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Saturday December 1 2012 09:00:00 AM
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 15
Length of the surf session: 1:30 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'4
Weather and water temp: Air : -5°C (!). water : 14°C
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
It was very very cold. With Loig, we were stuck in the fog. We jumped into the water and discovered powerful waves. Hard to take, fast to surf.
It was so cold that the waves literally smoked !
I took off on a long left : I avoid the tube but the run was so fast ! My best wave.
Then the fog due to the cold came in : it was very hard to paddle baxk as I couldn't see at more than 10m.
After 1h30, the size of swell increased. After a long right, I didn't been able to paddle back and went out. Lack of luck : 15mn after, the fog diseapeared.
Created: Wednesday December 12 2012 08:47:16 PM
Modified: Wednesday December 12 2012 08:57:52 PM