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Surf session counter: 3814
Friday April 11 2014 03:20:40 AM
Created: Friday April 11 2014 03:21:07 AM
Modified: Friday April 11 2014 03:21:07 AM
Thursday April 10 2014 08:00:00 AM
With Tibok and Dahomey, it was low tide but we found the famous spot all for ourself. So we took plenty of waves. I used my 6'2". When there is no current, it's an easy board and I got several bombs. A A frame (size doubled) on a shallow sandbank
After a while I went on the left, I caught 3 beautiful waves: long not hollow but powerful. I have finished in the baine and ot was impossible to paddle out again. I had a big cramp... I went out to take my 6'4" (easier to caught waves) and I went back on the right.
Created: Thursday April 10 2014 07:24:11 PM
Modified: Thursday April 10 2014 07:24:11 PM
Sunday April 6 2014 03:40:00 PM
I had a little time to go to surf at the end of the afternoon. When I started, webcams didn't show very good waves... So I went to a popular spot. A wonderful right was here : tubular, long, green with the sun but it was crowde.
I just saw a smaller wave, a left, but it seemed to have a better shape and more regular with NO surfers ( ! ).
So I just go... And the left was just GOOD and, on the biggest ones (1.20m), it was tubular. I caught 4 real surfed tubes.
2 surfers came on the beach, looked at me then passed away. I was thinking why they passed away as waves were so good for me but I was happy. They continued to walk and came back one hour after then came close to me. I was disappointed but the 2 guys were very friendly :"your waves were so good and you was alone so we decided to let you alone too find an other good sandbank. But your wave is just better. So excuse us !"
With a declaration like this, I started to laugh and we surfed together...
Created: Sunday April 6 2014 07:50:04 PM
Modified: Sunday April 6 2014 07:52:57 PM
Saturday April 5 2014 05:15:00 PM
Created: Monday April 7 2014 09:39:27 AM
Modified: Monday April 7 2014 09:39:27 AM
Saturday April 5 2014 08:00:00 AM
We took our bicycles to avoid crowds and searched new sandbanks. And we found it !
From the beach, it didn't seemed so big, just a fun 1 meter. But in the water, it appeared that waves were bigger : more than a1.5m very very hollw and powerful. We were the 2 only surfers... a dream !
I had to work my backside (a problem with my frontfoot) and my backside tube.
I love this place.
Created: Sunday April 6 2014 07:40:41 PM
Modified: Sunday April 6 2014 07:40:41 PM
Sunday March 30 2014 03:00:00 PM
I didn't gone at the right time (full high tide). I took my thin 6'2" Aiko surfboard. I didn't surfed it since 6 years ! Because I started to surf thicker surfboard.
But waves were so good and I found a lonely peak. It was a great sesion : carve, turn, roundhouse... my best tricks sinc a long time !
the left : hé hé !
Created: Sunday March 30 2014 06:13:39 PM
Modified: Sunday March 30 2014 06:13:53 PM
Saturday March 29 2014 08:00:00 AM
Ouch : 2.5m waves, 13s period... A long right was cranking but it was very very hard to catch ! I got good waves but no bombs. I enjoyed long hold downs (more than 10s underwater and you have to swim towards the surface....)
We were 6 friends :Occy took a big barrel and luke-egan the wave of the day...
Created: Saturday March 29 2014 01:25:46 PM
Modified: Sunday March 30 2014 10:54:08 AM
Friday March 28 2014 09:00:00 AM
Not as good as the last time but the surf was good. It was difficult to catch waves as it was multipeak.
I took several rights with two small barrels. Then the left started to work... I took one big long left very hollow.
Created: Friday March 28 2014 06:23:22 PM
Modified: Friday March 28 2014 06:23:22 PM
Thursday March 13 2014 08:00:00 AM
We woke up early. I was not sure that the spot will be good with the low tide. But when we arrived, we discovered a beach full of peaks. No one in the water ! We surfed the left just in front of the access.
The take off was easy but the wave was not : you had to speed all along the wall to finish in powerful bowl. 2 in the water, 30 surfed waves...
Created: Thursday March 13 2014 08:01:28 PM
Modified: Thursday March 13 2014 08:04:29 PM
Monday March 10 2014 04:04:49 PM
bonne session !!
Created: Tuesday March 11 2014 04:06:10 PM
Modified: Tuesday March 11 2014 04:06:10 PM
Sunday March 9 2014 08:15:00 AM
At firs, the peak seemed powerless. In the water, we realized that it was just good ! Long rights and leftswere peeling the sandbank from mid tide to high tide.
It was a very good session
Created: Wednesday March 12 2014 08:01:22 PM
Modified: Wednesday March 12 2014 08:04:33 PM
Saturday March 8 2014 04:45:00 PM
At first it seemed makeable
But it was BIG when the ghost sets came in every 10mn. Waves were 2m height. I was alone in the water and my board was too short. I took 5 big powerful waves.
The first : a long left
The last : a very long right
Created: Saturday March 8 2014 09:50:41 PM
Modified: Wednesday March 12 2014 07:52:16 PM
Sunday March 2 2014 09:34:54 PM
Good Session with Tibok. At the first spot : the check was not so good. At the second, we knew instantly that it was the good place ! A A-Frame 3m was cranking
The only problem : it was far, 500m from the coast in battlefield of strong rips. It was very hard to pass.
After, it was ok :
It was fast
The session was physical : waves were not so big (2m max) but it was powerful. At the middle of the session, I was caught inside and cannot paddle back. After 20mn, waves put me on the sand like a old jellyfish...
At the end the wind came, waves were smaller.
Created: Saturday March 8 2014 09:42:30 PM
Modified: Saturday March 8 2014 09:53:04 PM
Sunday February 23 2014 08:30:00 AM
Solid waves, 2 m, hard to take but long surf. Wind in. I have done 2 big falls with the lip !
I met again my funny locals (arguing but the stayed on the beach...). A good laugh.
Created: Saturday March 8 2014 09:21:21 PM
Modified: Saturday March 8 2014 09:34:27 PM
Saturday February 22 2014 11:15:00 AM
Created: Monday February 24 2014 09:06:36 AM
Modified: Monday February 24 2014 09:06:36 AM
Tuesday February 18 2014 03:14:32 PM
Created: Tuesday June 3 2014 03:15:31 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 3 2014 03:15:31 PM
Monday February 17 2014 03:14:30 PM
Created: Tuesday June 3 2014 03:15:45 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 3 2014 03:15:45 PM
Monday February 17 2014 09:45:00 AM
It was a strange session...After one complete month without surf because of successive tempest, forecasts seemed good : 2.5m (small compared to the previous weeks...) and SE wind.
It was cold. Water was everywhere
Because of the swell, I went to the north expected people. But, first surprise, I was alone. Tempests have attacked the bech ; evrything has been transformed. I couldn't recognized anything. The coast lost 10m !
The wind was stronger and souther than forecasted. I bearly came back. but a remote peak seemed to be good. And it was...
I got 3 good tubes (enter and exit). So not my best session but it was worth it.
Created: Monday February 17 2014 04:07:40 PM
Modified: Monday February 17 2014 04:12:07 PM
Saturday February 15 2014 03:14:25 PM
Created: Tuesday June 3 2014 03:16:14 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 3 2014 03:16:14 PM
Tuesday February 11 2014 12:30:00 PM
Created: Wednesday February 12 2014 10:53:33 AM
Modified: Wednesday February 12 2014 10:53:33 AM
Sunday February 2 2014 03:49:39 AM
Created: Sunday February 2 2014 03:50:09 AM
Modified: Sunday February 2 2014 03:50:09 AM
Sunday January 12 2014 09:00:00 AM
Today session was excellent. Small check at the cold sunrise. Tibok and the crew weren't still at the parking. I have discovered this :
No need to draw : it was just perfect : a long right was peeling around the sandban, 1.5m to 2m, 200m long. Fast but not too much, an easy paddle. I knew I needed to take my semi gun.
When I saw this, I have started to run back to the parking...
I meet the crew on the parkin. I told them just to avoid the check and to jump into their wetsuit. I discovered that I forgot my leash at home. f... . Hopedully Dahomey gave me one.Then I snaked everybody to be the first in the water : I ran to the beach and was alone at the peak. My first wave was a bomb : a 200m backside rush.
After we were around 20 surfers but there was a lot of waves.
After 2 hours, the wind changed and waves were deteriorated (but still good)
some of other surfers comments :
Das "De bien belles images en tête : une grosse bombe pour Yann (enfin je crois bien que c'était lui), le style appliqué de Occy sur une vague bien ronde,...y'a que Dahomey qui a été très décevant ... non j'déconne. "
Occy "Quelle incroyable matinée !!!
Created: Sunday January 12 2014 07:56:28 PM
Modified: Sunday January 12 2014 07:59:42 PM
Saturday January 11 2014 03:00:00 PM
The wind was worse than forecasts. Waves were here but bumpy and mushy. With ZItoune we had some fun with this : nothing special but just a good time with friends.
Created: Sunday January 12 2014 08:07:17 PM
Modified: Sunday January 12 2014 08:07:17 PM
Friday January 10 2014 03:00:00 PM
After the XXL Swell of Hercules (6 to 8m), all the sandbanks have shifted. And it was Christmas : no matter where you go, you will find a good sandbank.
The session started with Dahomey and Tibok : it was good but nothing unforgetable becaus the tide was too high. But after a while, waves became hollower and long : 150m of surf and more...
I got very good waves at the end of the session (2 small tubes, a very good left, 2 very long rights).
Tibok took the wave of the day : I just see the back of the wave and he started to shout inside the tube ! I could clearly hear him. And he was deep : there was echo because of the hollow sound !!!!
Waves of Lacanau but we had the same !
Created: Friday January 10 2014 09:05:51 PM
Modified: Friday January 10 2014 09:06:14 PM
Monday January 6 2014 11:00:00 AM
Created: Friday January 10 2014 03:23:22 PM
Modified: Friday January 10 2014 03:23:22 PM
Sunday January 5 2014 01:00:00 PM
Created: Friday January 10 2014 03:22:04 PM
Modified: Friday January 10 2014 03:22:04 PM
Sunday December 29 2013 11:00:00 AM
Created: Monday December 30 2013 09:24:51 AM
Modified: Monday December 30 2013 09:24:51 AM
Friday December 27 2013 03:00:00 PM
Created: Monday December 30 2013 09:23:25 AM
Modified: Monday December 30 2013 09:23:25 AM
Friday December 27 2013 02:30:00 PM
The swell was coming in. I decided to avoid the know spots on the north coast to avoid the crowd. I went to this semi-secret spot which rarely worked. And I was rewarded : a beautiful windy wave was there. I stayed in the water (9°C!) for 2h30mn. The first section was the most interesting (1,20m hollow) and it was mellow after. I was very happy to surf this spot with those waves.
The video : https://vimeo.com/82838285
Created: Saturday December 28 2013 05:25:16 PM
Modified: Saturday December 28 2013 05:47:59 PM
Thursday December 26 2013 03:00:00 PM
Created: Monday December 30 2013 09:22:16 AM
Modified: Monday December 30 2013 09:22:16 AM
Tuesday December 24 2013 11:30:00 AM
Just too small but enough to surf in a beautiful landscape.
a small video : https://vimeo.com/82675494
Created: Wednesday December 25 2013 04:31:18 PM
Modified: Wednesday December 25 2013 05:59:30 PM
Monday December 23 2013 11:30:00 AM
Near the Jetty during the tempest ! Only fun small waves
Created: Monday December 23 2013 02:28:55 PM
Modified: Monday December 23 2013 02:28:55 PM
Saturday December 14 2013 12:00:00 PM
With Dahomey and his buddy CHris , we hesitated to go to check the ocean : was the swell twisted by the wind ? Will the swell saturate the surf spot ? Finally,
we decided to leave ( well. . Was tried as Dahomey had forgotten his wetsuit and it took him to find a replacement ... ) .
Arrived on the Gurp around 12 pm , it's big but not yet saturated . Noone in the water and plenty of locals watching . The best thing is not to think too much and we went to the water in a semblance of channel . Bingo, we are behind the waves. ! I took one board 7'3" and it seemed like a 6'4 ". I immediately take 2 waves : it is strange because the take-off is engaged but doable. After the size doubled and took at least one third in size! at the end of wave 2 tubes waited for me but it was so big that I was too impressed to try them. Caught in the impact zone , I see CHris who took off late , the wave doubled behind him (go over 2.5m - 3m) and he escaped into the wall. It is hairy. ! Wave grows, adrenaline too . Dahomey get punished on a long take off. Then it's my turn : late take off , the nose straight into the wave and I'm atomized ( I hear my neck vertebrae crack ) . We managed to take a few waves and swell continued to grow . Water movements wer impressive.
A series swept us , it was probably a good 4m: Dahomey and I were in the impact zone . Silence. Me , I admit I was scared. After one three quarter we went out: the session seemed to last only 10 minutes because it was so intense!
Here are some pictures of average quality but representative :
hu, hollow isn't it ?
Created: Sunday December 15 2013 02:42:05 PM
Modified: Sunday December 15 2013 02:42:05 PM
Wednesday December 11 2013 01:30:00 PM
Small and fun waves at a good sanbank. As the day before, you had to find the good sandbanl because of the long period swell. This time it was a right. Waves were 80cm to more than 1m.
Some longboarders, an angry english, a very bood backsider and a kid : a good summer session !
Created: Sunday December 15 2013 02:14:47 PM
Modified: Sunday December 15 2013 02:22:18 PM
Tuesday December 10 2013 02:00:00 PM
The swell was long and small. Waves were 80cm high. Only one sandbank worked but it was a lot of fun to surf ! I have done 2 tubes with one surfed inside (a 80cm wave only...)
Created: Tuesday December 10 2013 04:46:08 PM
Modified: Sunday December 15 2013 02:22:53 PM
Saturday December 7 2013 10:30:00 AM
The winter came early this year : low temperature since two weeks. It's the same weather than in february !
The swell was long : 12s and the sandbanks were hard to find. I went to surf with Zitoune. We started near the shore with fun waves then we went further to the north to surf outside banks (15min of paddle).
On the outside banks, I found powerful and fast right. I was at the entry of the tubes 2 times. I got also on big left (the only one). The tube was so big and large that I was afraid and preferred to fall.
A good session.
Created: Saturday December 7 2013 03:51:59 PM
Modified: Saturday December 7 2013 03:51:59 PM
Wednesday December 4 2013 06:38:44 AM
Created: Wednesday December 4 2013 06:41:24 AM
Modified: Wednesday December 4 2013 06:41:24 AM
Friday November 29 2013 11:00:00 AM
long swell, small waves, hight tide, no sandbank = bad session
Created: Friday November 29 2013 08:59:56 PM
Modified: Saturday December 7 2013 03:43:40 PM
Sunday November 17 2013 01:30:00 PM
It was cold, a little windy but I got fun waves.
Plus : bottom down the wave, better backside. better shoulder rotation
Minus : finish the bottom more vertically, be more compact at the bottom
Created: Sunday November 17 2013 08:28:27 PM
Modified: Sunday November 17 2013 08:28:27 PM
Saturday November 16 2013 12:00:00 PM
Windy session with powerful and tubular waves. Got few good ones. After one hour, the wind has turned and it became unsurfable. A lot of current.
Plus : better bottoms, came in the vertical part of the waves
Minus : had to work on the shoulder rotation
Created: Sunday November 17 2013 10:52:03 AM
Modified: Sunday November 17 2013 10:54:32 AM
Saturday November 9 2013 01:15:00 PM
Created: Sunday November 10 2013 10:17:50 AM
Modified: Sunday November 10 2013 10:17:50 AM
Saturday November 9 2013 10:00:00 AM
In the morning waves were less powerfull than the afternoon. Had to take off close to the south cliff to catch a ride but got some fairly long ones.
Harsh underground, be carefull when getting of your board.
With Ivan (goofybaba) and Peter.
Created: Sunday November 10 2013 11:34:26 AM
Modified: Monday November 11 2013 10:46:04 AM
Sunday November 3 2013 02:45:00 PM
Created: Monday November 4 2013 07:49:00 PM
Modified: Monday November 4 2013 07:49:00 PM
Sunday November 3 2013 12:00:00 AM
Created: Monday November 4 2013 03:42:26 AM
Modified: Monday November 4 2013 03:42:26 AM
Friday November 1 2013 04:30:00 PM
I just came back with a longer board to make easier the take off. On the 4 waves, only 3 were good but very good. The best one was the bomb (a small 2 m) : I just took off at the critical part of the wave, nearly fall, then did the bottom... It was hollow said the others !
a good rush
Created: Sunday November 3 2013 09:42:24 AM
Modified: Sunday November 3 2013 09:42:24 AM
Friday November 1 2013 08:30:00 AM
Yes ! We were onmy 8 surfers. Waves were rare but I got 6 of them... I was with Pierre who tried for the first time the spot and finish on rocks !
Plus : Good take off at the right time in front of the rocks,Not so bad bottom
Minus : it's not the good board for the spot, it needs a narrower boards. I need to lower for the bottom and finish to go more vertical at the end of the bottom. Be more active with legs
and the video : https://vimeo.com/78453430
Created: Sunday November 3 2013 09:39:34 AM
Modified: Sunday November 3 2013 09:39:34 AM
Tuesday October 29 2013 10:30:00 AM
This morning, it was a good surprise : waves were breaking at les roches blanches with only 2 surfers. After the madness of the last 2 days, it was good to surf with no pressure. The spot worked at hight tide. I felt several time on the boulders with no hurts...
I was very happy and a little tired...
la vidéo : https://vimeo.com/78084478
Created: Tuesday October 29 2013 05:00:46 PM
Modified: Tuesday October 29 2013 05:31:31 PM
Monday October 28 2013 07:30:00 AM
I came very early in the water : before the sunrise. But locals were there too. As waves were rare and the locals were good (that's mean they took off literally on the rocks) and they protected each others for the take off, I couldn't caught any wave. Only 2 in one hour. Of course I can't blame locals as they ripped but I was just very frustrated... No a good session.
Created: Monday October 28 2013 04:20:17 PM
Modified: Monday October 28 2013 04:20:17 PM
Sunday October 27 2013 01:30:00 PM
No waves this morning then the swell came in at lunch. I have started to surf with 1m high waves then the swell increased up to 2m. Waves were powerful and very long. The only problem was the crowd : excellent local competitors, excellent locals, standup competitors from the world cup at la torche.... 50 surfers in the water ! So I was happy to surf at least 8 waves !
On one wave : I was at the enter of the tube and people were crying...
and the video : https://vimeo.com/77911272
Created: Sunday October 27 2013 05:07:42 PM
Modified: Monday October 28 2013 07:59:29 AM
Sunday October 27 2013 10:30:00 AM
I went to surf with my daughter. She just had a shorty !!! She took 4 long waves. Then I went to surf but waves were bad. A big swell is announced (6m) but i's not sure if it will succeed to go inside the bay...
Created: Sunday October 27 2013 11:18:22 AM
Modified: Sunday October 27 2013 11:18:22 AM