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Thursday August 9 2012 05:30:00 AM
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 75 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Weather and water temp: Air : 29°C. Water: 26°C
The swell was more powerful than yesterday and I was alone. I hesitated to surf alone with my borken leash. Rip were very strong and if I will have a problem, I will be completely alone.
I finally went into the water. Lefts looked beautiful and tubular but I stayed on the right where rips were less strong.I got 10 wave. A pretty mental session...
Created: Sunday October 7 2012 12:35:51 PM
Modified: Sunday October 7 2012 12:39:57 PM