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Thursday April 12 2007 04:30:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: Loads
Length of the surf session: 210 min
Surfboard ridden: 6,0 katana
Fins: FCS h2
It was summer so like always there was f*ck all swell. For some reason (proably global warming) a large storm was brewing nd it was bringing in a fairly sizeable cold front. We figured that we only had 2-4 days before it cleared up. So we went and started checking evry where for surf. There was some fairly decent surf coming in especialy around the reefs (toms especialy) but with winds of up o 30 knots it was totaly blown out. After missing out on the first day nd the end of the storm now in sight we decided that we had to get a surf in.
The winds where going crossshore right from the word go so we rode down to the 3rd groin. Having never seen another surfer out there (due to the shalowness of the banks) we were a bit skeptical about wether we could make it. In the end we went out got pitted few times but once the crowds started coming in we decided that it wasent worth risking snapping our sticks. After that we went and surfed basicaly anything that we could possibly find in the end we tried for a little wave at bennion (boogabox) but the tides where not right nd the reef kept popin up halfway as u were shaked. Even though we still stayed out 4 a little while until some unluck c*nt didnt pll out in time nd snapped his brand new stick. After that we decided to save our sticks nd move on. We went to get lunch nd by the time we where back the winds had massivly picked up back arond to 30 knots again.
Later that day we were walking down past the groin only to find that it was absoltutly going off. We ran back got our boards nd went straight out. There was only 4 others ot but with us that made 8 nd for the groin that can be prety crowded as it only has one peak to take of on. But it didnt matter cos the sets where very regular and very good. Floreate is the perfect spot for filming 2 cos u just stand on the groin nd get the whole wave. The wave itself was perfect. The suprisingly powerfull peak started 5 - 10 metres out from the groin so ud have to eifer take off on an angle nd risk it over the falls or go for a very sketcy bottom trn. Once you made the take you could either pull into a barrel or just get som speed for the nxt section where the wave actually never broke(the break rip). Once out of the barrel u normally had 3-4 sections that you could rip on then the wave would give u this section to bust an air on if you had the skill (and Balls) before it washed basically onto the shore. u then just cold jump back into the break rip and paddle out with ease. This day was absoltly epic as we got som epic footage and a great surf to start of summer with.
Created: Wednesday February 7 2007 08:58:50 AM
Modified: Saturday February 10 2007 01:09:07 AM