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Sunday June 10 2007 03:30:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 90 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'2 pintail
Weather and water temp: Was cold outside but 18 or so in water
The surf was going off when i was here on Saturday avo. It was a solid 4-6' with nice peeling waves coming through.
I stood on the beach (next to the showers) and looked at it for a while. It didnt look too good as it was in a bit of a lull, but as soon as i saw Tom Carroll (yes...the Tom Carroll! - he has his own quiksilver store about 5 mins away) take a great right hander smacking the lip the whole way, i knew it'd be good. Shame that was his last wave, he's a great surfer to watch!!
It was cranking!!
I took a couple out the back, which came all the way through to the shorey. Just as i was paddling out this massive set came through!! It was a solid 8'+!!! and just came thorugh and smashed most of the guys out the back...including some poor cunt losing his board when his leggie snapped!
I was a bit sick of paddling so i sat with one of the locals near the shorey, and took some more rights - just the 2 of us.
The sun slowly came down, and was time to head in. Was soooo bloody cold out of the water, had the heater on the whole way home to warm up my feet!!
Time for a new wetsuit!!
Created: Wednesday June 13 2007 07:20:33 AM
Modified: Wednesday June 13 2007 07:20:33 AM