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Session: Good and hollow

Written by yann

Sunday January 11 2009 02:30:00 PM

Surf spot: Le Pin Sec, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Glassy

Nb waves ridden: 17

Length of the surf session: 2 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'1

Weather and water temp: Air: 8°C, Water: 12°C

Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Hollow

Waves Shape:
- Bowl

Description:

I went to Le Porge but it was only a big close-out . I checked to the south and to the north: nothing, the period of the swell was too long.

I went to Le Pin Sec. It was a good option. I have surfed a strange bowl. it was a left which started very slowly, powerless (I even took of in the foam, in the close out, wait to be at the bottom of the wave before to stand up), then a long, hollow bowl started. I get several cover up with a lot of speed !