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Session: Back after three years!

Written by josh_sos show josh_sos profile

Thursday May 28 2009 02:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Del Monte Beach, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Strong

Length of the surf session: 2 min

Surfboard ridden: 7'4

Weather and water temp: Nice Weather and 50-55 degree water

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Bumpy

Description:

My brother came in town from Indiana, and he really wanted to try and surf.  I had been dry for three years due to asthma and fatness.  Got out there and got caught in a rip on a short board at 280 lbs. with no lungs.  Paddled for my life for almost ten minutes.  Meanwhile my Bro. on the 8 ft long board soft top cruised into the shore with two small breaks. Finally I see a fat kid like up to his waist about fifty ft to my right...DUH!!!  Paralell to the shore.  It Kicked in about two minutes I cleared the rip, and found some beach.  I bet I looked hilarious to the guys in line-up.  

Overall I decided to lose weight, start skateboarding again and now I am working on getting a wetsuit and another board.

Once I made it back to shore I spent the rest of the day body boarding in the shore break.  Hopefully it won't be too long until my next session.  Maybe I'll catch a wave this time.  

Buddies:

Created: Saturday June 6 2009 12:47:25 AM

Modified: Friday June 19 2009 07:10:50 PM

Hits: 1086

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