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Tuesday November 18 2008 01:25:56 AM
Surf Trip: Hot August nights ... ( 17 August 2007 - 17 August 2007)
Nb waves ridden: dozen
Length of the surf session: 120 min
Surfboard ridden: 9'2
Weather and water temp: 78F/62F
The "Wind in the Willows" indeed. The past few days we have had a fire-storm in Southern California fanned by howling offshore Santa Sana winds blowing from the deserts and funneled through the mountain passes and canyons.
"Winds had calmed Monday morning, allowing firefighters to make gains on two raging wildfires that destroyed hundreds of homes and forced thousands of residents to flee. Wind gusts had peaked at more than 70 MPH at the height of the fires over the weekend, but on Sunday they had weakened to about 25 mph, the National Weather Service said. The fires that started Thursday night and burned in Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, Orange, San Bernardino and Riverside counties, have burned nearly 41,000 acres or 64 square miles. A major aerial attack on Sunday raised containment to 40 percent. More than 26,000 people had evacuated from Orange County alone.
Meanwhile, a 10,000-acre fire that hit hard in the Sylmar area of northern Los Angeles on Saturday had moved into the Placerita Canyon area of the rugged San Gabriel Mountains and was still burning vigorously, but well away from homes. It was also 40 percent contained. The Santa Barbara-area fire that swept through tony Montecito has burned 1,940 acres and was 95 percent surrounded Monday.
Far away from the flames, the smell of smoke pervaded metropolitan Los Angeles. Downtown skyscrapers were silhouettes in an opaque sky. Ash fell like rain at the beach and concerns about air quality kept many people indoors. Organizers on Sunday canceled a marathon in suburban Pasadena where 8,000 runners had planned to participate.
Officials warned of another bad air day on Monday, and classes were canceled at dozens of schools near the fire zones in Orange County."
Went out at Bolsa Chica Saturday, wind was just howling offshore with a curtain of blowing spray. Combined with an incoming massive 7 foot high tide conditions were sketchy to say the least! You had to paddle like crazy, take off deep and critical then the backwash jumped up the face into a vertical drop!
Got a couple of nice tubes with the wind holding the door open to blue sky, or should I say, red sky. On one backhander looked out and saw yellow sand. I had ran out of ocean. Aaaaaaaaaaaagh!
Caught a big outside peak, faded into it, then hard off the bottom staying low out of the wind and got bounced across the side chop on the face like a Model T-Ford on a dirt road!
This morning the wind was gone but the tide was still huge. Caught a couple of nice solid left hand peaks, critical take-off then pump hard as the backwash jacked up the wall. On my last wave got a nice nose ride on my forehand (without blowing it) been riding backhand all summer at 'The River' backpeddled, then stalled the tail as the wave held up all the way to the sand. Stood right on the back of the board, leaned back, pushed the nose up out of the water, took the drop and rode the board fin dragging all the way up the tide surge to the dry sand then stepped off ... I was impressed ... but a young girl on the beach just looked at me like I was nuts!
Created: Tuesday November 18 2008 01:47:58 AM
Modified: Tuesday November 18 2008 06:33:12 PM