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Surf session counter: 4212
Friday May 8 2009 01:38:02 PM
!!!!AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
YOU CAN LOSE YOUR SPONSORS
If you lie about locals, it will be worst!
some of us don't have a reputation!
...& It's not 2 stars by the way
Created: Friday May 8 2009 01:40:02 PM
Modified: Tuesday May 26 2009 04:44:34 PM
Friday May 8 2009 07:15:00 AM
I never surfed Lafitenia and didn't knew where it was. This morning, I wake up early and, with a good map, I went to this spot. It was empty and beautiful 1.20 m glassy waves were breaking. I just ran on the road and jumped into the water. I was alone ! It's absolutely silly when you know that it one of the most crowded spot in France... I surfed 2 waves alone: it's a long right with a sometimes ugly take off. After, it's a fun easy wave with long walls where you can worj your cut back. After we were only two and surfedthe right alone for 40mn. When I went out, there were 20 surfers and it became hard to surf.
Created: Sunday May 10 2009 10:18:11 PM
Modified: Sunday May 10 2009 10:18:11 PM
Monday May 4 2009 02:08:29 PM
all the charts said that there was no swell but we went down any way. when we saw rafts we were frothing because there was some swell but the banks were gutted so we went to club cap expecting it to be the same. but when we got to the check point we saw a set come through and it was nuts. 3 mabye 4 waves that broke from way out side the groyne and wrapt all the way through the the inside peak and just stop and then shut down 2 metres from the shore. top to bottem barrels all the way.
i was in my wet suit and out the back in 4 seconds flat. what was to happen next will be in my memory til the day i die.
first wave that came through i take but my line is to high, the lip hits me in the back and i belly flop and just escape hitting the bottem. i come up just in time to see my best mate dissapear under a curten that was two foot thick. it just sollowed him whole.
then a real wide set came through and i just made it to the shoulder and i swing right and pull in to a hugestand up pit and get mowed down. icome up and paddle back out and get the next one and try a huge re-entry but im on a twin fin for the first time and loose control this time my head does find the sand which by this stage is acting as concrete.
jacob makes what is probaly the biggest wave of the day so far but the swells building and where charging harder then we ever hhave done at this place. and where all by our selves.
i take a inside one and it wedges up nicely i come off the bottom and pull a horizontal floater but the back wash hits me in the face and i just got pounded. i dont know what jacob's doing and i couldent care less.
on the next one i dont make the drop. and i paddle out a bit wider and sit up about 30 seconds later i just this screaming from the shore i looked up and it was jacob yalling to g i lok around and the wave of the day was there and i went for it. i got up under the lip and set my rail hopping for a barrel but i can see it was crumble i turn down and accelrate in to three or four hard turns. and just step off on the sand.
next one i got took me over the falls we got a few more before the sun went downbut we had to go home
for me a good day down there is like catching up with an old friend silghtly changed but some how diffrent i havent seen her turn on for almost six months but good things come to those wait
Created: Monday May 4 2009 01:10:23 PM
Modified: Monday May 4 2009 03:43:48 PM
Monday May 4 2009 01:00:00 AM
godd for sport
snapped my board so......
Created: Monday May 11 2009 10:27:56 AM
Modified: Monday May 11 2009 10:27:56 AM
Sunday May 3 2009 08:45:00 AM
It was solid and multipeak: so it was hard to take waves. I also make the classic mistake: I took a too small board, my fish. I managed to take wave but it was difficult to make big turns on the small board. Nethermind, I got some good one. I remember 2 big hollow lefts and a good right (I was well placed on my board and have done fun rollers).
I met also angry locals (angry with everyone). They were pretty funny in fact !
Created: Sunday May 3 2009 03:21:48 PM
Modified: Sunday May 3 2009 03:21:48 PM
Friday May 1 2009 09:07:22 PM
Created: Friday May 1 2009 09:12:39 PM
Modified: Friday May 1 2009 09:12:39 PM
Thursday April 30 2009 04:00:00 PM
Created: Tuesday February 2 2010 04:47:39 PM
Modified: Tuesday February 2 2010 04:47:39 PM
Thursday April 30 2009 04:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday May 11 2011 03:36:03 PM
Modified: Wednesday May 11 2011 03:37:15 PM
Thursday April 30 2009 12:00:00 AM
Created: Sunday January 31 2010 11:26:29 PM
Modified: Sunday January 31 2010 11:34:06 PM
Tuesday April 28 2009 12:00:00 AM
Created: Thursday May 7 2009 10:55:23 PM
Modified: Thursday May 7 2009 10:55:23 PM
Sunday April 26 2009 05:00:00 AM
Created: Friday July 24 2009 10:29:27 AM
Modified: Friday July 24 2009 10:29:27 AM
Saturday April 25 2009 11:00:00 AM
Appena arrivati onde spettacolari, dopo un po il vento ha rinforzato e si è rovinato tutto...
Created: Friday July 24 2009 10:18:45 AM
Modified: Friday July 24 2009 10:18:45 AM
Saturday April 25 2009 07:30:00 AM
When its 'Springtime in LA' and 102F! Global warming indeed, last week we broke record temperatures in SOCAL. Perfect 'Blue Bird' conditions with morning light offshore's but guess what ... dead flat!
Things have improved the past couple of days with a good 190 degree southern hemi swell and 300 NW pushing sets up to head high or a little better. Conditions however are not as good, light morning onshores with fog and heavy overcast.Things have improved the past couple of days with a good 190 degree southern hemi swell and 300 NW pushing sets up to head high or a little better. Conditions however are not as good, light morning onshores with fog and heavy overcast.
Thursday rode the Kingfisher with a Quad setup ... OK for the bigger waves, tracking through sections and stable noserides but don't like the arc turns. No pivot or thrust off the bottom. Friday set it up with just the 4.6" outside Future's and a 4" trailer, much better!
Saturday morning the swell was still running overhead on the sets with an incoming low tide making it a long, long paddle with lots of white water. Crossed up mix of 190 southern hemi and 300 NW with some lump, bump and cross chop from a light onshore. Took my 7'2” MR SuperFish so it was a bit of a struggle getting over to Cuda's by the north wall. Super crowded with everyone from beginners SUP's to shortboarders from the OC as Huntington Pier was walled out.
Some narly left handers into the breakwall that folded in on themselves while jacking up from refraction. Was sitting outside in perfect position when a huge set came rolling through. Paddled over to the middle and waited for the third monster peak. Got it, pushed over, hit the bottom and smacked out and up. Holding my breath, crouched deep in its belly as it reared over me. I could hear the crowd caught inside yelling to get my attention and not run them down!
All I could see in the corner of my eye was colors, black/white/yellow/blue as I flew by... like a running back in football running to daylight. Hit the shoulder with a sigh of relief and a gasp for air!
Fight or Flight:
Late one warm spring afternoon with a light southerly offshore breeze paddled out at Kirra Point, think 3rd point Malibu. It was mid week and not too crowded. Surf was a solid shoulder to overhead and breaking cleanly on the rock bottom out on the point before they built the groin. As the swell wrapped around inside it began to section and suck up as it hit the foot or so of water over the inside sand bar in front of the rocks. Kirra is an extremely hard breaking, fast wave that speed up faster and faster as it wraps and boomerangs - you need sky rockets up your but to make it all the way!
Was picking the smaller sets that lined up outside shooting down the line and kicking out as they hit the inside section to avoid getting caught in the nasty rip that sucks you north whenever its gets any size. Ready to go in I waited for a final big set. Here it came, took off, hit the bottom, turned fast, trimmed and crouched low as the lip came over my head. Oh, No too late to kick out, I was committed! Grabbed the rail staring at the nose of my board and the discolored water being sucked up from the sand bar. I hope I don’t hit a rock or I’m a goner! Normally when you get a cover up or tube its short and sweet, you can see the shoulder in front of you and its just a matter of making it or not.
On this wave I was already deep in the tube when a big section just closed right over me. There was no daylight just green sandy water. I guess the so called “fight or flight” survival reflex must have kicked in, time slowed down to a crawl. I stopped breathing, running on pure adrenaline, the roar of the wave became silent, my eyes focused into tunnel vision. Seems as I could even feel the sticky wax on my board as I shot like a shell down the barrel of a cannon. It seem to go on and on forever, my body making minute adjustments on auto pilot to keep the board on track suddenly I saw a small patch of light ... was I going to make it ... yes the hole opened up to a green shoulder but just for an instant ... then I saw another big section rearing up ... I power turned from the bottom at full speed out and over the top ... exhausted!
Fight or Flight:
“If a stimulus is perceived as a threat, an intense and prolonged discharge of the locus ceruleus activates the sympathetic division of the autonomic nervous system This activation is associated with specific physiological actions in the system, both directly and indirectly through the release of epinephrine (adrenaline) and to a lesser extent norepinephrine from the medulla of the adrenal glands. The release is triggered by acetylcholine released from preganglionic sympathetic nerves. The other major factor in the acute stress response is the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis.
When in the bloodstream, epinephrine rapidly prepares the body for action in emergency situations. The hormone boosts the supply of oxygen and glucose to the brain and muscles, while suppressing other non-emergency bodily processes (digestion in particular).It increases heart rate and stroke volume, dilates the pupils, and constricts arterioles in the skin and gastrointestinal tract while dilating arterioles in skeletal muscles. It elevates the blood sugar level by increasing catabolism of glycogen to glucose in the liver, and at the same time begins the breakdown of lipids in fat cells. Like some other stress hormones, epinephrine also has a suppressive effect on the immune system."
Acceleration of heart and lung action
Paling or flushing, or alternating between both
Inhibition of stomach and upper-intestinal action (digestion slows down or stops)
General effect on the sphincters of the body
Constriction of blood vessels in many parts of the body
Liberation of nutrients for muscular action
Dilation of blood vessels for muscles
Inhibition of Lacrimal gland (responsible for tear production) and salivation
Relaxation of bladder
Evacuation of colon
Inhibition of erection
Auditory Exclusion (loss of hearing)
Tunnel Vision (loss of peripheral vision)
Acceleration of instantaneous reflexes
Created: Saturday April 25 2009 06:37:18 AM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 01:44:59 AM
Friday April 24 2009 12:00:00 AM
Created: Thursday May 7 2009 10:53:08 PM
Modified: Thursday May 7 2009 10:53:08 PM
Tuesday April 21 2009 02:00:00 PM
I havn't surfed HT's, just took pictures from the beach. I clearly not have the required level to surf HT's, and this is definitely not an option with a broken coxis bone !!!!!
I'll add some pictures of Remi, Paul & Teiki I took from the beach.
Created: Monday April 27 2009 03:04:50 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 04:03:17 PM
Monday April 20 2009 09:00:00 AM
Created: Tuesday April 21 2009 06:16:07 PM
Modified: Tuesday April 21 2009 06:16:07 PM
Monday April 20 2009 08:00:00 AM
I started to take photos with my Subal housing. After 4/5 waves with paul & Remi, I dive under a big wave and lost a fin :-(
Then, I get my board I started to take some waves. Just in and Hugo grab me a good wave, paddeling on the inside. Fucking guy. Spending 45 min to take picture and he still fight to grab waves over me. That's not fair!!!
I was upset, then get a 1.5m wave and fall after the take off. The wave smach me on the reef and kick my ass (maybe a broken coxis bone!). Some cuts on the coral and a big pain in my ass !!!!
Worst session ever...
Created: Monday April 27 2009 03:00:17 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 04:04:03 PM
Sunday April 19 2009 02:00:00 PM
Cut back: Need to move back my rear foot !
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:54:32 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:54:32 PM
Sunday April 19 2009 11:47:04 AM
Created: Sunday April 19 2009 11:47:52 AM
Modified: Sunday April 19 2009 11:47:52 AM
Sunday April 19 2009 08:00:00 AM
Testing the cut back with the quatro; no so easy!
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:53:23 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:53:23 PM
Saturday April 18 2009 02:00:00 PM
The takeoff backside grab rails works fine !
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:47:19 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:47:19 PM
Saturday April 18 2009 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:45:35 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:46:02 PM
Saturday April 18 2009 07:15:00 AM
The waves were a little bigger than expected and I was just at the right moment after the low tide. We were only 2. I got mainly 1m to 1.2m waves but sometimes, beautiful and hollow 1.5m sets were breaking.
I got 2 of the biggest waves: hollow right were I was backside and at the enter of the tube. A really good memory.
Several photos of me:
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 10:14:21 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 10:14:21 PM
Friday April 17 2009 02:00:00 PM
Very nice wave. not alone: Brazilians and Aussies...
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:43:29 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:43:29 PM
Friday April 17 2009 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:41:40 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:41:40 PM
Thursday April 16 2009 08:00:00 PM
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 09:44:03 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 10:15:57 PM
Thursday April 16 2009 02:00:00 PM
Not in good mood. Tired...
Created: Monday April 27 2009 12:09:36 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 12:09:36 PM
Thursday April 16 2009 02:00:00 PM
Created: Thursday May 7 2009 10:48:02 PM
Modified: Thursday May 7 2009 10:48:02 PM
Thursday April 16 2009 10:30:00 AM
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 07:42:07 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 07:42:07 PM
Thursday April 16 2009 08:00:00 AM
Some current, easy wave, a lot of water!
Created: Monday April 27 2009 12:08:34 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 12:08:34 PM
Wednesday April 15 2009 08:46:07 PM
Created: Sunday April 19 2009 08:47:05 PM
Modified: Sunday April 19 2009 08:47:05 PM
Wednesday April 15 2009 08:40:12 PM
Created: Sunday April 19 2009 08:42:26 PM
Modified: Sunday April 19 2009 08:42:26 PM
Wednesday April 15 2009 09:00:00 AM
Missed Riffles, so we went to 4 bobs. This spot is really good for regular surfers (means non-aliens looking for2m+ barrels)... but ther is no water! We ofter touch the corals with the fins when waiting for the sets :)
Surf with just Remi and paul at the begining, cool to be 3 on the spot!
Created: Monday April 27 2009 12:06:00 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:55:17 PM
Tuesday April 14 2009 02:00:00 PM
Created: Monday April 27 2009 12:03:24 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 12:06:23 PM
Tuesday April 14 2009 08:30:00 AM
The swell was expected to rise during the day from 1.20m to 2.5m. When I came, the tide was high but a beautiful outside bank was working: perfect lefts were breaking every ten minutes. I was alone in the water and it was really good. Waves werfe powerful so I just make big turns in the glassy faces.
After one hour, the peak was starting to close out. I went outside to check the south. But it was not a good choice: there was a right but not as good with a lot of surfers. after 20mn I came back to the left. It started breaking better and hollower. The best waves were around a solid 2m with a lot of current but the left was long, hollow and makeable.
We were only two surfers as it was hard. After 3 waves, I dropped in a solid one: I started with a long fun wall then an hollow bowl started to rise up just in front of me, I hesitated as it was big but I slowed down, stayed really high in the wave and get tubed, a big one, get the lip on my head at the end then I continued to surf on the end of the wall with big turns. It was one of my top ten wave in my life.
As I was tired, I went out. It was a good choice: the swell continued to rise up and it became too big.
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 06:41:25 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 09:44:18 PM
Tuesday April 14 2009 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday April 27 2009 12:01:57 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 04:03:44 PM
Monday April 13 2009 06:22:09 PM
I came back inthe evening because the wind dropped down. It was high tide and the swell was smaller than the morning. It was nearly only a shorebreak. But sometimes, few waves were opening. They were very fast and hollow. I got few good ones and the last one was the best one: a good beautiful tube (I pulled in and get out...). A good session at the end.
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 06:28:29 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 09:44:29 PM
Monday April 13 2009 09:14:08 AM
A fun day, but I was having an unco one. Falling off a lot. Super crowded take off zone which I wanted to steer clear of. not a lot of wave options from anywhere else though. Gotta get me some face!!
Created: Wednesday April 15 2009 09:15:57 AM
Modified: Wednesday April 15 2009 09:15:57 AM
Monday April 13 2009 08:30:00 AM
The surf was better in the water than it appears form the shor. Even it was multipeak, I get some good waves.
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 03:28:35 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 09:44:42 PM
Sunday April 12 2009 09:33:45 AM
only the second time i've been there and the first time there was any waves. only got 1 but i was stoked any way. but i had a bad exprience with the reef. i went for a set wave and got stuck in the lip, you can fill in the blanks. reef hard. shit scared of every thing else after that. then i had to find a way back in which isn't hard to do if you know what your doing unlike me.
Created: Sunday April 12 2009 07:07:58 AM
Modified: Sunday April 12 2009 07:07:58 AM
Sunday April 12 2009 09:11:36 AM
Hard work today. Lots and lots of white water. Some guys still making it look easy, but not many.
We'd come out to teach the nephew how to surf. he was quickly over it, so we helped ourselves. Some nice rights with a bit of face, but nothing exciting. A whole lot of foam.
Created: Wednesday April 15 2009 09:13:51 AM
Modified: Wednesday April 15 2009 09:13:51 AM
Saturday April 11 2009 10:43:27 PM
Nice trip, wave were big, around 5ft, tubular, and close-out big walls...what else do u want :D...had a great day...surfed all morning, then it got flat during the afternoon, competition didn't fill my expectation, they'd have done it right in the morning when waves were big and consistent...
Created: Wednesday April 15 2009 12:30:44 AM
Modified: Wednesday April 15 2009 12:30:44 AM
Saturday April 11 2009 01:00:00 PM
Broke the leash of the 7S. Had to get back to the beach to get my board. 5 small cuts on the rail and tail. Fixed them with Solarez.
Created: Monday April 27 2009 11:52:31 AM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 03:57:10 PM
Saturday April 11 2009 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday April 27 2009 11:48:44 AM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 11:48:44 AM
Saturday April 11 2009 02:32:37 AM
few more waves
fall out of the sky, land on the flats and totaly distroyed
weird emotion of stoked and and pain
get wave of the day
Created: Saturday April 11 2009 12:45:47 PM
Modified: Saturday April 11 2009 12:45:47 PM