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Tuesday September 6 2011 10:00:00 AM
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 75 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'8
Weather and water temp: Air : 21°C. Water : 21°C
The swell and the offshore were announced. I went to meet Mitch who was there for one week. We went to the beach and ouch : it was big ! I hesitated to go into the water but Mitch just went. I followed...
At the peak, it's impressive : massive ! I took 5 waves, my first was the best and the biggest. My 6'8" was too short, I should have take my 7'3". You need full commitment to take off. It was the most powerful waves I ever took.
2 ghost sets took me underwater : I recognize I was scaried.
I have passed the test and the spot is truly not for beginners.
I took 2 waves like this : ouch...
Created: Sunday September 11 2011 11:05:16 AM
Modified: Sunday September 11 2011 11:05:38 AM