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Session: Only 2 waves !

Written by yann

Saturday May 9 2009 07:15:00 AM

Surf spot: Lafiténia, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 2

Length of the surf session: 1:15 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'8

Weather and water temp: Air: 15°C Water: 15°C

Waves height: 2.5m-3m / 8ft-10ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Hollow
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Bowl

Description:

The swell rose up during the night up to 3m. I went to Guethary but the swell was to big for me: I had only my 6'8"and waves were around 4m... I decided to go to Lafitenia again. When I arrived, there were already 20 surfers in the water and it was big powerful and ugly: 2 to 2.5m on the reef.

The shorebreak was big. After a long paddle I discovered the powerful current which took you directly to the reef if you take a set on your head. But the biggest problem was the high level of surfing in the water: on the 20 surfers, only 5 of them took nearly all the waves... 5 other surfers took some waves and the others just watched. The best surfers were really impressive: late take-of close to the reef, ugly bottom then they started to surf the long wall. They just took all.

I resume: a big swell, a narrow take-off, a dangerous current, really good surfers, a fierce competition, I was backside, it was my second session at this spot and I was hurted few days before at my shoulder...

I have been destroyed by two bigger sets (more than 3 meters). They are one more problem: you hesitate to go near the reef because you are frightened to take a set on your head (one every 30mn...)

I took "only" 2 waves but they were big (not the biggest but some of the solid sets), powerful and it was hard because of the competition. I was really happy to manage to take this.

First lesson: take a gun if you want to surf Guethary

Second lesson: be at your top if you want to compete at Lafitenia on a big swell

to road to Lafitenia