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Session: Ouups !

Written by yann

Friday December 28 2012 09:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Nez Bayard, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Established

Length of the surf session: 0:20 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'4"

Weather and water temp: Air : 9°C. Water : 12°C

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful

Waves Shape:
- Close out

Description:

All the parameters seemed to ok to surf Nez Bayard : 2.5m W swell, 11s period, SW wind, right time for the tide.

Waves cranked on the reef : big 2m slab with rare opening tubes. it seemed good.

But it was just too big : waves closed out in the middle of the cove where it's usually the channel to paddle out to the reef.

I jumped into the water and I have been caught by this close out. In fact, it was not so difficult to paddle out but I felt a styrong current going out the cove. As I was alone, I didn't took the risk to have a problem and not being able to paddle back

I went out.