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Session: My first 5'8

Written by yann

Sunday July 11 2010 09:00:00 AM

Surf spot: La Jenny, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: No wind

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 2 hours

Surfboard ridden: 5'8

Weather and water temp: Air: 24°C. Water: 19°C

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Tubular
- Mutant

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- One peak
- Multipeaks
- Bowl
- Close out

Description:

I test today my new smallest board: a 5'8" modern fish (a full deep concave) SWOP in remplacement on my 6'0" Maurice Cole. I was pretty worried to test it (would the board as good as the old one ?)

Check the result first: a big thanks to Fredo. It's my most beautiful board ever. I didn't put any pad in order to not hide the drawing. And you know what ? I discover that a pad isn't necessary: I can surf as good with only wax.

The surf: ouch. It was low tide and it was just a right slab ! Not the best day to test a new board. I was backside to complicate my test.

Hard to take, very steepy, short but sooooo powerful, waves were just a square !

And the test was passed: the board was better than the previous one (same outline and volume but 2 inches shorter and smaller fins thanks to the advice of SWOP). It turns faster with a lot of reactivity. I managed to surf backside square waves. I didn't catched any tube because I didn't the level to....

After Teiki came in the water: OUCH, tubes, 1,20 high aerial. I have room for improvement.