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Sunday April 27 2008 09:00:00 AM
Nb waves ridden: 8
Length of the surf session: 60 min
Surfboard ridden: 7
Weather and water temp: w
Well....Ended up glassing on a big ol Single fin from a long board to replace the one I snapped off on the South Shore.
My first intro to Sunset.
I've checked it before...but twice it has been totally out of control with North Shore Conditions off the richter and no one in the water. In liu I've chosen Haliewa...which aint no joke either when things are like this.
Once, I checked it and it was Sunset proper. The 7' foot board I had was not going to cut it. Just big and gnarly with what looked like a pretty good rip. The wise decision to abort was indeed wise.
Today was perfect....a freak little north swell in the morning. Only 5 guys out. Occassional 10'+ faces. Just a perfect intro for me. Got to see the once in awhile freak sets come through and swing wide and catch everyone off guard. Caught a couple walled up fast ones that got tubular. Caught some lame mushy ones that didn't go anywhere. Also, Sat on the inside and tried out the bowl that breaks right up on the beach. Watch out for that! That inside reef ain't no joke either.
I can see out this places gets moody!
Can't wait to surf it bigger and with the proper equipment.
Created: Saturday April 26 2008 08:50:10 PM
Modified: Saturday April 26 2008 08:50:10 PM