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Surf session counter: 6
Friday May 16 2008 01:00:00 PM
Created: Saturday May 17 2008 11:51:51 PM
Modified: Saturday May 17 2008 11:51:51 PM
Thursday February 21 2008 09:00:00 AM
Took a friend down to learn some bodyboarding basics in the beach break at La Isla. Had a good time and we both caught quite a few waves. Didn't hit the sand too hard, but certainly had some solid wipeouts. Buddy bloodied up his knee with a couple scratches in the sand, but no big deal. Nice clean water other than the human trash in it (plastic bottles, bags, etc).
Ate some sand and such, but caught plenty of waves. Going to take him out away from the beach next time...
Created: Friday February 22 2008 03:47:45 AM
Modified: Friday February 22 2008 03:49:02 AM
Sunday January 20 2008 05:30:00 PM
Checked out the surf earlier in the day, but due to it being a Sunday, every decent spot was over crowded. Decided to wait until around 5pm when most of the Sunday crowd heads back to Lima. Was looking for somewhat of a beginners spot for practicing with my longboard. La Isla had too many waves running into each other, so you'd get 2-3 waves all packed together within 5 meters of each other (so much for 15 period).
The best looking spot I found at 3pm was the small south point break at Caballeros, but when I returned at 5pm it was flat. So I headed back to La Isla. The waves weren't too impressive (high tide) but we decided to head down and just hope that something started up. I'm not quite ready to get out in the central reef break with the larger swells, so I decided to try the point break along the north shore. I swam out a bit early because some lady wanted me to tell her kids to come in so they could leave.
Anyhow, I get out there and I guess the kids caught a wave in, because they were gone. I got lined up to catch some waves, but there weren't any ridable waves. While I wait, I constantly get pulled out with the current along the rocks. With the bodyboard and fins it wasn't much of a problem, just a little extra kicking. But with the longboard in the current, plus the tide starting to go out, it was an uphill battle. I tried to swim around the rip, but it not only pulled me out but also towards the rocks. Eventually I got out away from the rocks enough to get around them, but it took me over an hour of non-stop paddling to get back in to the shore.
Great arm work out I guess, but certainly not a real good spot for me yesterday. Finally when I got back to the shore and was totally worn out, the waves started to break... ugh! While paddling in there were no waves to ride back in and after I got in there are beautiful 5-8 foot waves.
End result is that I'm going to have to find somewhere else to practice the basics of my longboard. Playa Norte and La Isla aren't really working well (better for shortboards or bodyboards). I don't really want to go to the Costa Verde because of the pollution and all of the rock beaches. If anyone can recommend a good beginners break south of Lima that has a sandy beach, I'd love to hear it.
Created: Monday January 21 2008 04:35:54 PM
Modified: Monday January 21 2008 04:35:54 PM
Thursday January 17 2008 03:00:00 PM
Took out the longboard for another session. Sprained my ankle a couple weeks ago and Doc said not to stand up surf until the 18th. So mostly just worked on paddling and such. Did catch one decent wave that was a good deal of white water, but managed to stand up on my own for the first time.
The point break wasn't doing much (small SW swell) and was crowded, so I paddling out a bit to the middle area of the reef break and tried to catch the edge of a few waves for practice. Wasn't crowded there at all, pretty nice area where you can find a 'safe zone' where it gets deep and the waves back off, before breaking again a bit futher in. There is a lot of current though, so just 'sitting' in one spot waiting for a good wav takes a bit of paddling, otherwise it will pull you into the main impact zone.
Looking forward to getting back out here as I gain experience since this wave is so consistant. For now it's nice when the swell is small and the other local areas are either crowded or unsurfable.
Created: Friday January 18 2008 06:59:50 PM
Modified: Friday January 18 2008 06:59:50 PM
Monday January 14 2008 05:00:00 PM
This was my best surf session yet this year. The waves were much larger than last week (6-9 foot swells, 13s period). Playa Norte was pretty sloppy so we went to La Isla which was great (low crowds on a Monday). Kon Tiki was huge (not quite ready for that yet) and La Isla's point break was consistent all afternoon. I thought that I saw Anali Gomez (young Peruvian surfer) but couldn't confirm it. Anyhow, I got in a solid 2 hours in the water (bodyboard) and caught a good 5+ waves. My bottom turn was a bit rusty so things started out a bit ugly. I was shooting out front and unable to really get in the tube, then I had to wipe it to avoid the rock wall. By the end of the day my bottom turn had progressed a bit but it still needs work. Best workout of the year yet.
Created: Tuesday January 15 2008 02:14:31 PM
Modified: Tuesday January 15 2008 02:14:31 PM
Monday March 5 2007 03:00:00 PM
After a few visits to Playa Norte, I decided to walk over to La Isla to check it out. Had lunch at one of the places in front of the beach and sat upstairs to check out the waves. There were a lot of children catching the small shore break with bodyboards.
Out about 40m from there was a nice right that breaks away from a bunch of rocks near the boardwalk area. There were a good deal of surfers in this area and some of them were able to catch the wave all the way to the beach, a nice ride. The only problem was that they had to dodge about 50 bodyboard/surfers in the way, and then at the beach there were tons of kids. I saw multiple collisions and many more near collisions. Lots of kids with very sharp pointed boards who didn't care who was in front of them. One Brazillian surfer returned to the hotel with a decent hole in his back from getting rammed by a sharp board.
Out a lot farther there appeared to be a reef break that looked pretty big and fun (Kon Tiki), but was a bit too much for me. You can enter near the beach (long swim) or you can enter up the boardwalk a ways near where the rocks jut out into the water (good swimmers only, lots of rocks).
The shore break was pretty fun with the bodyboard. It's easy to eat sand though. Huge beach area with few rocks. Waves closed out pretty quick here though.
The second area is where I spent most of my time and had a blast. I was able to avoid getting hit by other people (had to bail and duck under the water a few times). Lots of competition for waves but I was able to catch my share.
Nice beach area to take a break on between sessions (though crowded in summer). Local shops/restaurants with fresh fish, cold drinks, ice cream, etc. Not sure how busy this area is during other parts of the year, but the city is settled by a good deal of permanent residents, so it's not a total ghost town.
Created: Saturday March 24 2007 05:32:59 PM
Modified: Saturday March 24 2007 05:35:30 PM