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Surf session counter: 3661
Sunday August 31 2008 07:06:59 AM
i was out about 2 weeks ago it was only about 3-4ft clean n i have not ever seen as many cock heads out in one break in one day all the semi pros that live in nulla n emerald crew are all fuk wits dropping in on yu no matter wat i would have understood them droping in on me if i was out there giving them no respected but i was and they just put that bak in ur face when yu call a wave and if ur ever out there n theres a kid called baker he has braces n hes bout 17 if the cunt calls a wave just drop in on him hes the biggest faggot out
Created: Sunday August 31 2008 07:12:11 AM
Modified: Sunday August 31 2008 07:12:11 AM
Sunday August 31 2008 05:42:36 AM
Shorebreak lefts north side of pier, not epic like venice prob was but good...
Created: Monday September 1 2008 05:45:46 AM
Modified: Monday September 1 2008 05:45:46 AM
Saturday August 30 2008 08:30:00 AM
What a good surprise! I thought we will find only powerless 80cm. When I came at the top of the hill, I saw a incredible left whith noone on it... All surfers stayed on the right which was obviously less good. I just ran....I understand that it was because of the strong current.
Nethermind, I surfed nearly alone for 45 mn with incredible lefts. only one meter but the wave was cranking along a perfect sandbank. I have tried all the manoeuvers I knew !!!
After people came. Longboards were not very cool as they took waves without politness. We changed of surf spot but the tide was now too low.
show the potential of the wave.
Created: Saturday August 30 2008 02:46:34 PM
Modified: Saturday August 30 2008 02:46:34 PM
Thursday August 28 2008 09:30:00 AM
One more time with the new fish, trying to get some last waves out of this swell. Decent session, almost nobody out, but not too many waves either.
Created: Thursday August 28 2008 09:25:54 PM
Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 09:25:54 PM
Thursday August 28 2008 06:30:00 AM
Created: Friday August 29 2008 07:52:24 AM
Modified: Friday August 29 2008 07:53:05 AM
Wednesday August 27 2008 04:00:00 PM
Annie, Maggie and I went to campus for a session. It was mushy and a bit crowded (for the number of waves). Annie used the new fish board, and liked it. Got a ride on it.
Created: Thursday August 28 2008 09:23:40 PM
Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 09:23:40 PM
Wednesday August 27 2008 03:49:37 PM
Created: Thursday August 28 2008 05:52:01 PM
Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 05:52:01 PM
Wednesday August 27 2008 10:30:00 AM
Created: Thursday August 28 2008 01:06:27 AM
Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 01:06:27 AM
Wednesday August 27 2008 10:30:00 AM
I expected good waves but the spot closed out...
I just surf outside banks but it was not very good. Just big.
At the end, it was hard to come back because of the BIG clos out. It was hot!
Created: Saturday August 30 2008 02:39:47 PM
Modified: Saturday August 30 2008 02:39:47 PM
Wednesday August 27 2008 08:00:00 AM
Fun time =) Got one good left just before I left.
Created: Wednesday August 27 2008 11:08:30 PM
Modified: Wednesday August 27 2008 11:08:30 PM
Wednesday August 27 2008 06:30:00 AM
Beautiful, RAW beach. Not much surfing this time of year, though.
Fallen palm trees everywhere. At least they weren't floating around in the waves like I heard from before.
If you're going to go, make sure you go with another person because if you drown, no one will know. The whole time, the only signs of life I saw were wild dogs wandering, couple of fishermen that walked by.
Fortunately, I was acquainted with a local surfer there, Roberto, who drove me over to the beach early in the morning. Here's the scoop from him:
- There are probably only a crew of 10 surfers in the whole Punta Cana area
- On Macao, you need a minimum of 8 foot waves in the summer to form a break, and 2 foot waves in the winter to form a break. So come in the winter. Or bring a longboard in the summer.
- You can ride waves for 50+ seconds during the winter.
- Punta Cana is considered the north-facing part of the Dominican as opposed to the south-facing side. The main differentiator are the hurricanes...hurricanes always strike the south-facing side of the island, not the north. The reason is because the Dominican has 2 tallest mountain ranges in the Carribbean on the center of the island: the Central and the Oriental. They form a barrier that keeps most hurricanes on the South Coast. This was true, as Hannah didn't touch Punta Cana, but slammed San Salvador on the South. So don't expect many hurricane waves in this region.
As we left the beach, he spoke of a secret spot called Caligula (sp?) that is the best spot to find waves during the summer. Never saw it.
All in all, if you want to surf during year-round in D.R., go to Puerto Plata.
Created: Thursday September 18 2008 04:03:05 PM
Modified: Thursday September 18 2008 04:03:05 PM
Tuesday August 26 2008 10:00:00 AM
I just return from Japan but we decided to go to the beach as conditions were good.
I good really fun waves, hollow and tubular. I worked on the rotation of my shoulders. A good session.
Created: Saturday August 30 2008 02:36:17 PM
Modified: Saturday August 30 2008 02:36:17 PM
Tuesday August 26 2008 09:00:00 AM
I had to stress test my 6.5 fish board (my first hand shaped board). Emma Wood was big and tubular, but it was too much of a close-out to get any decent rides, so I went down the road to Mondo's. I got a lot of rides there, but the mushiness of the waves there didn't really work with a short little fish. Good news is that the board works great, paddles well, catches waves really nice.
Created: Thursday August 28 2008 09:18:22 PM
Modified: Thursday August 28 2008 09:18:22 PM
Tuesday August 26 2008 08:00:00 AM
Created: Wednesday August 27 2008 01:34:29 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 27 2008 11:09:20 PM
Monday August 25 2008 06:07:49 PM
Created: Monday August 25 2008 10:09:47 PM
Modified: Monday August 25 2008 10:09:47 PM
Sunday August 24 2008 03:00:00 PM
Created: Monday August 25 2008 07:59:36 PM
Modified: Monday August 25 2008 07:59:36 PM
Sunday August 24 2008 10:30:00 AM
Super fun out of season swell! da rights was so rippable. u could do multiple turns, snaps, float sections, boost some airs! da left was wedging just asking for sum 12 o clock snaps. sum wave had some little barrels. Was fun to see all da boys and girls out and ripping. I boosted a big air and Jeff Johnson was blowing my head up telling me how sick it was on my little board. He was checking it out and said Makani did a good job and i was surfing the board well! Was nice to see everyone and I can't wait for this winter! Aloha
Created: Sunday August 24 2008 03:49:50 AM
Modified: Sunday August 24 2008 04:02:22 AM
Sunday August 24 2008 10:30:00 AM
Created: Monday August 25 2008 07:56:32 PM
Modified: Monday August 25 2008 07:56:32 PM
Sunday August 24 2008 04:00:00 AM
I was kinda spent form da earlier sessions, but still was fun. probably chill tomorrow cause i have rash on my stomach, thighs, and underarm. love days like this. i'm gonna have a few beer and crash out!
Created: Monday August 25 2008 03:51:57 AM
Modified: Monday August 25 2008 03:51:57 AM
Saturday August 23 2008 07:20:00 PM
Created: Sunday August 24 2008 12:30:03 AM
Modified: Sunday August 24 2008 12:30:03 AM
Saturday August 23 2008 11:00:00 AM
Created: Monday August 25 2008 10:20:19 PM
Modified: Monday August 25 2008 10:20:19 PM
Saturday August 23 2008 07:30:00 AM
And th my last session in Japan was not the best. 12 surfers at the peak and the sell was powerful, close outs and mushy... I took several waves but none were good.
Nethermind, my trip in japan was good !
Created: Wednesday August 27 2008 09:26:44 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 27 2008 09:32:30 AM
Saturday August 23 2008 07:00:00 AM
Created: Monday August 25 2008 10:18:39 PM
Modified: Monday August 25 2008 10:18:39 PM
Friday August 22 2008 04:30:00 PM
Just a look at Ataka and I decided to jump into the water. Waves were smaller than in the morning but the swell was longer and the waves were better. I took a lot of them and it was fun !
a good short session.
Created: Wednesday August 27 2008 09:14:20 AM
Modified: Saturday November 8 2008 03:12:05 PM
Friday August 22 2008 10:00:00 AM
Kevin and Stacy's third time surfing in as many days. They are really hooked, and with my foot feeling good enough to get wet (I sprained in on my previous session) we had a great time out there. They both loved it. I bet they will be back soon.
Created: Monday August 25 2008 06:04:20 PM
Modified: Monday August 25 2008 06:04:20 PM
Friday August 22 2008 07:30:00 AM
Good surprise this morning: there were glassy waves! And they were pretty good. We were 3 to 5 surfers with 2 brasilians. I took a lot of waves. Waves were a bit weak but so;e of them were very good. I took a big hollow left.
All the surfers wear wetsuits. I didn't understood as the water was warm. But they explained to me it was to avoid "kurage" (jellyfish). But ｉ didn't get hurt.
Created: Saturday August 23 2008 02:26:29 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 27 2008 09:16:30 AM
Friday August 22 2008 06:56:25 AM
Created: Saturday August 23 2008 04:58:04 AM
Modified: Saturday August 23 2008 04:58:04 AM
Friday August 22 2008 02:09:57 AM
4:30 AM the alarm goes off ... knock it off the nightstand... it goes off again, pick it up and drop it on the floor, finally turn it off but Destruct'o my daughters 15 pound Himalayan is now awake, jumps up on the bed and sticks its paw in my ear ... wake up! OK feed the cat, get ready, open the door to put my JL Super Fish outside ... and the cat bolts ... now I have to chase her down. Finally load the Solara.
Head down 7th Street, CD blasting a Marty Robbins cowboy lament, to the 405 Freeway south on-ramp, by Cal State University, Long Beach but first have to find a gas station that's open ... good 7-11 ... get gas and a cup of coffee ... big mistake.
No traffic, keeping it under 80 MPH watching for CHP. Zip- Irvine, Zip-Mission-Viejo, Zip-Laguna Niguel, Zip- San Juan Capistrano, Zip-San Clemente now San Onofre, Cristianitos Road turn-off coming up. Fifty miles in 45 minutes, not bad.
Its not quite 6AM, sky is still dark purple and already there is a line of cars. Kids with boards under their arm riding bikes, skateboards and even an electric scooter. Start the long trek down the path to Trestles.
Half way down the hill the 7-11 coffee strikes ... Oh no, got to go, bad. Run behind some bushes, scaring a cottontail and squat, right on a prickle, ouch, then pee in my shoe, lovely! Cross under the railroad trestle by San Mateo Creek, couple of Egrets fly overhead, laughing.
'Uppers' looks pretty good, not too crowded, 3-4 foot, low tide with clean glassy conditions. I want to surf 'Lowers' so I plod the extra half a mile down the beach in the hard sand by the waters edge. Boy look at all those Pelicans out in the break, wait a minute, there not birds, there people, can't be ... yes, must be close to 30 guys out, and its only first light!
'Lowers' is a world class, perfect a-frame reef break. Sand and cobble-stone bottom with some seaweed. The peak is so clean and easy, its like a blank sheet of paper, you can draw anything on it.
It's waist to chest with occasional head high sets. Clean, paper thin, hollow lefts and rights. There are no long boards out there and the surfers are good, very good and very, very good! Guys taking off deep in the peak, come flying off the bottom into a snap 360, or blasting out of the tube into another 360 or a front-side air!
Paddle outside with an older guy and a board builder from Puerto Rico, who just got back from surfing 10 foot Tavarua with Sonny Garcia, he is over here looking for a computer cad shaping machine. My 7'2" Super Fish can out paddle their 5'6" Thrusters and actually snag some sick waves! The lefts were steeper with a following curl, but the rights were longer and had a nice inside wall. I surf my forehand better on my 9'2" so I was mostly going right. You take off right in the suck up in the middle of the peak, its a fast, steep hollow take off and you need lots of speed.
When everyone out there is so good you make sure you bring your 'A' game, don't mess up and work every wave, hard. About 8:30 AM the crowd thinned and with the tide push it got a little bigger, but still inconsistent. Even though each peak handles two guys, there is only one take off spot, so its a lot of paddle positioning work and the water was quite chilly, probably low 60's. I lasted until around 9:30 AM when the sun finally came out. Cold and dead beat limped up the hill (got a blister on my heal from sand in my sneaker) made good time back home ... took a shower and passed out ... to tired for breakfast!
Created: Thursday August 21 2008 02:30:59 AM
Modified: Friday August 22 2008 03:43:09 PM
Thursday August 21 2008 05:00:00 PM
First try for Marina, Bruno's daughter. Conditionswere not perfect for an attempt! Established north wind,very strong current, and powerful waves. Marina did not succeed well.Only on her knees :( After this, I took several waves. 4 were good. A massive take off on a 1.5m swell. The shore break was not terrific but there were so many people on the shore it was difficult not hitting anybody! This is definitely not a spot for an august session...
Created: Thursday August 21 2008 10:48:46 PM
Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 10:48:46 PM
Thursday August 21 2008 04:51:39 AM
Created: Thursday August 21 2008 04:53:29 AM
Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 04:53:29 AM
Thursday August 21 2008 03:30:00 AM
Created: Friday August 22 2008 07:03:50 PM
Modified: Friday August 22 2008 07:03:50 PM
Wednesday August 20 2008 05:30:00 PM
Created: Thursday August 21 2008 11:40:18 PM
Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 11:40:18 PM
Wednesday August 20 2008 04:30:00 PM
Now the tropical depression was here. And it was big, windy. Nearly it was too much !
I jumped into the water to surf with 2 other surfers: at the peak, I discovered thet the other surfer was brasilian who was working at the local Sony's factory .
Waves were hard to surf and I was backside. But I got some good ones. Imagine a big shore break. You have to pay attention to the tripods. Don't coma at less then 15-20m or you will be projected by the rip into the tripods. Pretty ugly.
Created: Thursday August 21 2008 09:46:35 AM
Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 09:46:35 AM
Wednesday August 20 2008 09:00:00 AM
Took Maggie's friend Jennifer out surfing for the first time. She really liked it. Also took my new, hand shaped 6.5 fish out. It paddled and rode very well, but a fun broke out of it's binding and I had to take it in.
Created: Monday August 25 2008 06:01:14 PM
Modified: Monday August 25 2008 06:01:14 PM
Wednesday August 20 2008 06:44:49 AM
Surfline said we're "supposed" to see a build up by this afternoon and we didn't see anything except onshore winds & choppyness.. It's actually fun because there is no more than 7 people out. Sometimes there'll be only 3 people out. Anything more than 7 people would've really suck. I was hoping to see a bull shark but we saw a few manta rays getting air. Tomorrow supposed to be 8 feet. I seriously doubt it. Maybe 5 feet and that's pushing it. The people in the line up are cool. But then again, we're all tourist staying at Cardon resort.
Created: Wednesday August 20 2008 07:01:20 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 20 2008 07:01:20 AM
Tuesday August 19 2008 01:50:53 PM
Created: Monday September 22 2008 01:51:37 PM
Modified: Monday September 22 2008 01:52:00 PM
Tuesday August 19 2008 11:00:00 AM
I knew the swell was coming.But at 9am, it was completely flat. And I have to surf before 12 because we will go for a trip.
I decided to come back at 10h30. Waves were 50cm... I wait half an hour and waves increase until 70cm. I jumped into the water just to surf something.
But after 20mn, swell increased and I get fun 1,20m waves:
But the swell continued to increased until 1,50 solid!
As I was alone and the outside current was strong, I decided to stop.
Created: Thursday August 21 2008 09:40:20 AM
Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 09:41:15 AM
Tuesday August 19 2008 10:49:25 AM
Created: Monday September 22 2008 01:50:26 PM
Modified: Monday September 22 2008 01:50:26 PM
Monday August 18 2008 05:48:10 PM
Created: Monday September 22 2008 01:49:07 PM
Modified: Monday September 22 2008 01:49:07 PM
Monday August 18 2008 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday August 18 2008 08:52:03 PM
Modified: Monday August 18 2008 08:52:03 PM
Sunday August 17 2008 11:00:00 AM
I am a beginner and need to rent board/wetsuit. This beach is beautiful and really a fun place to surf. Plus there is Koa Surf School which is an awesome place to rent equipment from and hang out for the day. I had a wonderful surf day here.
The waves (for me) are best between low and high tide. During high tide there are alot of body boarders near the shore.
Created: Tuesday August 19 2008 11:54:46 AM
Modified: Tuesday August 19 2008 11:54:46 AM
Sunday August 17 2008 08:00:00 AM
Created: Monday September 22 2008 01:47:26 PM
Modified: Friday October 24 2008 11:08:48 AM
Saturday August 16 2008 01:45:14 PM
une puitain de vague de malade
Created: Monday September 22 2008 01:46:15 PM
Modified: Friday October 24 2008 11:09:00 AM
Friday August 15 2008 09:20:11 PM
Created: Saturday August 16 2008 09:24:14 PM
Modified: Monday August 18 2008 12:04:11 AM
Friday August 15 2008 07:44:02 PM
Created: Monday September 22 2008 01:44:51 PM
Modified: Friday October 24 2008 11:09:13 AM
Friday August 15 2008 07:15:00 AM
I have waited a long for this session...10 years...It 's the first time I surfed here. I wake up early and decided to have a look. I didn't expect any waves. When I arrived, it was surfable: 1m waves were rolling along the beach.
Fun waves: it's a shorebreak which is not a close out ! I had to rediscover the board I got: a thruster I habe brought in Japan. Waves were short and hollow.I surfed with 6 other japaneses who were very surprised to see me surfing here.
At the end: not my best session and my best surf but I was really happy to surf here.
Created: Friday August 15 2008 06:44:31 AM
Modified: Friday August 15 2008 06:52:36 AM