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Friday January 30 2009 02:30:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: 8
Length of the surf session: 120 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'8"
Weather and water temp: Air: 13°C Water: 12°C
The swell was big. And all the sandbanks have moved because of the tempest Klaus which have devastated my region. I found a solid swel. As the tide was low, I paddled outside and get some fun rights, powerful, hollow, but not too hollow.
After one hour, as the tide rose up, I came to beach. But the nightmate began: The waves were only big, thick close-outs. I caught only one wave more.
I was smashed by big sets...Exhausted I went out. I saw a beautiful peak: I jumped into the water again. I get smashed harder than before and didn't managed to go outside.
I came back. Then I saw surfers 500m up to the north on the most incredible right I ever seen here in ten years ! A guy (a really good surfer) caught a big stand-up tube, stayed 5sec completely hidden by the tube then went out !
I was too tired to go again...
Created: Saturday January 31 2009 06:40:41 PM
Modified: Saturday January 31 2009 06:40:41 PM