|Find the best surf spots||
Saturday December 14 2013 12:00:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 105 min
Surfboard ridden: 7'3"
Weather and water temp: Air : 9°C. Water : 13°C
With Dahomey and his buddy CHris , we hesitated to go to check the ocean : was the swell twisted by the wind ? Will the swell saturate the surf spot ? Finally,
we decided to leave ( well. . Was tried as Dahomey had forgotten his wetsuit and it took him to find a replacement ... ) .
Arrived on the Gurp around 12 pm , it's big but not yet saturated . Noone in the water and plenty of locals watching . The best thing is not to think too much and we went to the water in a semblance of channel . Bingo, we are behind the waves. ! I took one board 7'3" and it seemed like a 6'4 ". I immediately take 2 waves : it is strange because the take-off is engaged but doable. After the size doubled and took at least one third in size! at the end of wave 2 tubes waited for me but it was so big that I was too impressed to try them. Caught in the impact zone , I see CHris who took off late , the wave doubled behind him (go over 2.5m - 3m) and he escaped into the wall. It is hairy. ! Wave grows, adrenaline too . Dahomey get punished on a long take off. Then it's my turn : late take off , the nose straight into the wave and I'm atomized ( I hear my neck vertebrae crack ) . We managed to take a few waves and swell continued to grow . Water movements wer impressive.
A series swept us , it was probably a good 4m: Dahomey and I were in the impact zone . Silence. Me , I admit I was scared. After one three quarter we went out: the session seemed to last only 10 minutes because it was so intense!
Here are some pictures of average quality but representative :
hu, hollow isn't it ?
Created: Sunday December 15 2013 02:42:05 PM
Modified: Sunday December 15 2013 02:42:05 PM