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Sunday March 4 2007 04:00:00 PM
Length of the surf session: 60 min
Surfboard ridden: Bodyboard
Weather and water temp: ~75 F, 65 F
I'd been here before, but on a small day. This time it was a good sized day but with a super short period. Looking out from the hotel in the morning it was all foam and quite a mess out there. No one surfing here on a summer morning is rare. Things calmed down a bit by the afternoon so I decided to give it a shot.
While walking down to the beach we saw a couple people carrying just the tips and ends of their broken boards. As I was putting on my fins and such there was one guy searching all over the beach for parts of his board. After 20m or so he finally found a piece.
On a bigger day like this there were some really nice shore breaks on both sides of the beach. The north is the common area which is good on small days, but on this big day the south side had some nice tubular waves, but they closed out a ton. It made for some really entertaining wipe outs. I saw a number of experienced surfers having a lot of problems paddling out because they had to duck dive every 5s!
I finally gave it 2 tries, but all I did was duck wave after wave, sometimes having to stay under for extended time due to 2 waves coming in together. I got the snot pounded out of me and finally cramped up before being able to get out past the break. You better be a hell of a strong swimming to come here on a day with 9-11s period.
Created: Saturday March 24 2007 05:01:23 PM
Modified: Saturday March 24 2007 05:01:42 PM