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Wednesday May 27 2009 11:07:56 PM
Surf Trip: Spring Break ( 28 March 2008 - 28 March 2008)
Nb waves ridden: Lots
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: 9'0
Weather and water temp: 62F/72F
Memorial Day: Fun session in the River. Early morning, waist to chest high with glassy conditions and an incoming tide, but super crowded due to the holiday weekend. Bunch of groms out there having fun (remember when a good session was standing up) even making up names for waves. I caught Bill and did a Kill Bill until my single 8" custom wooden pivot fin snapped clean off at the base! My Auz EPS/Epoxy 9'0" Quad has 5 Future Slots and the wood fin broke on the rear pin that holds it in and went deep six!
Paddle in no way why not go ... no fins! Short rides but slip sliding fun! Even catching a wave is a challenge as the board gyrates back and forth as you paddle. Once you take off its hard to keep the board moving across the face without sliding out by just using the down rail by the tail. Turning is a problem and it seemed that when I pressured right the board went left. As the waves hollowed out on the inside sand bar I found myself going backwards, tail first, almost pulled off a 360 but as soon as the white water hit the board skated out from under me (like standing on a Banana peel)! Stayed out over an hour riding without a fin to the amazement of the kids.
Created: Wednesday May 27 2009 11:45:22 PM
Modified: Thursday May 28 2009 06:46:03 PM