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Surf session counter: 1043
Wednesday December 4 2013 06:38:44 AM
Created: Wednesday December 4 2013 06:41:24 AM
Modified: Wednesday December 4 2013 06:41:24 AM
Sunday August 18 2013 04:41:14 PM
Well too small to shortboard, so I grabbed an old foamboard out of my garage and used that. Really fun, vibe is great. Everyone is having a good time, no wave fighting, just good vibes. Went surfing until 8 at night, best waves were at night when there were only a couple others out and the size went up too about 4 feet. Did some cruisy turns and drops. One of my favorite sessions.
Created: Tuesday August 20 2013 04:46:53 PM
Modified: Tuesday August 20 2013 04:46:53 PM
Wednesday July 3 2013 12:09:19 AM
Created: Wednesday July 3 2013 12:09:40 AM
Modified: Wednesday July 3 2013 12:09:40 AM
Wednesday May 1 2013 04:38:03 AM
Got there for the incoming tide (a few hours before high tide). I think I've discovered that I like it better than high or outgoing tide. More waves in many spots and less crowding in the popular spots.
I'm still learning so I managed to catch a few and get my feet on the board. Still not 100% upright yet. But determined... :)
Did get hit by a wall on my last wave. I had to spin fast or get clobbered as I saw it grow fast. Didn't quite have enough momentum and it tried to flip me. I managed to push up enough to keep on my board... but it ended up a beachbreak by the time it broke.. so no visibility.. just shit loads of sand. I managed to walk out of the water before the next break came and figured it was my sign to take a break. The whole patch sat flat after that one... so I called it a day. Only saw a few more rollers come in after that when I got changed and came back down to be a spectator.
Saw one guy get a good head gashing over in the Jetty. His head dented the crap out of the rail on his beautiful custom board. He was more worried about the board then the blood gushing down his head. lol Funny thing is I'd be exactly the same way about my board. ;)
Created: Thursday May 2 2013 04:55:09 AM
Modified: Thursday May 2 2013 04:55:09 AM
Saturday November 10 2012 06:13:20 AM
People, please start making an effort to get out of the way when people are up and riding waves. This starts before the wave is 10 or 20 feet from you. You should be able to tell long before the wave gets to you whether you should go into the whitewater or over the shoulder away to the left of the curl on a right breaking wave. If you can't get clear of the rider's path, and the rideable part of the breaking face, you should be paddling into the whitewater. If you are paddling to the shoulder, you should be paddling AWAY from the rider so that you don't interfere with the rider's cutback, or force them to slow down.
When you position yourself in the water, waiting for waves, if the surfer to your left is better than you, you're in the wrong spot. Skilled surfers sit as deep as their ability allows them to sit without ruining waves for others. If you're less skilled than the surfer to your left, all you're likely doing is paddling for a bunch of waves you don't know yourself whether you'll make (because your ability level's not good) and making life miserable for surfers who would be allowing waves to pass to you if you would just be respectful and sit to their left. You can't get down the line as fast as a surfer with a better skill level than you, and that means you really have no business sitting deeper than them. It's a kook move to even try, so don't be surprised when they guy who surfs pretty well that you've been trying to sit inside of all days yells at you the first chance he gets.
When you surf with consideration for others, everybody gets more waves, especially you if you're not as good as others in the line-up. It's been way out of hand for years, but lately it's been really, really, really bad.
Created: Saturday November 10 2012 06:15:43 AM
Modified: Saturday November 10 2012 06:15:43 AM
Sunday November 4 2012 09:56:12 PM
All time uncrowded session at the cave. Surf was getting bigger to the point where my 5 '11 stopped working.All the local boys were super cool. I loved Maui so much I am now back in California depressed because I scored amazing surf for 3 days at the Bay. The surf is cold, gutless, and small in Cali. I see why surfers from Maui hate California. I wish I had a wave like this in San Clemente. I wish I could live on Maui!
Created: Thursday November 8 2012 10:03:01 PM
Modified: Thursday November 8 2012 10:03:01 PM
Thursday July 26 2012 10:00:00 AM
First time out at Topanga, tiny waves, but some fun on the sets, mix of longboarders and others, the quad fish proved easy for catching waves, even for an unfit old guy like me... Highlights were the dolphins swimming past (as I was getting suited up...) and the nice vibe in the water: people chatting, no aggro, made for a really nice session. Cool locals!
Created: Thursday July 26 2012 10:18:26 PM
Modified: Thursday July 26 2012 10:23:36 PM
Friday July 13 2012 03:01:27 PM
Created: Monday August 20 2012 03:03:07 PM
Modified: Monday August 20 2012 03:03:07 PM
Wednesday May 9 2012 08:51:50 PM
Created: Tuesday May 15 2012 08:54:07 PM
Modified: Tuesday May 15 2012 08:54:07 PM
Thursday March 15 2012 06:15:51 PM
Created: Thursday March 15 2012 06:16:14 PM
Modified: Thursday March 15 2012 06:16:14 PM
Thursday November 17 2011 06:47:14 AM
Created: Thursday November 17 2011 06:51:43 AM
Modified: Thursday November 17 2011 06:51:43 AM
Sunday November 6 2011 01:59:35 AM
I wish I could have gone out earlier before it got so choppy. Still had fun on the single fin, had some pretty long rights with a decent amount of wave to work with. The weather was perfect and the water isn't too cold yet.
Created: Sunday November 6 2011 02:07:48 AM
Modified: Sunday November 6 2011 02:07:48 AM
Saturday October 8 2011 10:59:54 PM
Created: Monday October 10 2011 11:02:25 PM
Modified: Monday October 10 2011 11:02:25 PM
Monday September 19 2011 11:08:50 PM
Created: Monday September 19 2011 11:11:30 PM
Modified: Monday September 19 2011 11:11:30 PM