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Session: Huge

Written by yann show yann profile

Saturday December 14 2013 12:00:00 PM

Surf spot: Le Gurp, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 5

Length of the surf session: 1:45 min

Surfboard ridden: 7'3"

Weather and water temp: Air : 9°C. Water : 13°C

Waves height: 3.5m-4.5m / 12ft-15ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- Walls

Description:

With Dahomey and his buddy CHris , we hesitated to go to check the ocean : was the swell twisted by the wind ? Will the swell saturate the surf spot ? Finally, we decided to leave ( well. . Was tried as Dahomey had forgotten his wetsuit and it took him to find a replacement ... ) .

Arrived on the Gurp around 12 pm , it's big but not yet saturated . Noone in the water and plenty of locals watching . The best thing is not to think too much and we went to the water in a semblance of channel . Bingo, we are behind the waves. ! I took one board 7'3" and it seemed like a 6'4 ". I immediately take 2 waves : it is strange because the take-off is engaged but doable. After the size doubled and took at least one third in size! at the end of wave 2 tubes waited for me but it was so big that I was too impressed to try them. Caught in the impact zone , I see CHris who took off late , the wave doubled behind him (go over 2.5m - 3m) and he escaped into the wall. It is hairy. ! Wave grows, adrenaline too . Dahomey get punished on a long take off. Then it's my turn : late take off , the nose straight into the wave and I'm atomized ( I hear my neck vertebrae crack ) . We managed to take a few waves and swell continued to grow . Water movements wer impressive.

A series swept us , it was probably a good 4m: Dahomey and I were in the impact zone . Silence.  Me , I admit I was scared. After one three quarter we went out: the session seemed to last only 10 minutes because it was so intense!

Here are some pictures of average quality but representative :
yb131214gurp (1) hu, hollow isn't it ?

yb131214gurp (2) It was the small waves...

yb131214gurp (3) Check men in the wave face...

Buddies:

Created: Sunday December 15 2013 02:42:05 PM

Modified: Sunday December 15 2013 02:42:05 PM

Hits: 755

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