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Sunday January 12 2014 09:00:00 AM
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: 18
Length of the surf session: 2:15 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'8
Weather and water temp: Air : 5°C. Water : 13°C
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
Today session was excellent. Small check at the cold sunrise. Tibok and the crew weren't still at the parking. I have discovered this :
No need to draw : it was just perfect : a long right was peeling around the sandban, 1.5m to 2m, 200m long. Fast but not too much, an easy paddle. I knew I needed to take my semi gun.
When I saw this, I have started to run back to the parking...
I meet the crew on the parkin. I told them just to avoid the check and to jump into their wetsuit. I discovered that I forgot my leash at home. f... . Hopedully Dahomey gave me one.Then I snaked everybody to be the first in the water : I ran to the beach and was alone at the peak. My first wave was a bomb : a 200m backside rush.
After we were around 20 surfers but there was a lot of waves.
After 2 hours, the wind changed and waves were deteriorated (but still good)
some of other surfers comments :
Das "De bien belles images en tête : une grosse bombe pour Yann (enfin je crois bien que c'était lui), le style appliqué de Occy sur une vague bien ronde,...y'a que Dahomey qui a été très décevant ... non j'déconne. "
Occy "Quelle incroyable matinée !!!
Created: Sunday January 12 2014 07:56:28 PM
Modified: Sunday January 12 2014 07:59:42 PM