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Session: Heavy localism

Written by waterman_75 show waterman_75 profile

Monday May 19 2008 05:31:00 AM

Surf spot: Three's, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 8

Length of the surf session: 1 min

Surfboard ridden: borrowed 9' 0"

Fins: 3

Weather and water temp: warm

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Fast

Waves Shape:
- One peak

Description:

I woke up early this Sunday for my last session in Hawaii after living and surfing here for three years.  Tuesday I fly off to Coco Beach to start a new chapter in my longboard expieriance.  I was the first one out to catch a falling tide knee to rare chest glassy "threes".  After catching a couple and misjugding a couple more the morning crew arrived.  After surfing here for as long as I have, I know that when I am in a new  spot I ensure those that surf there more often get a few good sets in before I start charging again (Haole surfing 101).  However, these guys must have thought me a Kook or truly believed they owned the spot, I got pushed, snaked, and down right run out of the premo outside sets.  I know my role in Hawaiian waters when alone so I moved to the inside where I started catching some smaller and softer, but still fun, waves until I had one die out unexpectedly and I ran the nose of a borrowed board right into a submerged concreate block.... this threw me right into a bed of urchins!  42 spines in the right hand, too many to list in the right foot and a few in the behind left me scrambling to get back on the board.  Unfortunatly the board had a 3" gouge right in the nose.  An hour later after using some tweezers and solar rez all is almost right in the world, my buddy is happy to have his repaired board back with a case of beer as thanks and I am looking forward to surfing my own stick in a friendlier break.  I would like to wish all those that I have had the pleasure of surfing the breaks of Hawaii with a warm and heart felt mahalo for everything.  For those who think they own the breaks.....where is your aloha brudda?  Much love to all and I will be back again.

Buddies:

Created: Tuesday May 20 2008 07:51:46 AM

Modified: Tuesday May 20 2008 07:51:46 AM

Hits: 2314

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