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Saturday April 25 2009 07:30:00 AM
Surf Trip: Spring Break ( 28 March 2008 - 28 March 2008)
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: Lots
Length of the surf session: 3 min
Surfboard ridden: Quad
Weather and water temp: 72F/68F
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
When its 'Springtime in LA' and 102F! Global warming indeed, last week we broke record temperatures in SOCAL. Perfect 'Blue Bird' conditions with morning light offshore's but guess what ... dead flat!
Things have improved the past couple of days with a good 190 degree southern hemi swell and 300 NW pushing sets up to head high or a little better. Conditions however are not as good, light morning onshores with fog and heavy overcast.Things have improved the past couple of days with a good 190 degree southern hemi swell and 300 NW pushing sets up to head high or a little better. Conditions however are not as good, light morning onshores with fog and heavy overcast.
Thursday rode the Kingfisher with a Quad setup ... OK for the bigger waves, tracking through sections and stable noserides but don't like the arc turns. No pivot or thrust off the bottom. Friday set it up with just the 4.6" outside Future's and a 4" trailer, much better!
Saturday morning the swell was still running overhead on the sets with an incoming low tide making it a long, long paddle with lots of white water. Crossed up mix of 190 southern hemi and 300 NW with some lump, bump and cross chop from a light onshore. Took my 7'2” MR SuperFish so it was a bit of a struggle getting over to Cuda's by the north wall. Super crowded with everyone from beginners SUP's to shortboarders from the OC as Huntington Pier was walled out.
Some narly left handers into the breakwall that folded in on themselves while jacking up from refraction. Was sitting outside in perfect position when a huge set came rolling through. Paddled over to the middle and waited for the third monster peak. Got it, pushed over, hit the bottom and smacked out and up. Holding my breath, crouched deep in its belly as it reared over me. I could hear the crowd caught inside yelling to get my attention and not run them down!
All I could see in the corner of my eye was colors, black/white/yellow/blue as I flew by... like a running back in football running to daylight. Hit the shoulder with a sigh of relief and a gasp for air!
Fight or Flight:
Late one warm spring afternoon with a light southerly offshore breeze paddled out at Kirra Point, think 3rd point Malibu. It was mid week and not too crowded. Surf was a solid shoulder to overhead and breaking cleanly on the rock bottom out on the point before they built the groin. As the swell wrapped around inside it began to section and suck up as it hit the foot or so of water over the inside sand bar in front of the rocks. Kirra is an extremely hard breaking, fast wave that speed up faster and faster as it wraps and boomerangs - you need sky rockets up your but to make it all the way!
Was picking the smaller sets that lined up outside shooting down the line and kicking out as they hit the inside section to avoid getting caught in the nasty rip that sucks you north whenever its gets any size. Ready to go in I waited for a final big set. Here it came, took off, hit the bottom, turned fast, trimmed and crouched low as the lip came over my head. Oh, No too late to kick out, I was committed! Grabbed the rail staring at the nose of my board and the discolored water being sucked up from the sand bar. I hope I don’t hit a rock or I’m a goner! Normally when you get a cover up or tube its short and sweet, you can see the shoulder in front of you and its just a matter of making it or not.
On this wave I was already deep in the tube when a big section just closed right over me. There was no daylight just green sandy water. I guess the so called “fight or flight” survival reflex must have kicked in, time slowed down to a crawl. I stopped breathing, running on pure adrenaline, the roar of the wave became silent, my eyes focused into tunnel vision. Seems as I could even feel the sticky wax on my board as I shot like a shell down the barrel of a cannon. It seem to go on and on forever, my body making minute adjustments on auto pilot to keep the board on track suddenly I saw a small patch of light ... was I going to make it ... yes the hole opened up to a green shoulder but just for an instant ... then I saw another big section rearing up ... I power turned from the bottom at full speed out and over the top ... exhausted!
Fight or Flight:
“If a stimulus is perceived as a threat, an intense and prolonged discharge of the locus ceruleus activates the sympathetic division of the autonomic nervous system This activation is associated with specific physiological actions in the system, both directly and indirectly through the release of epinephrine (adrenaline) and to a lesser extent norepinephrine from the medulla of the adrenal glands. The release is triggered by acetylcholine released from preganglionic sympathetic nerves. The other major factor in the acute stress response is the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis.
When in the bloodstream, epinephrine rapidly prepares the body for action in emergency situations. The hormone boosts the supply of oxygen and glucose to the brain and muscles, while suppressing other non-emergency bodily processes (digestion in particular).It increases heart rate and stroke volume, dilates the pupils, and constricts arterioles in the skin and gastrointestinal tract while dilating arterioles in skeletal muscles. It elevates the blood sugar level by increasing catabolism of glycogen to glucose in the liver, and at the same time begins the breakdown of lipids in fat cells. Like some other stress hormones, epinephrine also has a suppressive effect on the immune system."
Acceleration of heart and lung action
Paling or flushing, or alternating between both
Inhibition of stomach and upper-intestinal action (digestion slows down or stops)
General effect on the sphincters of the body
Constriction of blood vessels in many parts of the body
Liberation of nutrients for muscular action
Dilation of blood vessels for muscles
Inhibition of Lacrimal gland (responsible for tear production) and salivation
Relaxation of bladder
Evacuation of colon
Inhibition of erection
Auditory Exclusion (loss of hearing)
Tunnel Vision (loss of peripheral vision)
Acceleration of instantaneous reflexes
Created: Saturday April 25 2009 06:37:18 AM
Modified: Monday April 27 2009 01:44:59 AM