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Session: Magic Malibu

Written by DrC123 show DrC123 profile

Wednesday April 11 2007 08:30:00 AM

Surf spot: Malibu, United States of America

Surf Trip: Boo Hoo ... you really missed it! ( 11 April 2007 - 07 June 2007)

Session's Rate:

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: lots

Length of the surf session: 150 min

Surfboard ridden: Longboard

Fins: 2+1

Weather and water temp: low cloud 54F water 56F air

Waves height: 2m-2.5m / 6ft-8ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks
- Bowl


Malibu has sand and cobblestone bottom, three point breaks, a pier, a creek and a lagoon.  The outer point has kelp beds and is a hard breaking fast tube that grinds over the reef.  The middle break is a peak than runs into a bowl that runs into a boomerang that runs into a long , long wall ... half way to the pier.



We arrive ... its 8:30AM and its GOING OFF! (See Boo Hoo surf trip.)





 MalibuJean-Luc Roberts


Dora, MalibuPelican Island




You only make one in three waves from either the outside or the middle break but when you do ... WOW!


First point is a perfect wave but you are three deep on a good day!


We paddled out in the small bay in the middle... the tide high enough we didn’t have to rock hop and avoided the rip and the whitewater.


Easy paddle right into the lineup without even getting my hair wet. First wave ... took off on a inside shoulder high peak, crouched low as I got covered up through the bowl, the wave crunching on the tail of my 9’2” Jean -Luc Robert’s performance longboard,  knocking it sideways and then spitting me out onto the shoulder!


Malibu is usually a paper thin, perfect shape, toes on the nose or climbing and dropping wall  ... not today ... never seen it break so hard and fast particularly with an incoming tide ... the section’s were coming down in sheets!  


Next good wave ... same story ... shoulder high inside peak ... but this time feeling more confident and the wave sucking less hit the bowl in a high line, screaming cheater five, yelling at some guy trying to drop in ... made it out to the shoulder my  7” center fin slipping slightly as the wave broke ... couple of turns up the nose again then back and out before I hit a close-out section.


Found the best way back to the line up was take the whitewater to the sand, walk back up to the bay and paddle from there ... otherwise you had a long paddle with a strong rip with heavy sets with guys crashing into each other right in front of you.


 Got caught inside as a beauty a couple of feet overhead swept through ... some bare chest guy in (54F water 56F) air outside got lucky and rode it almost all the way to the pier.  I caught the next big one ... hit the bowl and it stood way up, suspended, towering over me ... would have been epic ... then not one but two guys dropped in on the shoulder and collided ... I bailed out and called it a day ... two and a half hours, cold water, beat up from getting hammered on the ones I didn’t make and shivering even in my 4/3 with the building light onshore breeze.


Stuart being his first time there never really got the feel of the place.  He paddled out to the kelp bed by the outer point and tried to take off inside the hot shot shortboarders .. wrong ... got totally smashed or dropped in on. He finally came back inside and caught a couple of smaller ones. 


Outside guys on modern quad fish were ripping ... pump pump ... cover-up ... pump pump ... tail side ...pump pump ... floater ... pump pump ... boom! On the really clean big sets guys were riding all the way across ... one young kid went way out on the shoulder did a roundhouse cutback and as he hit the lip pulled off two 360’s down the face then pump pump out to the shoulder again!   


The cameras were knee deep on the sand as we dashed across PCH dodging traffic including a Ferrari and a Lambo to Jack In the Box for a late breakfast, laughing as a Mexican nanny struggled with tow head young twins (a boy and girl) outfitted with blue leather reins and both running different directions.


Thank God the road was open on the way home and an hour later hit the sack without even taking a shower for a two hour nap!  Life without a wife!


Created: Tuesday April 10 2007 10:35:23 PM

Modified: Thursday April 12 2007 05:10:58 AM

Hits: 4497

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