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Sunday January 11 2009 02:30:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: 17
Length of the surf session: 120 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'1
Weather and water temp: Air: 8°C, Water: 12°C
I went to Le Porge but it was only a big close-out . I checked to the south and to the north: nothing, the period of the swell was too long.
I went to Le Pin Sec. It was a good option. I have surfed a strange bowl. it was a left which started very slowly, powerless (I even took of in the foam, in the close out, wait to be at the bottom of the wave before to stand up), then a long, hollow bowl started. I get several cover up with a lot of speed !
A great session.
Created: Sunday January 11 2009 06:37:24 PM
Modified: Monday January 12 2009 10:08:09 AM