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Saturday July 1 1989 12:00:00 AM
Nb waves ridden: try many
Surfboard ridden: 1
Weather and water temp: perfect for 30 minutes, no wetsuit
My "surfing birthday". I dont remember the day but i sure still remember the feeling! And friends! and the days of that summer after the "birth".
I was 16 years old. My brother 15. Another friend with a "Boogie Board" (that used to be the name of that fucking thing... now is "Body Board"). And two girl friends.
We took a strangers hike from the ferryboat at Setúbal. Walk thru the camping on both sides of the sandroad. It was high tide and we had to wait for about 2/3 hours to see waves breaking on the out side. Then we enter the sea and wait, with water by the waist and standing up with feets on the sand. Every time a wave came we jumped to the board - the timing had to be right - and let the wave take us until we believe it was ok to stand up and ride the foam.
Created: Sunday September 23 2007 03:30:54 AM
Modified: Sunday September 23 2007 03:30:54 AM