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Session: I didn't have the level

Written by yann

Tuesday September 6 2011 01:00:00 PM

Surf spot: La Piste, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 3

Length of the surf session: 1 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'4

Weather and water temp: Air : 25°C. Water: 21°C

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow
- Tubular
- Mutant

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
- Close out

Description:

We went with Mitch to Capbreton - Le Santocha. It was ridiculously crowded. We got some close outs and Mitch some incredible clos out tubes. ON my last one, I took a good right and was pretty proud but I finished near the big blockaus and the nightmare began. The rip was taking you directly under the blockaus and I couldn't escape. I struggled for several minutes to avoid to be blocked uneder the blockaus.

Scary.

After we went to la Piste : the level in the water was just incredible. Long and massive tubes, 360 aerials !

But when I went at the lineup, I realized my level was not enough to surf in a good security here (you can recognize it when you ask yourself at the lineup : "how I can come back to the shore ?" I just came back and stopped the session?. Netherless, the show was incredible.