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Surf session counter: 3669
Session: wedges at north
Written by motomatt 
Tuesday May 19 2009 01:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Cronulla, Australia
Session's Rate: 
Nb waves ridden: 4
Length of the surf session: 30 mi hours
Surfboard ridden: Nomad Chris James
Fins: O&E Hydro
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Ledgey
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
sport again nice small wedges at north got barreled once and tried airing and failed.
all in all good sesh wished we stayed longer.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday May 19 2009 09:20:59 AM
Modified: Tuesday May 19 2009 09:20:59 AM
Hits: 961
Session: Tough Boys
Written by herwig
Monday May 18 2009 06:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Messanges, France
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Weather and water temp: Thunderstorms,25°C,Water 16°C
Waves height: 3m-3.5m / 10ft-12ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Over night the waveless sea turned into a soupbowl! A warm front passed the coastline and thunderstorms all night long pushed the waves up to a dangerous level. Only 3 locals made the way out but couldn'd catch a wave.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 30 2009 02:59:03 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:42:24 PM
Hits: 861
Session: KK and I
Written by gutobrasil
Monday May 18 2009 05:00:20 PM
Surf spot: Itamambuca, Brazil
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 8
Length of the surf session: 0.8 hours
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Cool session on Monday, with a spectacular sunset behind the mountains. Not many people out as this was a weekday and we São Paulo surfers were back to their grind.
Buddies:
Created: Friday May 22 2009 01:49:36 AM
Modified: Friday May 22 2009 01:49:36 AM
Hits: 1368
Session: Flat spells
Written by herwig
Sunday May 17 2009 10:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Vieux Boucau (north beach), France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: No wind
Weather and water temp: Sunny 25°C, Water 16°C
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
After a couple of days with small swell it calmed down more and more and leaded to what I call a "flat spell" - f**k!
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:21:53 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:40:00 PM
Hits: 1212
Session: Lonely session
Written by yann
Sunday May 17 2009 08:30:00 AM
Session's Rate:
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7'3"
Weather and water temp: Air: 10°C, Water: 14°C
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
I was not sure to have good conditions but I got them: fun 2 m waves. It was multipeak but I got really good ones with my gun. I tried to take off in the inside and it was fun to do some good bottoms with the gun.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday May 17 2009 12:01:17 PM
Modified: Sunday May 17 2009 12:01:17 PM
Hits: 639
Session:
Written by Eric_G
Saturday May 16 2009 06:34:46 PM
Surf spot: Ventura Point, United States of America
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Saturday May 16 2009 06:35:10 PM
Modified: Saturday May 16 2009 06:35:10 PM
Hits: 1171
Session: Wanda
Written by motomatt
Saturday May 16 2009 12:30:00 PM
Surf spot: Cronulla, Australia
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 8-10
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: Nomad Chris James
Fins: O&E Hydro
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fast
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- One peak
- Close out
Description:
nice day
a surf comp was on at wanda and the surf was pumping
used my new board for the first time and loved it
got barreled a couple times and caught a shorey that put me within of my life anyways enjoyable day out
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday May 19 2009 09:09:51 AM
Modified: Tuesday May 19 2009 09:09:51 AM
Hits: 847
Session: Jupiter Surf Trip
Written by Raspy
Saturday May 16 2009 09:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Jupiter Inlet North South Side, United States of America
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: Countless
Length of the surf session: 7 hours
Surfboard ridden: LongBoard
Fins: Triset
Weather and water temp: Perfect
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Went out to Jupiter yesterday with the cousins. Had the best surf trip ever. Beach all to ourselves and just out having fun. Recommend it to anyone who is usually around South Beach.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday May 17 2009 05:52:12 PM
Modified: Sunday May 17 2009 05:52:12 PM
Hits: 1058
Session: Beach break
Written by herwig
Friday May 15 2009 11:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Ondres-Plage, France
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 4
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: Hybrid 6.9
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: Sunny 28°C, Water 17°C
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Close out
Description:
Ondres is a typical beach break with extreme shorebreak when low tide coefficient is small. To snap a board is very easy done there. According to this I had ben very defensive in the break.
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:37:18 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:37:18 PM
Hits: 927
Session: Bad south wind
Written by herwig
Thursday May 14 2009 02:30:00 PM
Session's Rate:
Wind Strength: Established
Weather and water temp: Gloudy 22°C, Water 16°C
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out
Description:
Hendaye is a goos spot when the other breaks are too high or bumpy. Unfortunately the wind came sideshore fm south so it was closing out. Boogie boarders and tourists tried to smash their boards and bodies. Nothing for me....
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:29:06 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 30 2009 07:29:06 PM
Hits: 1078
Session: Barriers in the heads
Written by herwig
Wednesday May 13 2009 11:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Anglet Les Cavaliers, France
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: No wind
Weather and water temp: Sunny 23°C, Water 15°C
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
We came to Les Cavaliers and got shocked: 2mtr barriers at the parking, only the small central lot (around 30 places) free for higher vans. All the other lots reserved for tourists. Instead of giving tickets to drivers of "houses on wheels" who are blocking 3 to 4 lots with their swanky campervans they debarred all others with higher cars, too. The waves matched to this: POOR.
Good Bye Anglet.
Buddies:
Created: Monday June 22 2009 11:00:15 PM
Modified: Monday June 22 2009 11:00:15 PM
Hits: 1186
Session: Last minute take off
Written by herwig
Tuesday May 12 2009 03:45:00 PM
Surf spot: Anglet - Marinella, France
Session's Rate:
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 4
Length of the surf session: 0.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: Hybrid 6.9
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: Sunny 21°C, Water 15°C
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
We left the windy Med at monday morning and drove all along the picturesque snowy Pyrenees. Unfortunately I forgot to check the tide table so we came to the Basque coast just half an hour before the tide was too high to provide rideable waves. Boards down in a hurry and into the blue...after a couple of minutes it was finished.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday June 21 2009 06:54:31 PM
Modified: Sunday June 21 2009 06:54:31 PM
Hits: 706
Session: 1st time w/ new board
Written by tbharte
Monday May 11 2009 12:00:00 AM
Surf spot: El Porto, United States of America
Session's Rate:
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday May 12 2009 08:15:17 AM
Modified: Tuesday May 12 2009 08:15:17 AM
Hits: 618
Session: Stormy Sunday
Written by herwig
Sunday May 10 2009 11:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Gruissan Plage, France
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: Mini-Mal 6.11
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: Clouds/Rainy Water 14°C
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Strong east wind brought waves but conditions were not worth to get wet.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday June 21 2009 06:25:21 PM
Modified: Sunday June 21 2009 06:25:21 PM
Hits: 1051
Session: Nice Sunday
Written by POBB
Sunday May 10 2009 10:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Diano Marina, Italy
Session's Rate:
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: 10 +
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: RRd 8.8
Fins: 3
Weather and water temp: sun - 20°
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Mutant
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Good session with my friends...
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday May 12 2009 11:35:49 AM
Modified: Tuesday May 12 2009 11:35:49 AM
Hits: 782
Session: Crappy barrier
Written by herwig
Saturday May 9 2009 06:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Les Ayguades, France
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Very strong
Weather and water temp: Sund/Clauds, Water 14°C
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
First spot we cheched out after arriving at the coast. 15 hours trip and then this: A very strong blasting east (onshore) wind destroyed all the small waves only leaving foam all around the place. To make things even worse some fools from city council rised a crappy 2 meter barrier at the entry of the parking place. Good bye!
Buddies:
Created: Sunday June 21 2009 06:34:59 PM
Modified: Sunday June 21 2009 06:42:58 PM
Hits: 1018
Session: Only 2 waves !
Written by yann
Saturday May 9 2009 07:15:00 AM
Surf spot: Lafiténia, France
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 2
Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'8
Weather and water temp: Air: 15°C Water: 15°C
Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Hollow
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Bowl
Description:
The swell rose up during the night up to 3m. I went to Guethary but the swell was to big for me: I had only my 6'8"and waves were around 4m... I decided to go to Lafitenia again. When I arrived, there were already 20 surfers in the water and it was big powerful and ugly: 2 to 2.5m on the reef.
The shorebreak was big. After a long paddle I discovered the powerful current which took you directly to the reef if you take a set on your head. But the biggest problem was the high level of surfing in the water: on the 20 surfers, only 5 of them took nearly all the waves... 5 other surfers took some waves and the others just watched. The best surfers were really impressive: late take-of close to the reef, ugly bottom then they started to surf the long wall. They just took all.
I resume: a big swell, a narrow take-off, a dangerous current, really good surfers, a fierce competition, I was backside, it was my second session at this spot and I was hurted few days before at my shoulder...
I have been destroyed by two bigger sets (more than 3 meters). They are one more problem: you hesitate to go near the reef because you are frightened to take a set on your head (one every 30mn...)
I took "only" 2 waves but they were big (not the biggest but some of the solid sets), powerful and it was hard because of the competition. I was really happy to manage to take this.
First lesson: take a gun if you want to surf Guethary
Second lesson: be at your top if you want to compete at Lafitenia on a big swell
to road to Lafitenia
Ouch, on the head (from Mowgli, surfrepotes.fr)
heuu, hollow.... (from Mowgli, surfrepotes.fr)
Buddies:
Created: Sunday May 10 2009 10:39:14 PM
Modified: Tuesday May 12 2009 10:38:55 AM
Hits: 1774
Session:
Written by Capsurf
Friday May 8 2009 01:38:02 PM
Surf spot: Saint Tugen, France
Description:
!!!!AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
YOU CAN LOSE YOUR SPONSORS
&
REPUTATION
If you lie about locals, it will be worst!
some of us don't have a reputation! 
...& It's not 2 stars by the way
Buddies:
Created: Friday May 8 2009 01:40:02 PM
Modified: Tuesday May 26 2009 04:44:34 PM
Hits: 800
Session: Lafitenia alone !
Written by yann
Friday May 8 2009 07:15:00 AM
Surf spot: Lafiténia, France
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0" fish
Weather and water temp: Air: 15°C Water: 15°C
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
I never surfed Lafitenia and didn't knew where it was. This morning, I wake up early and, with a good map, I went to this spot. It was empty and beautiful 1.20 m glassy waves were breaking. I just ran on the road and jumped into the water. I was alone ! It's absolutely silly when you know that it one of the most crowded spot in France... I surfed 2 waves alone: it's a long right with a sometimes ugly take off. After, it's a fun easy wave with long walls where you can worj your cut back. After we were only two and surfedthe right alone for 40mn. When I went out, there were 20 surfers and it became hard to surf.
Buddies:
Created: Sunday May 10 2009 10:18:11 PM
Modified: Sunday May 10 2009 10:18:11 PM
Hits: 1332
Session: all time clubbies
Written by jakeh
Monday May 4 2009 02:08:29 PM
Surf spot: club cap, Australia
Session's Rate:
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: heaps
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: Xanadu
Fins: twin
Weather and water temp: perfect
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Fun
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular
- Mutant
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
- Close out
Description:
all the charts said that there was no swell but we went down any way. when we saw rafts we were frothing because there was some swell but the banks were gutted so we went to club cap expecting it to be the same. but when we got to the check point we saw a set come through and it was nuts. 3 mabye 4 waves that broke from way out side the groyne and wrapt all the way through the the inside peak and just stop and then shut down 2 metres from the shore. top to bottem barrels all the way.
i was in my wet suit and out the back in 4 seconds flat. what was to happen next will be in my memory til the day i die.
first wave that came through i take but my line is to high, the lip hits me in the back and i belly flop and just escape hitting the bottem. i come up just in time to see my best mate dissapear under a curten that was two foot thick. it just sollowed him whole.
then a real wide set came through and i just made it to the shoulder and i swing right and pull in to a hugestand up pit and get mowed down. icome up and paddle back out and get the next one and try a huge re-entry but im on a twin fin for the first time and loose control this time my head does find the sand which by this stage is acting as concrete.
jacob makes what is probaly the biggest wave of the day so far but the swells building and where charging harder then we ever hhave done at this place. and where all by our selves.
i take a inside one and it wedges up nicely i come off the bottom and pull a horizontal floater but the back wash hits me in the face and i just got pounded. i dont know what jacob's doing and i couldent care less.
on the next one i dont make the drop. and i paddle out a bit wider and sit up about 30 seconds later i just this screaming from the shore i looked up and it was jacob yalling to g i lok around and the wave of the day was there and i went for it. i got up under the lip and set my rail hopping for a barrel but i can see it was crumble i turn down and accelrate in to three or four hard turns. and just step off on the sand.
next one i got took me over the falls we got a few more before the sun went downbut we had to go home
for me a good day down there is like catching up with an old friend silghtly changed but some how diffrent i havent seen her turn on for almost six months but good things come to those wait
Buddies:
Created: Monday May 4 2009 01:10:23 PM
Modified: Monday May 4 2009 03:43:48 PM
Hits: 1108
Session: North Nulla
Written by motomatt
Monday May 4 2009 01:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Cronulla, Australia
Session's Rate:
Nb waves ridden: 3
Length of the surf session: .45 hours
Surfboard ridden: Manta Phantom
Fins: Ocean And Earth
Weather and water temp: warm 22c
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Fast
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
godd for sport
snapped my board so......
decent effort
Buddies:
Created: Monday May 11 2009 10:27:56 AM
Modified: Monday May 11 2009 10:27:56 AM
Hits: 633
Session: solid
Written by yann
Sunday May 3 2009 08:45:00 AM
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 2:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0" fish
Weather and water temp: Air: 15°C, Water: 14°C
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
It was solid and multipeak: so it was hard to take waves. I also make the classic mistake: I took a too small board, my fish. I managed to take wave but it was difficult to make big turns on the small board. Nethermind, I got some good one. I remember 2 big hollow lefts and a good right (I was well placed on my board and have done fun rollers).
I met also angry locals (angry with everyone). They were pretty funny in fact !
the view from lacanau
Buddies:
Created: Sunday May 3 2009 03:21:48 PM
Modified: Sunday May 3 2009 03:21:48 PM
Hits: 557
Session:
Written by Chocolate Fish
Friday May 1 2009 09:07:22 PM
Surf spot: Bolsa Chica, United States of America
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: ?
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: chocolate fish
Fins: quad
Weather and water temp: 60's
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Soft
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Friday May 1 2009 09:12:39 PM
Modified: Friday May 1 2009 09:12:39 PM
Hits: 639
Session:
Written by skan
Thursday April 30 2009 04:00:00 PM
Surf spot: De langre, Spain
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday February 2 2010 04:47:39 PM
Modified: Tuesday February 2 2010 04:47:39 PM
Hits: 502
Session: Canggu 's rights
Written by D7Seas
Thursday April 30 2009 04:00:00 AM
Session's Rate:
Nb waves ridden: 20
Length of the surf session: 3:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'3
Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft
Waves Quality:
- Fast
- Hollow
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Wednesday May 11 2011 03:36:03 PM
Modified: Wednesday May 11 2011 03:37:15 PM
Hits: 1156
Session:
Written by skan
Thursday April 30 2009 12:00:00 AM
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday January 31 2010 11:26:29 PM
Modified: Sunday January 31 2010 11:34:06 PM
Hits: 688
Session:
Written by tbharte
Tuesday April 28 2009 12:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Manhattan Beach Pier, United States of America
Session's Rate:
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday May 7 2009 10:55:23 PM
Modified: Thursday May 7 2009 10:55:23 PM
Hits: 791
Session: Che Bombe...
Written by POBB
Sunday April 26 2009 05:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Anchor point, Morocco
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: BIC 9.0
Fins: SINGLE 8"
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Powerful
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Friday July 24 2009 10:29:27 AM
Modified: Friday July 24 2009 10:29:27 AM
Hits: 1293
Session: Un sogno...
Written by POBB
Saturday April 25 2009 11:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Imessouane, the bay, Morocco
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Very strong
Nb waves ridden: 1
Length of the surf session: 1 hours
Surfboard ridden: BIC 9.0
Fins: SINGLE 8"
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Powerful
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- One peak
- Bowl
Description:
Appena arrivati onde spettacolari, dopo un po il vento ha rinforzato e si è rovinato tutto...
Buddies:
Created: Friday July 24 2009 10:18:45 AM
Modified: Friday July 24 2009 10:18:45 AM
Hits: 711
Session:
Written by DrC123
Saturday April 25 2009 07:30:00 AM
Surf spot: Ray Bay, United States of America
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: Lots
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: Quad
Fins: 2+1
Weather and water temp: 72F/68F
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Fast
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
Description:
When its 'Springtime in LA' and 102F! Global warming indeed, last week we broke record temperatures in SOCAL. Perfect 'Blue Bird' conditions with morning light offshore's but guess what ... dead flat!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGp0hCxSg98
Things have improved the past couple of days with a good 190 degree southern hemi swell and 300 NW pushing sets up to head high or a little better. Conditions however are not as good, light morning onshores with fog and heavy overcast.
Things have improved the past couple of days with a good 190 degree southern hemi swell and 300 NW pushing sets up to head high or a little better. Conditions however are not as good, light morning onshores with fog and heavy overcast.Thursday rode the Kingfisher with a Quad setup ... OK for the bigger waves, tracking through sections and stable noserides but don't like the arc turns. No pivot or thrust off the bottom. Friday set it up with just the 4.6" outside Future's and a 4" trailer, much better!
Update:
Saturday morning the swell was still running overhead on the sets with an incoming low tide making it a long, long paddle with lots of white water. Crossed up mix of 190 southern hemi and 300 NW with some lump, bump and cross chop from a light onshore. Took my 7'2” MR SuperFish so it was a bit of a struggle getting over to Cuda's by the north wall. Super crowded with everyone from beginners SUP's to shortboarders from the OC as Huntington Pier was walled out.
Some narly left handers into the breakwall that folded in on themselves while jacking up from refraction. Was sitting outside in perfect position when a huge set came rolling through. Paddled over to the middle and waited for the third monster peak. Got it, pushed over, hit the bottom and smacked out and up. Holding my breath, crouched deep in its belly as it reared over me. I could hear the crowd caught inside yelling to get my attention and not run them down!
All I could see in the corner of my eye was colors, black/white/yellow/blue as I flew by... like a running back in football running to daylight. Hit the shoulder with a sigh of relief and a gasp for air!
Fight or Flight:
Old Kirra:
Late one warm spring afternoon with a light southerly offshore breeze paddled out at Kirra Point, think 3rd point Malibu. It was mid week and not too crowded. Surf was a solid shoulder to overhead and breaking cleanly on the rock bottom out on the point before they built the groin. As the swell wrapped around inside it began to section and suck up as it hit the foot or so of water over the inside sand bar in front of the rocks. Kirra is an extremely hard breaking, fast wave that speed up faster and faster as it wraps and boomerangs - you need sky rockets up your but to make it all the way!
Was picking the smaller sets that lined up outside shooting down the line and kicking out as they hit the inside section to avoid getting caught in the nasty rip that sucks you north whenever its gets any size. Ready to go in I waited for a final big set. Here it came, took off, hit the bottom, turned fast, trimmed and crouched low as the lip came over my head. Oh, No too late to kick out, I was committed! Grabbed the rail staring at the nose of my board and the discolored water being sucked up from the sand bar. I hope I don’t hit a rock or I’m a goner! Normally when you get a cover up or tube its short and sweet, you can see the shoulder in front of you and its just a matter of making it or not.
On this wave I was already deep in the tube when a big section just closed right over me. There was no daylight just green sandy water. I guess the so called “fight or flight” survival reflex must have kicked in, time slowed down to a crawl. I stopped breathing, running on pure adrenaline, the roar of the wave became silent, my eyes focused into tunnel vision. Seems as I could even feel the sticky wax on my board as I shot like a shell down the barrel of a cannon. It seem to go on and on forever, my body making minute adjustments on auto pilot to keep the board on track suddenly I saw a small patch of light ... was I going to make it ... yes the hole opened up to a green shoulder but just for an instant ... then I saw another big section rearing up ... I power turned from the bottom at full speed out and over the top ... exhausted!
Fight or Flight:
“If a stimulus is perceived as a threat, an intense and prolonged discharge of the locus ceruleus activates the sympathetic division of the autonomic nervous system This activation is associated with specific physiological actions in the system, both directly and indirectly through the release of epinephrine (adrenaline) and to a lesser extent norepinephrine from the medulla of the adrenal glands. The release is triggered by acetylcholine released from preganglionic sympathetic nerves. The other major factor in the acute stress response is the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis.
When in the bloodstream, epinephrine rapidly prepares the body for action in emergency situations. The hormone boosts the supply of oxygen and glucose to the brain and muscles, while suppressing other non-emergency bodily processes (digestion in particular).
It increases heart rate and stroke volume, dilates the pupils, and constricts arterioles in the skin and gastrointestinal tract while dilating arterioles in skeletal muscles. It elevates the blood sugar level by increasing catabolism of glycogen to glucose in the liver, and at the same time begins the breakdown of lipids in fat cells. Like some other stress hormones, epinephrine also has a suppressive effect on the immune system."
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Acceleration of heart and lung action
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Paling or flushing, or alternating between both
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Inhibition of stomach and upper-intestinal action (digestion slows down or stops)
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General effect on the sphincters of the body
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Constriction of blood vessels in many parts of the body
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Liberation of nutrients for muscular action
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Dilation of blood vessels for muscles
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Inhibition of Lacrimal gland (responsible for tear production) and salivation
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Relaxation of bladder
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Evacuation of colon
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Inhibition of erection
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Auditory Exclusion (loss of hearing)
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Tunnel Vision (loss of peripheral vision)
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Acceleration of instantaneous reflexes
Buddies:
Created: Saturday April 25 2009 06:37:18 AM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 01:44:59 AM
Hits: 762
Session:
Written by tbharte
Friday April 24 2009 12:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Manhattan Beach Pier, United States of America
Session's Rate:
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Thursday May 7 2009 10:53:08 PM
Modified: Thursday May 7 2009 10:53:08 PM
Hits: 531
Session:
Written by chris
Tuesday April 21 2009 02:00:00 PM
Session's Rate:
Wind Strength: Established
Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Tubular
- Mutant
Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak
- Bowl
Description:
I havn't surfed HT's, just took pictures from the beach. I clearly not have the required level to surf HT's, and this is definitely not an option with a broken coxis bone !!!!!
I'll add some pictures of Remi, Paul & Teiki I took from the beach.
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 27 2009 03:04:50 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 04:03:17 PM
Hits: 1867
Session: 4/20 surf
Written by hellarad
Monday April 20 2009 09:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Flagler, United States of America
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 8
Length of the surf session: 1 1/2 hours
Surfboard ridden: 7'10" funshape
Fins: 2
Weather and water temp: good
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- Walls
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Tuesday April 21 2009 06:16:07 PM
Modified: Tuesday April 21 2009 06:16:07 PM
Hits: 771
Session: My worst session ever !
Written by chris
Monday April 20 2009 08:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Macaronis, Indonesia
Session's Rate: 
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 2
Length of the surf session: 0.75 hours
Surfboard ridden: SuperFish 7S
Fins: Quattro
Weather and water temp: Sunny, 30°c !
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
I started to take photos with my Subal housing. After 4/5 waves with paul & Remi, I dive under a big wave and lost a fin :-(
Then, I get my board I started to take some waves. Just in and Hugo grab me a good wave, paddeling on the inside. Fucking guy. Spending 45 min to take picture and he still fight to grab waves over me. That's not fair!!!
I was upset, then get a 1.5m wave and fall after the take off. The wave smach me on the reef and kick my ass (maybe a broken coxis bone!). Some cuts on the coral and a big pain in my ass !!!!
Worst session ever...
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 27 2009 03:00:17 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 04:04:03 PM
Hits: 2127
Session:
Written by chris
Sunday April 19 2009 02:00:00 PM
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 11
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: SuperFish 7S
Fins: Quattro
Weather and water temp: Sunny, 30°c !
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Cut back: Need to move back my rear foot !
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:54:32 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:54:32 PM
Hits: 1436
Session:
Written by Wantoine
Sunday April 19 2009 11:47:04 AM
Surf spot: La Baie des Sables, France
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Sunday April 19 2009 11:47:52 AM
Modified: Sunday April 19 2009 11:47:52 AM
Hits: 718
Session:
Written by chris
Sunday April 19 2009 08:00:00 AM
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 9
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: SuperFish 7S
Fins: Quattro
Weather and water temp: Sunny, 30°c !
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Testing the cut back with the quatro; no so easy!
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:53:23 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:53:23 PM
Hits: 1239
Session:
Written by chris
Saturday April 18 2009 02:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Macaronis, Indonesia
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 7
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: SuperFish 7S
Fins: Quattro
Weather and water temp: Sunny, 30°c !
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
The takeoff backside grab rails works fine !
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:47:19 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:47:19 PM
Hits: 1559
Session:
Written by chris
Saturday April 18 2009 08:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Macaronis, Indonesia
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 12
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: SuperFish 7S
Fins: Quattro
Weather and water temp: Sunny, 30°c !
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:45:35 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:46:02 PM
Hits: 1174
Session: Funny Waves
Written by yann
Saturday April 18 2009 07:15:00 AM
Surf spot: Biscarrosse, France
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'0" fish
Weather and water temp: Air: 4°C (!), Water: 12°C
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Fun
Description:
The waves were a little bigger than expected and I was just at the right moment after the low tide. We were only 2. I got mainly 1m to 1.2m waves but sometimes, beautiful and hollow 1.5m sets were breaking.
I got 2 of the biggest waves: hollow right were I was backside and at the enter of the tube. A really good memory.
Several photos of me:
my preferred one
Buddies:
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 10:14:21 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 10:14:21 PM
Hits: 686
Session: 1st Macaronis
Written by chris
Friday April 17 2009 02:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Macaronis, Indonesia
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 7
Length of the surf session: 1.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: SuperFish 7S
Fins: Quattro
Weather and water temp: Sunny, 30°c !
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Tubular
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Very nice wave. not alone: Brazilians and Aussies...
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:43:29 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:43:29 PM
Hits: 1378
Session: Getting better...
Written by chris
Friday April 17 2009 08:00:00 AM
Surf spot: Lances left, Indonesia
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 7
Length of the surf session: 2 hours
Surfboard ridden: SuperFish 7S
Fins: Quattro
Weather and water temp: Sunny, 30°c !
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 27 2009 02:41:40 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 02:41:40 PM
Hits: 1065
Session: Evening Glassy
Written by yann
Thursday April 16 2009 08:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Biscarrosse, France
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'8
Weather and water temp: Air: 19°C, Water:12°C
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Waves Quality:
- Ordinary
- Fun
Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
Description:
Still the wind which has dropped down at the end of the day. The waves were mellow but glassy. The sets were rare and the competition against longboarders was hard !
Buddies:
Created: Saturday April 18 2009 09:44:03 PM
Modified: Saturday April 18 2009 10:15:57 PM
Hits: 655
Session:
Written by chris
Thursday April 16 2009 02:00:00 PM
Surf spot: Lances left, Indonesia
Session's Rate:
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 1.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: SuperFish 7S
Fins: Quattro
Weather and water temp: Sunny, 30°c !
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
Waves Shape:
- One peak
Description:
Not in good mood. Tired...
Buddies:
Created: Monday April 27 2009 12:09:36 PM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 12:09:36 PM
Hits: 1098
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