|Find the best surf spots||
Wednesday May 1 2013 04:38:03 AM
Nb waves ridden: 6
Length of the surf session: 60 min
Surfboard ridden: Funboard
Weather and water temp: 80 out of the water. 50 in it
Got there for the incoming tide (a few hours before high tide). I think I've discovered that I like it better than high or outgoing tide. More waves in many spots and less crowding in the popular spots.
I'm still learning so I managed to catch a few and get my feet on the board. Still not 100% upright yet. But determined... :)
Did get hit by a wall on my last wave. I had to spin fast or get clobbered as I saw it grow fast. Didn't quite have enough momentum and it tried to flip me. I managed to push up enough to keep on my board... but it ended up a beachbreak by the time it broke.. so no visibility.. just shit loads of sand. I managed to walk out of the water before the next break came and figured it was my sign to take a break. The whole patch sat flat after that one... so I called it a day. Only saw a few more rollers come in after that when I got changed and came back down to be a spectator.
Saw one guy get a good head gashing over in the Jetty. His head dented the crap out of the rail on his beautiful custom board. He was more worried about the board then the blood gushing down his head. lol Funny thing is I'd be exactly the same way about my board. ;)
Created: Thursday May 2 2013 04:55:09 AM
Modified: Thursday May 2 2013 04:55:09 AM