00:00 AM
Wave were so rippable!!! u could smack the shit out of it, do big turns, and boost on the inside!!!
Created: Thursday September 11 2008 04:54:09 AM
Modified: Thursday September 11 2008 04:54:09 AM
Wednesday September 10 2008 05:14:21 AM
North side of pier, Hurricane Gustav swell...nuttin' but closeout lefts barrel shorebreak
Created: Saturday September 13 2008 01:19:11 AM
Modified: Saturday September 13 2008 01:19:11 AM
Wednesday September 10 2008 12:56:01 AM
I stayed at Padang Padang Surf Camp & I scored Padang Padang epic. The guides all surfed really good & the food was great.... Padang Padang is fickle wave as it needs a very big swell but it's a longer ride than Hawaii Pipeline and the wind is consistetly offshore.
Created: Wednesday January 14 2009 12:59:50 AM
Modified: Wednesday January 14 2009 12:59:50 AM
Monday September 8 2008 08:00:45 PM
Created: Monday September 8 2008 08:12:40 PM
Modified: Monday September 8 2008 08:12:40 PM
Monday September 8 2008 07:56:59 PM
Created: Monday September 8 2008 07:59:11 PM
Modified: Monday September 8 2008 07:59:11 PM
Monday September 8 2008 02:31:04 PM
After work, light wind push up wave around 2 feets... a nice way to spend this end-summer days...and the swells are coming... :)
Created: Tuesday September 9 2008 10:33:21 AM
Modified: Tuesday September 9 2008 10:33:21 AM
Monday September 8 2008 06:00:00 AM
IT WAS JUST OKAY TODAY. LOTS OF CLOSEOUTS(MAN IM GOOD AT RIDING WHITE WATER). CAUGHT JUST A FEW SHORT SECTIONS. A COUPLE GUYS CAUGHT SOME FUN STUFF BUT, MOST EVERYBODY WAS DOIN JUST AS GOOD AS ME.
Created: Monday September 8 2008 09:02:45 PM
Modified: Monday September 8 2008 09:02:45 PM
Sunday September 7 2008 04:00:00 PM
Tyler and I caravanned up to Jenness after the waves were dying out in The Wall.
Jenness is always big on the North end after everything else dies out in NH, and today was no different.
Started getting really difficult paddling out because the waves were too close in together. Exhausting, actually.
God Bless the hurricane.
Bad for the Hampton Seafood Festival, though. My wife showed up at the festival afterwards with Joni, and met up with them afterwards for free hot dogs, a burger and ice cream.
Created: Sunday September 21 2008 05:02:05 PM
Modified: Sunday September 21 2008 05:02:05 PM
Sunday September 7 2008 01:00:00 PM
Started out the day here.
Died out by 4, though. Met another dude, Tyler, and we moved north to Jenness when this spot died out.
Created: Sunday September 21 2008 05:06:46 PM
Modified: Sunday September 21 2008 05:06:46 PM
Sunday September 7 2008 12:29:10 PM
Created: Tuesday September 16 2008 12:32:05 PM
Modified: Tuesday September 16 2008 12:32:05 PM
Saturday September 6 2008 09:00:00 AM
little more size then blackies but, lots more wind caught a few okay corners nothin to talk about. Caught lots of close-outs, shape couldv'e been better. Monday goin to newport at 36th should be better.
Created: Monday September 8 2008 12:30:38 AM
Modified: Monday September 8 2008 12:30:38 AM
Saturday September 6 2008 06:30:00 AM
so small had to make it fun by snaking mike and tryin to noseride(had to nose ride to catch wave)
Created: Monday September 8 2008 12:24:44 AM
Modified: Monday September 8 2008 12:24:44 AM
Friday September 5 2008 04:00:00 PM
Went to Refugio, waves look so bad we almost didn't get in. But ended up with a great session and got a lot of great rides. Realized that I am a goofy foot. Knowing this will help a lot.
Created: Tuesday September 9 2008 08:11:28 AM
Modified: Tuesday September 9 2008 08:12:00 AM
Thursday September 4 2008 12:49:14 AM
Finally some good waves! Dawn patrol "Ray Bay" San Gabriel Rivermouth, Los Alamitos Bay, Seal Beach. Perfect conditions, after week's of onshore, South 'Catalina Eddy' wind and knee high crumble. Early morning negative, building to a five foot plus late morning high tide and smooth glassy conditions. A mix of fading NW windswelll and building S/SSE groundswell from Chile with bigger southern hemi, coming up from Pitcairn, peaking Thursday plus new swell from New Zealand still in the forecast!
The river was chest to shoulder high with occasional bigger sets on the the tide push. At low tide we had 'point break' lines coming in from the 'Middle's' across 'Crabs'. A little walled with sections but pick the right wave and fun, fun, fun. As the tide came in the break moved over to the north wall at 'Baracuda's' and got bigger and better!
Wave of the morning: Mark Burke's rail grabbing, back-door peak, tube.
For about an hour it was going off! Head high peaks ... long rights across the bowl or snappy short left-handers. Got worked on a big left peak. Took off deep in the bowl, came up and out off the bottom as the lip peeled over, then the backwash and refraction off the breakwater pushed the wave back into itself! It jumped up to a couple of feet overhead and the wall vanished into a square box! I started free falling down the sheer face, then it concussed, boom, on back of my board (thought it was going to break in half). Just swatted my board like a bug and blew me up ... I had my wetsuit top pulled down to my waist and I finished up nose down, with my wetsuit around my knee's and my bare butt sticking up in the soup!
Wednesday morning update:
This morning we had plenty of size from building SE/SW southern hemi swells but no NW to cross it up, so pretty walled out. If you picked the right wave it was "Speed Racer" all the way!
The fog was a big problem, it rolled in so thick, at one point you could barely see the end of your board! I was out at Cuda's by the north wall when visibility vanished. Got totally disorientated, drifted over to the middle of the river mouth and started paddling the wrong way, out to sea! If I had come across another lone surfer with a better sense of direction, I would have finished up in the shipping lanes!
After that nasty shake-up, paddled inside, caught a set wave across and stayed in the pack at Crab's by the south breakwall! Fog never did lift while I was out there, even past 9 AM. You still could not see the breakwall, as I quickly found out. Hooked up on a nice shoulder high screamer across the inside sandbar on my 7'2" Super Fish. Steep take off, couple of quick pumps across the walll and it started to tube, crouched down and grabbed the outside rail ... just grinding; then I saw a dark shape rushing at me, holy shit ... the rocks ... BAIL OUT!
Wave of the morning: Surfer Tom's high line, high speed, wall.
Thursday Morning update:
Clean, clean, clean but smaller and really crowded! Some nice nose ride's across the inside sandbar by Crab's. Photo thanx to Tom.
Check out them "Hot Legs"
Created: Wednesday September 3 2008 01:38:13 AM
Modified: Monday September 8 2008 07:04:30 PM
Wednesday September 3 2008 01:00:00 PM
Created: Thursday September 18 2008 08:01:35 PM
Modified: Thursday September 18 2008 08:01:35 PM
Tuesday September 2 2008 04:14:41 AM
Created: Sunday November 2 2008 04:16:03 AM
Modified: Sunday November 2 2008 04:16:03 AM
Monday September 1 2008 06:00:00 AM
bad sess predtion said 2-3ft poor to fair cond. also a big tide swing (-.1to5.1)swamped things out no shape had a few fun rides but overall was weak. at least i get to surf quit often
Created: Tuesday September 2 2008 07:40:03 PM
Modified: Tuesday September 2 2008 07:46:58 PM
Sunday August 31 2008 02:00:00 PM
Went to C-Street with Andri and his french friend Dad (Daaad). Went in at the far left side, surfed/paddled my way all the way to the right most peak, and then back. Probably 5 miles of paddling.
Created: Tuesday September 9 2008 08:06:26 AM
Modified: Tuesday September 9 2008 08:06:26 AM
Sunday August 31 2008 07:06:59 AM
i was out about 2 weeks ago it was only about 3-4ft clean n i have not ever seen as many cock heads out in one break in one day all the semi pros that live in nulla n emerald crew are all fuk wits dropping in on yu no matter wat i would have understood them droping in on me if i was out there giving them no respected but i was and they just put that bak in ur face when yu call a wave and if ur ever out there n theres a kid called baker he has braces n hes bout 17 if the cunt calls a wave just drop in on him hes the biggest faggot out
Created: Sunday August 31 2008 07:12:11 AM
Modified: Sunday August 31 2008 07:12:11 AM
Sunday August 31 2008 05:42:36 AM
Shorebreak lefts north side of pier, not epic like venice prob was but good...
Created: Monday September 1 2008 05:45:46 AM
Modified: Monday September 1 2008 05:45:46 AM
Saturday August 30 2008 08:30:00 AM
What a good surprise! I thought we will find only powerless 80cm. When I came at the top of the hill, I saw a incredible left whith noone on it... All surfers stayed on the right which was obviously less good. I just ran....I understand that it was because of the strong current.
Nethermind, I surfed nearly alone for 45 mn with incredible lefts. only one meter but the wave was cranking along a perfect sandbank. I have tried all the manoeuvers I knew !!!
After people came. Longboards were not very cool as they took waves without politness. We changed of surf spot but the tide was now too low.
show the potential of the wave.
Created: Saturday August 30 2008 02:46:34 PM
Modified: Saturday August 30 2008 02:46:34 PM
Thursday August 28 2008 09:30:00 AM
One more time with the new fish, trying to get some last waves out of this swell. Decent session, almost nobody out, but not too many waves either.
Created: Thursday August 28 2008 09:25:54 PM
Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 09:25:54 PM
Thursday August 28 2008 06:30:00 AM
Created: Friday August 29 2008 07:52:24 AM
Modified: Friday August 29 2008 07:53:05 AM
Wednesday August 27 2008 04:00:00 PM
Annie, Maggie and I went to campus for a session. It was mushy and a bit crowded (for the number of waves). Annie used the new fish board, and liked it. Got a ride on it.
Created: Thursday August 28 2008 09:23:40 PM
Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 09:23:40 PM
Wednesday August 27 2008 03:49:37 PM
Created: Thursday August 28 2008 05:52:01 PM
Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 05:52:01 PM