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Sunday October 18 2009 02:00:00 PM
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: 2
Length of the surf session: 1 min
Surfboard ridden: 8'6" Longboard
Weather and water temp: 65 F Air, 84F Water
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
I went down to catch a few waves before the football game at 4pm. Got out and found a few waves, but there was a strong drift to the south. So it was a constant fight to stay near the break. The water was at least 20 F warmer than the air, it was pretty freaky. I'm used to surfing in 65-70 F water normally with the air being 70-85 F. It was the first time I've seen the water so much warmer.
The wind was howling offshore and with the cold temp my head got cold real fast. Some dunks in the warm water took care of it though and it was certainly a lot better than surfing in 58 F water.
There were tons of small green fish near the beach and out in the lineup. After I had been out for almost an hour, I was paddling when I saw a 4 ft shark thrashing around the surface about 20 yards from me. He was tearing into some of those green fish.
I was happy that they were keeping him busy, but I didn't feel like getting in his way, even if he was fairly small. So I took the next wave into the shore.
Maybe he was good luck? My team had a huge win after my swim with the shark.
Created: Saturday October 24 2009 01:51:56 AM
Modified: Saturday October 24 2009 01:51:56 AM