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Wednesday June 17 2009 06:30:00 AM
Surf Trip: In the early morning rain ... ( 02 March 2009 - 03 March 2009)
Nb waves ridden: Lots
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: 9'0" Quad
Weather and water temp: 62F/58F
Update: BIG MONDAY 6:30 AM DST "Ray Bay" San Gabriel river mouth, Seal Beach. No wind, glassy conditions and a big south swell pumping from 180 degrees. Its low tide and lines are breaking all the way from "Barracuda's" at the north break wall across middles, past "Crabs" at the south jetty. Sometimes the stars align perfectly, the 180 degree swell angle threading the needle past Santa Catalina island to allow a direct hit at Ray Bay while a few miles south its either walled out or 2-3 feet!
Breaking in three separate peaks and occasionally hooking up all the way. You had to get lucky and pick the right wave, you didn't make them all but the ones you did were the ones you remember! Strong rip currents sweeping you south and out to sea at Crabs and north into the breakwater and down river at Cuda's. Caught a big left at Cuda's and got stuck inside, had to let the white water and current pull me over to middles and paddle out from there.
My two best waves were a head high stand up barrel from middles across the low tide suck up at Crabs barely making it as the wave pounded the tail of my board knocking it sideways, and my last wave!
Even though I was riding my 9'0" Quad with a thruster set up, by 10 AM after three hours, was getting pretty tired. I decided to sit outside and wait for a big set for my taxi ride in.
Sat out there for a long time, nothing, starting to get really crowded (like 60 people stretched across the bay) the tide coming in the a sea breeze coming up. Had almost given up when I saw Deon, one of the SUP guys start stroking for the horizon. My patience paid off ... here they come, mountains rolling in!
Everyone scratching outside; paddled over the first three, each one bigger than the last, saw the SUP Deon start stroking into the shoulder of a monster. Paddled into position, up the feathering peak spun around and pushed over into a late takeoff. Took the drop, hard off the bottom, back up the face and snap off the top, just making it through a big section.
Flying down the line I saw two beginners floundering inside, one guy sitting with his back to the wave, oblivious to the 18 wheeler barreling down on him! Luckily the wave was big enough I was able to go up and over their heads. No idea what happened to them must have got really pounded. As I blew through the suck up I caught up to and was now drafting the SUP in front of me ... “Keep going” ... I yelled.
We cruised together across the wall with more beginners inside scattering inside like a school of fish in front of us. Still gliding along in the high line past the rocks at Crabs, he pulled out and I rode it all the way to the sand, almost to 2nd Street!
Sunday 'Ray Bay': June Gloom, with light onshore. Waist to chest high SSW swell running with an incoming tidal push. A cold water up-welling from offshore storms has dropped sea temps to 58F plus a cool 'Catalina Eddy' sea breeze means put away the spring suit for now! Steep take off on the peak at Middles work the boomerang across the wall then up the nose on the inside sandbar by Crabs.
Don't put your feet on the bottom ... Mr Stingy and his buddy's are everywhere!
Gangrene from a Stingray hit:
"If the antibiotics don't work its got to come off"
Created: Saturday June 13 2009 07:47:12 PM
Modified: Saturday June 20 2009 04:24:00 AM