|Find the best surf spots||
Tuesday November 30 1999 12:00:00 AM
Nb waves ridden: A few, not enough tho
Length of the surf session: 240 min
Surfboard ridden: My piece of shit longboard
Weather and water temp: Hot, i think it said the water temp was 70 on the lifeguard tower, but it felt a helluva lot hotter than that!
El Porto is fuckin awesome. It's most def. my new favorite spot. Mad props to NBC, the dude who recommended the spot and obviously knows his shit...
I loved it. It started off mellow, i got there just around low tide. But it got pretty gnarly as the day wore on. By dusk, it was shoulder, to head high, then as the sun slipped into the ocean, there were a few overhead sets coming in. After a good four hours straight, I was pretty exhausted at that point, so i just watched people and really studied their take-offs, watched for little nuances when they made the drop and tried to absorb as much as I could. The only prob was, these guys were so good, that they took off with this effortless grace, and ripped that shit up!!!
It was amazing watching these dudes, made me realize how much everyone sucks at the lame spots I frequent, or used to that is...El Porto is the shit, my new spot for sure. i liked the vibe, the waves were just scary enough to force me to step it up a notch, you know push myself outa my comfort zone. With time I think I could really progress there...which I sure as hell intend to do.
Watching those dudes rip and shred the waves with such effotless grace, made me remeber how bad I want to do that someday. Sufing just about every other day has earned me my paddling arms, and I'm gonna start taking my shortie out, and start practicing on that one too. I can paddle just fine, but the pop up is a whole other story. I find that getting through tthe white water is sooo much easier though, on the 6 footer, that it does have its appeal. Anyhow, thats all...
To be Continued...
Created: Tuesday July 3 2007 07:06:26 AM
Modified: Tuesday July 3 2007 07:06:26 AM