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Thursday May 28 2009 02:00:00 AM
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Length of the surf session: 120 min
Surfboard ridden: 7'4
Weather and water temp: Nice Weather and 50-55 degree water
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
My brother came in town from Indiana, and he really wanted to try and surf. I had been dry for three years due to asthma and fatness. Got out there and got caught in a rip on a short board at 280 lbs. with no lungs. Paddled for my life for almost ten minutes. Meanwhile my Bro. on the 8 ft long board soft top cruised into the shore with two small breaks. Finally I see a fat kid like up to his waist about fifty ft to my right...DUH!!! Paralell to the shore. It Kicked in about two minutes I cleared the rip, and found some beach. I bet I looked hilarious to the guys in line-up.
Overall I decided to lose weight, start skateboarding again and now I am working on getting a wetsuit and another board.
Once I made it back to shore I spent the rest of the day body boarding in the shore break. Hopefully it won't be too long until my next session. Maybe I'll catch a wave this time.
Created: Saturday June 6 2009 12:47:25 AM
Modified: Friday June 19 2009 07:10:50 PM