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Surf session counter: 3913
Wednesday July 22 2009 02:33:23 PM
Created: Friday July 3 2009 08:34:10 PM
Modified: Friday July 3 2009 08:34:10 PM
Wednesday July 22 2009 09:00:00 AM
The swell was building, having dropped off after the BongofbillsPro. The water was noticibly colder today but still fine in a 3/2. I got worked by a wave after about 20 minutes and my back started blocking and twinging - otherwise I'd have stayed in longer.
The waves were big on the sets but happily were quite catchabale at the Point. Had 4 long rides down past the beach and onto the next section (150m-200m+).... and did a rare thing for me.... stopped the session on a great wave - didn't do that usual kak of paddling back out for 'one last wave'....
Forecast sites showed it being 12ft - which made for nice waves at Point and some pretty hectic rides at Supers (not me ;-). The next day showed the forecast of 21ft swell..... happy that I was about 900km inland by then.
Created: Friday July 24 2009 09:10:16 PM
Modified: Friday July 24 2009 09:10:16 PM
Wednesday July 22 2009 07:30:00 AM
The swell was just rising. I had to work around with Gaby and came early before the meeting. We found beautiful waves: not big but fun small ones.
Gaby in action
Created: Friday July 24 2009 01:17:52 PM
Modified: Saturday July 25 2009 05:39:37 PM
Tuesday July 21 2009 06:43:07 PM
I didn't really get to go at a good time. I went late in the evening which was the only time I could go out. Low tide was in the early morning. But is a fun little place. All the people there were super cool and other than the water being a bit on the cold side. For small waves they were great fun.
Created: Tuesday July 21 2009 06:46:13 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 21 2009 06:46:13 PM
Tuesday July 21 2009 02:00:00 PM
Started surfing about 100m up from 'the point' towards impossibles - got a few nice waves and a couple of closeouts - then either the tide was changing or I was out of position because for ages I didn't get any waves. I eventually paddled down to the point and caught smoe more waves - the swell was noticably increasing and I got worked by a couple of waves - I realised I was not fit enough and so gave up for the day ;-)
Created: Thursday July 30 2009 12:40:05 PM
Modified: Thursday July 30 2009 12:40:05 PM
Monday July 20 2009 05:20:00 PM
Created: Thursday July 23 2009 09:42:35 AM
Modified: Thursday July 23 2009 09:42:35 AM
Monday July 20 2009 02:00:00 PM
Not knowing JBay we went in in the middle of Impossibles - and surprise surprise, found the waves really hard to catch for a couple of unfit lame-ass weekend warriors.... we eventually worked our way down to the point and finally had some fun waves.
Highlight was two separate pods of dolphins swimming by us, we saw them coing down the point in the waves - and they cruised past at arms length. vey cool.
Created: Thursday July 30 2009 12:51:11 PM
Modified: Thursday July 30 2009 12:51:11 PM
Sunday July 19 2009 02:00:45 PM
Today Dzhoara, my husband and I went to la ocho to paddle. This wasnt our plan, our plan was going to Pine Grove but it was too crowded. Id woken up from drinking heavilly and falling asleep with my contacts with a mega case of eye irritation and the only way I could actually do anything was with a bandage on my eye, so yes I looked like a pirate. Getting there took forever, it was equally crowded and I had to park about a mile away but I wasnt going home so I walked.
Once I got there we saw a group of people gathered and when I walked closer to see what it was and a few looked back it hit me. To the side there were about 20 boards, real boards not like the one I have and in the middle of the whole thing was a crown of flowers. Fuck!!! I quietly made myself scarse and headed for the water w DZ and hubby.
Dzhoara and I paddled back and forth and when we were comming out, the group was comming in... Im a very religious person and what I saw that day was..... beautifull, fucking beautifull. A huge group of surfers saying good bye the best way they know how, passing us bye in prayer. The energy was creepy, calming and ..... beautifull. Im in awe and if my time comes this is the way Id like to say my final goodbye but hopefully not yet....
Maferefun Olokum, Maferefum Yemaya.
Created: Friday September 11 2009 03:44:36 PM
Modified: Friday September 11 2009 03:44:36 PM
Sunday July 19 2009 06:00:00 AM
Onde carine, ma al mattino alle 6 con boardshort e licretta si battono le brocchette!!!!
Peccato perchè ogni tanto arrivavano serie da 3/4 onde intorno al metro.
Vista la direzione della mareggiata il numero delle sinistre era decisamente maggiore delle destre!
Created: Thursday July 23 2009 03:44:30 PM
Modified: Thursday July 23 2009 03:44:30 PM
Saturday July 18 2009 07:15:06 PM
Created: Monday July 20 2009 02:09:05 PM
Modified: Monday July 20 2009 02:09:35 PM
Saturday July 18 2009 04:00:00 PM
Only a quick bath. I waited for the wind to turn but it never happened and the swell was small.
Created: Sunday July 19 2009 10:19:14 AM
Modified: Sunday July 26 2009 03:12:48 PM
Saturday July 18 2009 05:15:32 AM
Created: Monday July 20 2009 02:07:25 PM
Modified: Monday July 20 2009 02:07:25 PM
Saturday July 18 2009 12:00:00 AM
All Day long.... Water was murky, but worth it! Rode the longboard, shortboard & the bodyboard. Great day!!!
***Lots of bait in the water - beach was a little crowded with swimmers***
Created: Wednesday August 12 2009 04:12:42 PM
Modified: Wednesday August 12 2009 04:12:42 PM
Friday July 17 2009 10:30:00 AM
A sea lion actually jumped over the tip of my board and nearly slaped me in the face.
Needless to say I almost fell off my board.
Created: Saturday July 18 2009 01:47:26 AM
Modified: Saturday July 18 2009 01:47:26 AM
Wednesday July 15 2009 05:00:00 PM
After several delays we finally paddled out by the pier quite late - ended up catching a few fun waves. Night was really fallen when we came back in - probably not a smart move surfing so late, definately would not have done this if the beaches weren't netted ;-)
Created: Thursday July 30 2009 12:31:58 PM
Modified: Thursday July 30 2009 12:31:58 PM
Wednesday July 15 2009 05:00:00 PM
Created: Wednesday April 6 2011 11:18:59 PM
Modified: Wednesday April 6 2011 11:18:59 PM
Tuesday July 14 2009 02:10:00 PM
It was my real first session: I went specially to have crappy and powereless waves to start slowly.It was honestly crappy waves but I got some fun with good turns.
Created: Thursday July 16 2009 02:12:26 PM
Modified: Thursday July 16 2009 02:12:26 PM
Sunday July 12 2009 11:30:00 AM
Kidsonly again :-(
1m swell was schedduled for the late afternoon ant t was there... but in Bidart at high tide, there is only a strong shorebreak and no surf is possible. I would recommand only low tide or mid tide.
Created: Monday July 13 2009 05:11:52 PM
Modified: Monday July 13 2009 05:11:52 PM
Saturday July 11 2009 11:30:00 AM
Very small waves(approx 50 cm). Took some small waves and mostly gave my fish to Maël for having some ride!
Created: Monday July 13 2009 05:09:29 PM
Modified: Monday July 13 2009 05:12:21 PM
Saturday July 11 2009 10:00:00 AM
I am back in the water. I have been seriously injured 2 monthes ago with a herniated cervical. It was my first session with an important moment: the first wave of my daughter !
Created: Saturday July 11 2009 08:19:51 PM
Modified: Saturday July 11 2009 08:19:51 PM
Friday July 10 2009 05:00:00 PM
Created: Wednesday April 6 2011 11:11:19 PM
Modified: Wednesday April 6 2011 11:11:55 PM
Friday July 10 2009 04:21:26 PM
Rainy on & off, but worth it. waves were short but powerful. Ty got to surf the "big girl" spot today. Water was murky.
Created: Wednesday August 12 2009 04:23:51 PM
Modified: Wednesday August 12 2009 04:23:51 PM
Friday July 10 2009 07:00:00 AM
Latest Update: July 9th, long period 190 degree southern hemi swell with chest to head high sets and glassy conditions combined with a minus low tide made for some real screamers from middles across Crabs! You only made a few all the way, you were really flying down the line! On my first wave barely made the takeoff then the fins started slipping sideways through the first section. Made it through that, no time for off the lips, just peeling too fast, got a cheater five up on nose for 50 yards before I got gobbled up! Wham, bam, thank you mam ...
Thursday morning last week, supposed to be poor to fair but some chest to shoulder high + sets coming in at Cuda's. Mostly green rollers on the high tide push with some morning sickness, but every now and then a gem!
Cuda's 7 AM Tuesday/Wednesday. The early morning haze burnt off by 8 AM and it must have been 75F already! No wind and glassy conditions until 10 AM when the normal summer light onshore sea breeze moved in. Knee to waist SW swell with a few chest high sets. Fade deep into the peak by the north sea wall then snap around on your backhand and run up the nose in the suckup on the inside sandbar or take off on the other side of the peak and pump through the middle of it then bounce off the lip as you come out on your forehand.
Only a few of us out there Deon with his inflatable SUP (when he lets the air out it comes out with a real bang, says it scares the shit out of all the dogs getting walked) Eric (Bongo Peterson) Uncle Jay and the lovely 16 year old Christine ... OK keep it clean boys. Note: Jay told me he saw Stuart (Bruce 11) at Bolsa Chica after escaping from custody last Monday ... walked over to his SUV and yelled "Hey Bruce" only to spot his wife Mary Kay ... he beat a hasty retreat!
Note Mr. Gangrene (from the Stingray hit) is going to be OK, he was going out for the first time in weeks ... his toe almost looks normal!
Created: Thursday July 2 2009 05:55:09 AM
Modified: Saturday July 11 2009 02:31:50 AM
Thursday July 9 2009 09:04:19 PM
there is a beginner wave and a nice surfschool in conil surfcamp-spain is the name
Created: Thursday July 9 2009 09:05:43 PM
Modified: Thursday July 9 2009 09:05:43 PM
Wednesday July 8 2009 11:30:00 AM
Incoming tide. 3.0 with a 3.8 at 1 pm. Besides the kelp, lots of waves. No crowds. Warm weather and little fun waves. Cowells was a freeway and this was open road surfing.
Created: Wednesday October 28 2009 11:37:16 PM
Modified: Wednesday October 28 2009 11:37:16 PM
Sunday July 5 2009 10:00:20 AM
Created: Monday July 6 2009 12:12:19 PM
Modified: Monday July 6 2009 12:12:19 PM
Sunday July 5 2009 08:05:28 AM
Created: Wednesday October 21 2009 08:06:06 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 21 2009 08:06:06 AM
Saturday July 4 2009 04:00:00 PM
Created: Monday July 6 2009 12:10:40 PM
Modified: Monday July 6 2009 12:10:40 PM
Thursday July 2 2009 01:13:40 PM
First off I gotta say this was by far the warmest and sunniest day I had ever seen at Westport mainly because I don't usually come here in the summer. But i bought myself a skimboard and wanted to try it out and when I checked the surf report I was surprised that the was a good swell! It was so big and the time peroid between waves was so short days before hand that the boats were forced stay in the harbor. It was more packed than usual but the waves and weather made up for it. I only caught a few cause Westhaven is like a washing machine, and got pounded by 2. But it was fun and I can't complain!
Created: Friday July 3 2009 06:57:33 PM
Modified: Friday July 3 2009 06:57:33 PM
Thursday July 2 2009 11:00:00 AM
Created: Thursday July 16 2009 11:35:25 PM
Modified: Thursday July 16 2009 11:36:40 PM
Monday June 29 2009 04:18:29 PM
Waves weren't standing well for the shortboard, so we rode the bodyboards. Very strong tide.
Created: Wednesday August 12 2009 04:20:52 PM
Modified: Wednesday August 12 2009 04:20:52 PM
Monday June 29 2009 02:30:00 PM
Created: Thursday July 2 2009 11:44:09 AM
Modified: Thursday July 2 2009 11:44:09 AM
Thursday June 25 2009 08:00:00 PM
A sorpresa una delle più belle serate di quest'anno ad Andora...
Eravamo in pochi ma mi sa che ce la ricorderemo per un bel pezzo!
Onde regolari, frananti, molto facili...
Destre e sinistre a volte anche belle lunghe
Created: Friday June 26 2009 09:56:30 AM
Modified: Friday June 26 2009 09:56:30 AM
Thursday June 25 2009 05:48:27 PM
Created: Thursday June 25 2009 05:50:11 PM
Modified: Thursday June 25 2009 05:50:11 PM
Thursday June 25 2009 07:36:10 AM
Some good waves in recent big ene swell, one 6+ second left tube double overhead.
Created: Monday June 29 2009 07:37:33 AM
Modified: Monday June 29 2009 07:37:33 AM
Thursday June 25 2009 02:24:28 AM
My wife and I booked a place to stay in Sayulita as we're exploring the area for living options. Today was the first day the surf in the town was at all decent. It was coming in decent, albeit little, sets. The biggest waves were probably 4 1/2 foot...decent enough for a long board. The waves are fairly weak and are a good learning longboard wave...my wife is just learning.
We rented boards from Capitan Pablo's....the lady who rented us the baords, who I assume was Patricia, was not really friendly and first gave me a board with the center fin broken off and told me she took it off on purpose...I think she was more concerned with smoking and sitting around. I ended up switching after 20 minutes when the board would go the opposite direction I was turning.
The people in the water are uber-beginners and are annoying but excusable since they're new...although you'd think someone would tell them not to paddle right in front of everyone in the line-up and just sit there but that's beginners everywhere. Fat chicks in bikinis are a bit of an annoying sight when you are trying to make due with what's happening in the surf.
I had read about the annoying locals and it was towards the end of the session when I got a taste. A dude who couldn't have even been having fun surfing little waves was paddling onto almost every wave, the wind had picked up and sets were coming fairly infrequently, and was whistling everyone off and trying to show off. He was yelling like he was having a blast which was either crap or sad since the waves were 3 foot. He was attempting to show off and annoy the shit out of everyone it seemed and it's fairly pathetic when you have to get in the water just to annoy new surfers who are trying to learn the joys.
Either this guy was the worst of the locals or the world's most annoying locals live here and hate tourists and get in the water more out of hatred for others than the joys of surfing.
Super bust and unless you want to get in the water and waste your time and money you're better off heading down to Punta de Mita or elsewhere...super lame.
Created: Thursday June 25 2009 02:33:47 AM
Modified: Thursday June 25 2009 02:33:47 AM
Wednesday June 24 2009 08:00:00 AM
After the last session I really wanted to get out there and combine the skills that I have with the confidence to ride the waves we had. The last session I hadn't surfed to my ability but had learnt some important lessons.
Unfortunately the conditions weren't lining up for us and today was bigger than Monday but with less shape. I caught a few waves and fell off them. I caught one in the foam and got angling, but just couldn't quite get around it and onto the face. Went for miles though... then paddled back out. I was chuffed that I was catching the waves, though. Finally I caught a nice one and got angling along the face... right up until it sectioned and I didn't manage to get round it.
This was the last session we got. The other days were either bigger, the wind was screaming onshore or the current was so strong that getting into position would have been next to impossible for me.
I've learnt a lot and can't wait to get out at my home breaks with a different view on what 'big' is.
Hoping for small GLASSY conditions when I head back next year. :) Can't wait to see it at its best in offshore conditions.
Created: Sunday June 28 2009 01:16:18 PM
Modified: Sunday June 28 2009 01:16:18 PM
Monday June 22 2009 03:00:00 PM
Today we paddled out the back with an escort. My dad and uncle showed us the best way to paddle out and where to sit. Managed to get cleaned up by one wave when a set came wide, but otherwise made it out the back fine.
I caught two ~head-high waves, the first I rode straight for some inexplicable reason. This left me with a massive distance to paddle back out. But I wanted to know that I could get back out the back. So I paddled wide like I was told and got there. The second wave I caught was looking really nice, but I needed to be angling more straight away. The wind was making the waves really bumpy and I ended up falling off on the second ride after hitting a speed bump.
Overwhelming experience. Hasgiven me a very different perception of my home breaks.
Created: Sunday June 28 2009 01:08:07 PM
Modified: Sunday June 28 2009 01:08:07 PM
Sunday June 21 2009 12:56:07 PM
This was James and my first session at Tombstones. To say we were awed is an understatement. There is just so much going on. Lines of swell peeling along, the bombie off to the right, reef, coral, a cliff to climb down; the whole experience is full on.
We stayed in close and caught some reforms on the wide side. The current was fairly strong which meant paddling the entire time to try and position yourself for a decent wave.
Getting out, the tide was low enough for us to climb up the cliff.
Created: Sunday June 28 2009 12:59:44 PM
Modified: Sunday June 28 2009 12:59:44 PM
Sunday June 21 2009 09:00:00 AM
Created: Monday June 22 2009 02:51:47 PM
Modified: Monday June 22 2009 02:51:47 PM
Sunday June 21 2009 08:00:00 AM
Sessione discreta a Laiguelia, onde piccoline ma divertenti...
e poi dovevo collaudare la tavola nuova!!!!
Created: Thursday July 2 2009 10:22:06 AM
Modified: Thursday July 2 2009 10:22:06 AM
Saturday June 20 2009 11:00:00 AM
Created: Monday June 22 2009 02:48:18 PM
Modified: Monday June 22 2009 02:48:18 PM
Saturday June 20 2009 12:00:00 AM
The summer of 09, What to say? I have to say the summer of 09 was the best summer I have ever had. So many swells in the 2 1/2 months I was there. Most of the time there was light wind and wave of at least 3 feet (local scale). Some days were 5 feet occ. bigger. Threes most of the summer was going off. It was the best summer of my life and I hope it is the same or better next summer.
Created: Sunday November 15 2009 08:38:03 PM
Modified: Sunday November 15 2009 08:38:03 PM
Wednesday June 17 2009 06:30:00 AM
Update: BIG MONDAY 6:30 AM DST "Ray Bay" San Gabriel river mouth, Seal Beach. No wind, glassy conditions and a big south swell pumping from 180 degrees. Its low tide and lines are breaking all the way from "Barracuda's" at the north break wall across middles, past "Crabs" at the south jetty. Sometimes the stars align perfectly, the 180 degree swell angle threading the needle past Santa Catalina island to allow a direct hit at Ray Bay while a few miles south its either walled out or 2-3 feet!
Breaking in three separate peaks and occasionally hooking up all the way. You had to get lucky and pick the right wave, you didn't make them all but the ones you did were the ones you remember! Strong rip currents sweeping you south and out to sea at Crabs and north into the breakwater and down river at Cuda's. Caught a big left at Cuda's and got stuck inside, had to let the white water and current pull me over to middles and paddle out from there.
My two best waves were a head high stand up barrel from middles across the low tide suck up at Crabs barely making it as the wave pounded the tail of my board knocking it sideways, and my last wave!
Even though I was riding my 9'0" Quad with a thruster set up, by 10 AM after three hours, was getting pretty tired. I decided to sit outside and wait for a big set for my taxi ride in.
Sat out there for a long time, nothing, starting to get really crowded (like 60 people stretched across the bay) the tide coming in the a sea breeze coming up. Had almost given up when I saw Deon, one of the SUP guys start stroking for the horizon. My patience paid off ... here they come, mountains rolling in!
Everyone scratching outside; paddled over the first three, each one bigger than the last, saw the SUP Deon start stroking into the shoulder of a monster. Paddled into position, up the feathering peak spun around and pushed over into a late takeoff. Took the drop, hard off the bottom, back up the face and snap off the top, just making it through a big section.
Flying down the line I saw two beginners floundering inside, one guy sitting with his back to the wave, oblivious to the 18 wheeler barreling down on him! Luckily the wave was big enough I was able to go up and over their heads. No idea what happened to them must have got really pounded. As I blew through the suck up I caught up to and was now drafting the SUP in front of me ... “Keep going” ... I yelled.
We cruised together across the wall with more beginners inside scattering inside like a school of fish in front of us. Still gliding along in the high line past the rocks at Crabs, he pulled out and I rode it all the way to the sand, almost to 2nd Street!
Sunday 'Ray Bay': June Gloom, with light onshore. Waist to chest high SSW swell running with an incoming tidal push. A cold water up-welling from offshore storms has dropped sea temps to 58F plus a cool 'Catalina Eddy' sea breeze means put away the spring suit for now! Steep take off on the peak at Middles work the boomerang across the wall then up the nose on the inside sandbar by Crabs.
Don't put your feet on the bottom ... Mr Stingy and his buddy's are everywhere!
Gangrene from a Stingray hit:
"If the antibiotics don't work its got to come off"
Created: Saturday June 13 2009 07:47:12 PM
Modified: Saturday June 20 2009 04:24:00 AM
Monday June 15 2009 04:14:29 PM
Nice clear water - wave were short but alot of fun. Kids bodyboarded until noodled. Strong incoming tide. Pop pop rode, too.
Created: Wednesday August 12 2009 04:17:47 PM
Modified: Wednesday August 12 2009 04:17:47 PM
Sunday June 14 2009 11:00:00 AM
Nothing Notta Zip Zilcho...No waves for weeks here. Getting discouraged. Hoping to catch a wave before I leave in August. We shall see...
Created: Friday June 19 2009 07:09:19 PM
Modified: Friday June 19 2009 07:09:19 PM
Friday June 12 2009 02:00:00 AM
It was amazing!
first 5 waves i got, were at least 2 second barrels, made out of easily. Absoloutly amazing!
Created: Thursday June 25 2009 11:15:36 AM
Modified: Thursday June 25 2009 11:15:36 AM
Thursday June 11 2009 08:30:00 PM
Bellissima mareggiata di inizio estate...
Onde belle, divertinti e medio lunghe...
Created: Tuesday June 16 2009 04:06:24 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 16 2009 04:06:24 PM