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Saturday August 7 2010 05:15:00 AM
Surf Trip: Japan, Shikoku, 2010 ( 30 July 2010 - 27 August 2010)
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1:15 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'0
Weather and water temp: AIR:30°C
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
I was visiting Japan since ten days mainly in the mountains of Shikoku, far from the shore, far from internet and the forecasts. It was the first day we were near the shore. We were driving to our hotel at the end of the day when I decided to see the very first spot on the road. I didn't even knew that Monobe was a major rivermouth spot of Japan. I didn't even knew where the wave was.
It situated at the end of the airport. I climbed on the jetty and, surprise, there were waves. Not good waves but punchy waves. No surfers. In fact, it was the beginning of the first typhoon swell of august.
I started to surf, a little afraid because of the very strong rip from the rivermouth. Why there was no surfer ? Waves were very hard to take, steepy, shallow, sand and boulders. Then some surfers appeared. I has been blocked underwater after a reentry : the wave is just powerful !
The landscape of mountains in the summer is incredible. After the session, I realized that this spot is a difficult and famous one and I was lucky to havesome waves here alone.
Created: Wednesday August 25 2010 08:20:17 AM
Modified: Wednesday August 25 2010 09:05:45 AM