|Find the best surf spots||
Tuesday August 10 2010 05:30:00 AM
Surf Trip: Japan, Shikoku, 2010 ( 30 July 2010 - 27 August 2010)
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 75 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Weather and water temp: Air: 27°C. Water: 27°C
Kaifu ! It's maybe the mos tfamous japanese spot. It's the rivermouth standard. On a big swell, it's a long hollow right. On a medium or small size, it's a slab on a sand/gravel bar. You have a 1.5m to 2m peak on a no more than 1m deep water: I have done several freefalls and I could stand up on the sand bar with the water at my hips...
There are a fierce competition here with very good / professionnal surfers in the water. Hopefully, the conditions were pretty mellow (for the standard here !!!) and we were only 3 at the beginning.
I took 10 waves but I surfed well only 4 of them. I didn't have this sensation since Tahiti: I didn't have the level to surf this spot well. The waves were too fast and too hollow for me. It was the first time I felt that my wonderful fish Maurice Cole was not the good board: too small and too wide... I felt I didn't have enough engagement. And it was just a bad day for locals!!!
It's just a wonderful incredible wave !
this peak of me shows how incredible is the wave. It's only a small swell, 1,20m, but with the wonderful sandbank and the rip, it turned into a hollow big and powerful wave, very hard to take. If you are a good surfer you can tube at nearly every wave.
Created: Sunday August 29 2010 09:48:41 AM
Modified: Sunday August 29 2010 10:23:42 AM