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Session: Ouch

Written by yann

Friday January 30 2009 02:30:00 PM

Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 8

Length of the surf session: 2 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'8"

Weather and water temp: Air: 13°C Water: 12°C

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast

Waves Shape:
- Walls
- Multipeaks

Description:

The swell was big. And all the sandbanks have moved because of the tempest Klaus which have devastated my region. I found a solid swel. As the tide was low, I paddled outside and get some fun rights, powerful, hollow, but not too hollow.

After one hour, as the tide rose up, I came to beach. But the nightmate began: The waves were only big, thick close-outs. I caught only one wave more.

I was smashed by big sets...Exhausted I went out. I saw a beautiful peak: I jumped into the water again. I get smashed harder than before and didn't managed to go outside.

I came back. Then I saw surfers 500m up to the north on the most incredible right I ever seen here in ten years ! A guy (a really good surfer) caught a big stand-up tube, stayed 5sec completely hidden by the tube then went out !

I was too tired to go again...

the outside bank