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Thursday November 12 2009 07:00:00 AM
Surf Trip: Big Wednesday ( 05 December 2007 - 05 December 2007)
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: made very few!
Length of the surf session: 1.5 min
Surfboard ridden: 9'0
Weather and water temp: 62F/56F
Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft
- Close out
Dead calm but a storm is coming!
Sunday: Went out at River (most of the coast was walled out). Patchy fog and light onshore, not very big or good ... plus crowded!
Tora Tora Tora or Bomb's away!
"All eyes remained focused on that Gulf of Alaska sytem that is now confirmed to bring us big NW swell over the next few days. Right now, that system is pumping up 35 foot plus seas from a distance of about 1300 nautical miles from SoCal (around 43N, 142W). With seas in its fetch of at least 36 feet, and periods in the ground-swell-long 16- to 18-second range, some powerful swell is being thrown towards the California coast.
But angled from 305-310°, this system is not as ideally placed for SoCal. Being a better angle for areas north of Pt. Conception, Northern and Central California could see face heights reaching 20-25 feet when this swell peaks. For SoCal though, where this angle has to wrap into the region and make it past island shadow size will be smaller -- but still significant. Saturday the 7th, the swell should fill in moving from north to south. Sunday the 8th should then be the full-impact day up to DOH in SoCal, with size slowly backing down Monday, more so though Tuesday the 10th into Wednesday the 11th (Veterans Day)."
Tell me about it! 7:30 AM Bolsa Chica State Beach, Station #20.
Big, chilly, nasty, low tide shifting peaks jacked up with backwash and exploding on the sandbar. Couple of broken boards. This one landed on my head and blew me up!
Thumped and concussed ... Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaagh.
Comment by the Professor:
That's quite a picture of Kevin. If I hadn't seen him out at river this morning, the appropriate caption would have been:
Never seen again ... no remains were ever found!
Witnesses say a porpoise - that appeared to be wearing a wetsuit - was seen cruising the surf line shortly after this picture was taken, and many believe that Kevin has been reincarnated."
Harbour Surfboards (50 years) Annual SurfDay. Bolsa Chica State Beach 11/07/09.
Created: Sunday November 8 2009 06:52:04 AM
Modified: Friday November 13 2009 12:21:58 AM