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Saturday April 4 2009 07:00:00 AM
Nb waves ridden: 25
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: xanadu
Weather and water temp: not a cloud in the sky and warm
got there at about 6am and it was so small that it was bearly breakng so we went to check club cap but there was no banks so we headed back to rafts. i paddled out and took a few waves and headed to the other side os the reef got a little rail grab barrel on a left, saw a set come through on the other side and went back about 5 miniutes later the 2 foot day was well overhead. took the second wave of the first set and nailed my forhand hacks and and did a masive kick out just in time to see some poor basted go over the falls and it just kept getting better.
until about the 6th set (the biggest of the day) came through. i wasent keeping an eye on the drift coz i was chatting to some bloke when he turned around and started going i saw the wave coming anf figurerd i was safe, but in classic rafts fashion the wave jacked up and sucked all the water off the reef under me. at this stage i was shitting brick's(also making the reef shallower) there was no way out so i turned towards the shore and sprint paddled(it fucken hut).
took a few more waves got barreld and distroyed the sets and went home
Created: Monday April 6 2009 10:20:36 AM
Modified: Monday April 6 2009 10:20:36 AM