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Monday May 4 2009 02:08:29 PM
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: heaps
Length of the surf session: 2 min
Surfboard ridden: Xanadu
Weather and water temp: perfect
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
- One peak
- Close out
all the charts said that there was no swell but we went down any way. when we saw rafts we were frothing because there was some swell but the banks were gutted so we went to club cap expecting it to be the same. but when we got to the check point we saw a set come through and it was nuts. 3 mabye 4 waves that broke from way out side the groyne and wrapt all the way through the the inside peak and just stop and then shut down 2 metres from the shore. top to bottem barrels all the way.
i was in my wet suit and out the back in 4 seconds flat. what was to happen next will be in my memory til the day i die.
first wave that came through i take but my line is to high, the lip hits me in the back and i belly flop and just escape hitting the bottem. i come up just in time to see my best mate dissapear under a curten that was two foot thick. it just sollowed him whole.
then a real wide set came through and i just made it to the shoulder and i swing right and pull in to a hugestand up pit and get mowed down. icome up and paddle back out and get the next one and try a huge re-entry but im on a twin fin for the first time and loose control this time my head does find the sand which by this stage is acting as concrete.
jacob makes what is probaly the biggest wave of the day so far but the swells building and where charging harder then we ever hhave done at this place. and where all by our selves.
i take a inside one and it wedges up nicely i come off the bottom and pull a horizontal floater but the back wash hits me in the face and i just got pounded. i dont know what jacob's doing and i couldent care less.
on the next one i dont make the drop. and i paddle out a bit wider and sit up about 30 seconds later i just this screaming from the shore i looked up and it was jacob yalling to g i lok around and the wave of the day was there and i went for it. i got up under the lip and set my rail hopping for a barrel but i can see it was crumble i turn down and accelrate in to three or four hard turns. and just step off on the sand.
next one i got took me over the falls we got a few more before the sun went downbut we had to go home
for me a good day down there is like catching up with an old friend silghtly changed but some how diffrent i havent seen her turn on for almost six months but good things come to those wait
Created: Monday May 4 2009 01:10:23 PM
Modified: Monday May 4 2009 03:43:48 PM