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Session: Ouch!

Written by yann

Wednesday August 20 2008 04:30:00 PM

Surf spot: Ataka, Japan

Surf Trip: Biscarrosse ( 25 April 2008 - 03 May 2008)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Very strong

Nb waves ridden: 12

Length of the surf session: 1:00 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'2'' Aiko, rusty

Weather and water temp: Air: stormy, hot Water: 26°C

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Ledgey
- Powerful
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Bowl
- Close out

Description:

Now the tropical depression was here. And it was big, windy. Nearly it was too much !

I jumped into the water to surf with 2 other surfers: at the peak, I discovered thet the other surfer was brasilian who was working at the local Sony's factory .

Waves were hard to surf and I was backside. But I got some good ones. Imagine a big shore break. You have to pay attention to the tripods. Don't coma at less then 15-20m or you will be projected by the rip into the tripods. Pretty ugly.