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Thursday January 7 2010 11:00:00 AM
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 20
Length of the surf session: 5 hours
Surfboard ridden: long board
Weather and water temp: 36
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
- One peak
This was the first time I'd surfed in about ten years. Having been a skater and a snow boarder, I don't have trouble getting vertical, but it took me a few rounds before I was able to control things comfortably.
After about two hours, the waves were ridiculous. The frequency was so short that I was still trying to get over the last before the next hit. I got past the breaks after much effort, watched things a bit, then took my time until I got a decent wave that took me most of the way back in, then started the whole thing over again.
Coming back into surfing here is probably not the best scenario, but it was a beautiful day and a nice beach, even though the crowd was heavy.
Created: Tuesday January 19 2010 11:45:24 PM
Modified: Tuesday January 19 2010 11:45:24 PM