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Session: First Time Surfing on Big Island

Written by lilikoihi show lilikoihi profile

Sunday February 27 2011 02:24:01 PM

Surf spot: Kahalu'u, United States of America

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: Not sure

Length of the surf session: 120 min

Surfboard ridden: 9'2" lonboard

Fins: tri

Weather and water temp: high vog. bit hazy. water wasn't warm or cold

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Close out


I rented a board across the street.  There are stairs down to the surf end of Kahalu'i.  The water was pretty clear so you can see a nice channel for paddling out without hitting any of the coral heads.

I didn't surf over the reef where the waves were bigger.  There were a lot of people back there!  Some of the waves were overhead.  Lots of closeouts, but there were some waves with decent faces. I'm just not into that scene.  I'm too old...I paddle like a girl...meh!

Where I was surfing it was easy to catch the reforming waves.  The coral heads are a concern so I made sure I didn't surf too close to the shore or jump off/fall off the board...I am always freaked out that a moray will come out of the coral and bite me since I almost got bitten when I was in Kaua'i.  One time I got a coral cut on my foot and it got infected and I limped around for a month!  I try not to be too concerned about these possibilities, but I just can't help it!

Despite my paranoia, I got a lot of good waves.  The waves peak up quickly because of the coral so you have to ride along the face or try not to drop too fast and end up way ahead of the wave...I saw a lot of people doing this.  The waves reforms a couple times so you can get a pretty good ride...not as long as my favorite spot Canoes but fun. I had to bail on some waves because some surfer students fell off the boards and were flopping around in the soup...oooh, been there done that!  I have empathy so I pull out of the wave and keep a safe distance from them.

A honu popped up beside me with a snorkeler in pursuit (apparently not realizing she was harassing an endangered species.  She left when she realized she was now snorkeling in the middle of the surf area...not a good idea!

I liked checking out the sea life in between the sets.  There are plentiful tropical fish at Kahalu'u.  When I was riding one wave, my board shadow frightened a school of lau'pala.  It loked like an underwater stampede of yellow fish.  There were also uhu and other parrotfish, a bunch of wrasse in various colors, big Moorish Idols (I've never seen them that big) and other fish that I don't know the names of.  The water was so clear and looks like the coral heads are just under the water surface...I kept reassuring myself it was just an optical illusion.

It was a nice mellow surf session for me.  I didn't spend very much time out because   It was a little choppy for about 30 minutes; I kept getting pushed toward the rocky shore. My shoulder started to hurt from constantly paddling to keep way from the rocks.  Sucks to be old, but days like this make it all so worthwhile!


Created: Monday February 28 2011 11:15:51 AM

Modified: Monday February 28 2011 11:15:51 AM

Hits: 5735

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